FASHION /
MEN
August 3, 2015
SHIPS | Buyer's Feature | The thought behind exclusive collaborations: "A new classic, loved for years."
SHIPS
SHIPS Buyer Wataru Shinohara
Our Bespoke Philosophy: "A New Classic That Will Be Loved for Years to Come"
SHIPS is currently hosting the "Levi's Vintage Clothing Fair" at its Ginza store until October 5th (Wednesday), showcasing recommended models including special items exclusive to SHIPS. The theme for men's this autumn/winter is "A Touch of Wool." Wataru Shinohara, the buyer for men's casual wear, states, "This season, the theme is a fusion of luxurious comfort, inspired by the warmth of high-quality natural materials, and British prep. We're focusing on an elegant, comfortable feel and wearability, with medium to low-gauge knits made from natural wool, offering both imported and original items."
Text by OPENERSPhotos by Emiko Hara
Proposing "New Classics" Through Exclusive Bespoke Creations
"In casual wear, Europe and America are paying attention to bespoke items and brands originating from Japan. Creations with meticulous attention to detail and refined coordination are leading the world," says Shinohara. Among these, he focused particularly on "authenticity" in his buying this season.
"The significance of bespoke is to leverage truly classic brands that have been loved for a long time, add SHIPS' essence, create excellent combinations without compromising the brand's identity, and turn them into new classics that can be worn indefinitely. In the world of men's fashion, the biggest theme is how to make authentic, enduring items fit into the modern era, and that's the most fascinating part of the job," he explains.
Purchase01
"Barbour" Slim Fit BEDALE
Barbour Fair from October 6th (Thursday) to 16th (Sunday)!
"The highlight this autumn is the slim-fit version of Barbour's iconic 'Bedale' model. The slim-fit model, which sold out immediately upon arrival last year, has been specially ordered in navy, and the zipper has been changed from the usual antique gold to silver, making it a SHIPS exclusive."
"While retaining the original design and details, the fit has been slimmed down (for size 36, chest is -6 cm, waist is -7 cm), resulting in a sharper silhouette than the standard model. The color is a deep navy, close to black, which pairs well with jackets, and it creates a perfect balance with slim trousers."
"Barbour is an authentic British brand, and its signature 'Bedale' jacket is not a fleeting trend but a true lifelong investment. I've been wearing my own Bedale for over a decade, and as the oil naturally wears off over time, it develops a beautiful patina. Furthermore, from October 6th (Thursday) to 16th (Sunday), all SHIPS stores will host a 'Barbour Fair.' Customers who purchase during this period will receive a special garment bag printed with the Barbour logo and royal warrants as a gift. We hope you'll use it in your closet."
"Additionally, from October 6th (Thursday) to 16th (Sunday), all SHIPS stores will host a 'Barbour Fair.' Customers who purchase during this period will receive a special garment bag printed with the Barbour logo and royal warrants as a gift. We hope you'll use it in your closet."
Barbour Slim Fit BEDALE ¥47,250 (SHIPS)
Purchase02
"LAVENHAM" Hooded Vest & Short Duffle Coat
Perfect for SHIPS Customers Who Appreciate Timeless Basics
"Both items are SHIPS exclusives from the esteemed British brand, Lavenham. The vest is a practical and versatile piece for the current season, while the short duffle coat is a popular design that can be worn like a jacket for a sporty look. This bespoke item is based on an existing women's model, with adjusted sizing, making it easy to achieve a compact silhouette. The vest comes in three colors, and the duffle coat in two. These are destined to become new staples for our SHIPS customers who favor timeless pieces."
LAVENHAM Hooded Vest ¥29,400, Short Duffle Coat ¥49,350 (all at SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase03
"SIERRA DESIGNS" Short Parka
Functional and Urban "Midnight Navy" Specification
"This is the iconic short parka from Sierra Designs, made with their signature 60/40クロス fabric. While the brand is often associated with the outdoors, our exclusive SHIPS version reimagines the regular model, which typically features contrasting colors for the outer shell and hood lining. Here, both the outer shell and hood lining are in a deep midnight navy, and all the hardware is black, creating a sharp, modern aesthetic. We've also prioritized American manufacturing. This is our recommended 'sun-scratching bespoke' – addressing every need – for this season, perfect for layering over a jacket or pairing with wool trousers for a stylish contrast."
SIERRA DESIGNS Short Parka ¥39,900 (SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase04
"LONDON TRADITION" Duffle Coat
A Masterpiece Incorporating All This Season's Popular Keywords!
"This season sees a surge in popularity for duffle coats, combining classic toggle closures, a winter marine aesthetic, hooded designs, and a charming wearability. This exclusive piece is from London Tradition, a British factory brand renowned for its duffle coats and peacoats. Made from a compressed boiled wool material that is lighter and easier to wear than traditional Melton, we urge you to try it on. Priced under ¥30,000, its compact fit makes it an item you'll enjoy for at least one season. It's available in navy and grey."
LONDON TRADITION Duffle Coat ¥29,925 (SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase05
"SHIPS Original" Plain Toe Lace-Up Boots
SHIPS MADE IN U.S.A.
"These are original boots meticulously crafted in the USA. The leather used, for both black and burgundy, is from S.B. Foot Tanning Co. in Minnesota, a truly authentic material. The leather sole and Vibram heel add a slightly rugged yet sophisticated adult feel."
"Since last spring, light-soled mountain boots and plain-toe styles have been selling well in casual footwear. However, this design, which can also be worn dressily, offers a fresh perspective."
SHIPS Original Plain Toe Lace-Up Boots ¥25,200 each (SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase06
"WEXLER&CO." Bags
A Bag Brand with Over 100 Years of History in America
"While not widely known in Japan yet, these bags are crafted from luxurious Horween leather by Wexler & Co., established in America in 1909."
"We've carried them at SHIPS since last year. Being made of genuine leather, they are quite substantial, but the rich texture of the leather that deepens with age and the overall aesthetic, with even the brass hardware made in America, are unique to this brand. Among the collection, the pouches are designs developed exclusively for SHIPS."
WEXLER&CO. Travel Bag ¥231,000, Brief Bag ¥189,000, Pouch ¥29,400 (all at SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase07
"NIGEL CABOURN×EDDIE BAUER" Canadian Vest & Skyliner Model
The Appeal of Nigel Cabourn: Brilliant Concepts Driven by Meticulous Execution
"I was truly impressed by the exceptional quality of this collaboration between Nigel Cabourn and Eddie Bauer. These two items were selected from Eddie Bauer's archives and infused with Nigel's distinctive style."
"Eddie Bauer is famous as the brand that first created down wear; without them, down might not exist today. This Canadian vest is made in Canada using Woolrich fabric."
"Nigel Cabourn embodies contemporary Britain. He is a vintage collector himself, and his masterful blend of different eras is remarkable. His brilliant concepts, combined with uncompromising, meticulous creation, are truly outstanding. At SHIPS, we primarily carry items produced in the UK."
NIGEL CABOURN×EDDIE BAUER Canadian Vest ¥82,950, Skyliner Model ¥144,900 (all at SHIPS Ginza Store)
Purchase08
"FELTED TAILORED GARMENTS" Duffle Coat
The Beauty of Unadorned Simplicity
"This is the debut collection from FelteD Tailored Garments, based in Bologna, Italy. I discovered this emerging brand at the White trade show in Milan this season, and it was a significant find."
"The designer, Jonata Malagodi, previously worked at C.P. Company. He begins by creating original blankets, from which he develops pieces like duffle coats. His cutting techniques maximize the potential of the materials, resulting in items that are surprisingly light despite their appearance. The striking patterns and unique designs are highly original, and everything is handmade. I appreciate the unadorned quality – the lack of unnecessary embellishments like linings, and the balance of meticulous details such as the serial numbers."
FELTED TAILORED GARMENTS Duffle Coat ¥81,900 (SHIPS Ginza Store)
Wataru Shinohara
Responsible for buying SHIPS casual wear. This is his third year as a men's buyer, but with six years of experience as a shop staff member and women's buyer, he is highly regarded for his buying and bespoke selections from various perspectives. This season, with "Authenticity" as his keyword, he focuses on "Natural Materials (Wool)" under the theme "A Touch of Wool," presenting items with a warm, autumnal feel.
SHIPS Ginza Store
3-4-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Ryoshin Ginza Building B1-3F
Tel. 03-3564-5547
http://www.shipsltd.co.jp/










