Designers Carrying the Culture of Adolescence

UNITED ARROWS & SONS proposes new men's fashion by combining the “culture” emerging from the streets of today with the “quality” that is one of UNITED ARROWS' DNA. We spoke with Mr. Kogi, who leads the brand, about current men's fashion.

—Your Instagram feed suggests you're very busy.

Work is enjoyable. I've had more opportunities to travel abroad; recently, I saw two people wearing UNITED ARROWS & SONS denim in Bangkok. The number of inbound customers is truly increasing. Even at Asian trade shows, while there aren't many brands I'm buying yet, the quality is steadily improving.

—How do you see the current trends and characteristics of men's fashion?

It's not something that has suddenly become apparent, but designers like Kim Jones at a major fashion house and Umit Benan were influenced by street culture during their adolescence. They are creating with their own unique style while staying true to their respective houses. I'm paying attention to those aspects.

Enjoying Classics from Various Perspectives

—As you often mention, street culture has a significant influence, doesn't it?

Yes. I grew up influenced by street fashion, and after joining UNITED ARROWS, I worked in the casual section, so my life was far removed from tailoring like suits. As I got older and started wearing suits for occasions like weddings, I began to understand the significance of working at UNITED ARROWS.

—So, as you had more opportunities to wear suits, something clicked?

I tried wearing suits from Dior Homme when Hedi Slimane was there, but it was the emergence of Thom Browne that really got me into tailoring. With the advent of styles like Black Fleece and “Luxury Ivy” suit styles, once I understood that “an Ivy League suit can be worn as an extension of casual style,” I found it truly interesting.

—I see. You broke through that barrier.

After that, I came to appreciate the playful suit styles of Atsushi Okubo's “The Stylist Japan.” I think I've finally reached a point where I can enjoy both my love for street style and the tailoring I learned at UNITED ARROWS. I can now view classics from various perspectives.


—What kind of tailored styles do you admire?

The men with suit styles at Pitti Uomo in the past seemed to have a lot of pride and high standards. I like the process of communicating with those individuals, gradually earning their trust, and becoming friends (laughs).

—And that feeling has been sublimated into “POGGYTHEMAN”?

Yes. Rather than analyzing overseas trends, I want to transmit what emanates from us. Currently, I enjoy mixing classic and street elements; wearing a T-shirt with a suit has become commonplace, but going forward, I want to pursue and propose “what to wear.” My generation grew up enjoying the catchy appeal of logos, so I want to feature those aspects.

UNITED ARROWS & SONS
3-28-1 Jingumae B1F-1F, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 12:00–20:00 (Weekdays), 11:00–20:00 (Weekends & Holidays)