A Concept of "Neither Adding Nor Subtracting"

Trygod is a brand that transcends the mindset of giving up before even trying – the thinking that it's unprecedented, impossible to create, or that it must be compromised or categorized. Instead, it moves forward, believing that the works it envisions and desires to wear, inspired by music, cities, art, history, and people, will resonate with others, always breaking down barriers. The encounter between Nobuhiko Kitamura of Hysteric Glamour and Masatoshi Nagase began at Fuji Rock Festival.

──When did "Trygod" start?

NagaseThe brand launched in 2005. Actually, an acquaintance of mine ran a jewelry brand that was struggling at the time. Knowing I was fond of jewelry, he asked me for ideas. I started offering some concepts for designs and the brand's direction.

But in the end, he gave up halfway through and quit. Since things had already started moving, and to avoid causing trouble for various suppliers, I decided to take it on myself, seriously! That's when I really got down to business.

──What was your first design for "Trygod"?

NagaseIt was a simple design that said "Trygod."

KitamuraWith "Trygod," just "God" can have various interpretations, but the moment it became "Trygod," the meaning deepened and makes you think.

──How did you two meet?

KitamuraWe had many mutual friends, but the first time I had a long conversation with Nagase-kun was at Fuji Rock Festival.

NagaseThat's right.

KitamuraThere was a magazine project to do a Hysteric Glamour photoshoot during Fuji Rock, and since Patti Smith was also performing, I decided to go to the venue. That's when Nagase-kun took photos for me. We found cute girls at the venue, asked them, and had them wear Hysteric Glamour. We walked around the venue together (laughs).

NagaseWe did it for two full days. It was an interesting space, with the live performances and the photoshoot mixed together.

KitamuraAnd then, we also met Iggy Pop at Fuji Rock, didn't we?

NagaseJim Jarmusch had introduced me to him before, and you had some business dealings related to merchandise.

KitamuraWhen we met in the dressing room, there were only the three of us.

NagaseYes. For me, he was a god from my middle school days, so to be able to meet him in Japan with you, Kitamura-san, and to have all three of us share common ground felt special and wonderful.

We're making them with all our heart, so please look at the products without preconceptions.

──What was the inspiration behind your collaboration, "Trygod for Hysteric Glamour"?

NagaseWe held a private unveiling in 2005.

KitamuraThat was a wonderful installation.

NagaseThe theme was "The Last Supper," and we presented jewelry on plates instead of food.

KitamuraThe venue was decorated with candles, glasses, and plates, with the jewelry as the centerpiece. I felt a sense of tension, wondering if I was allowed to touch anything. The world they created was so well-defined and superb.

NagaseThank you. It was an honor to have you approach me after that.

KitamuraSo, we launched "Trygod for Hysteric Glamour" without announcing that Nagase-kun was involved.

──Why did you decide not to publicize it?

──How do you create the designs?

NagaseI start with hand-drawn sketches. In the early days, I would draw wondering how a 2D design would translate into a 3D form, and then we would only adopt the prototypes I was happy with.

Now, while I still draw by hand, I always work with the same prototype craftsman. I love the prototypes he creates, and meeting him was a significant turning point. The reason I continue "Trygod" today is largely due to his presence. Not only is he highly skilled, but he also puts in an extraordinary amount of effort, going beyond what's strictly necessary.

──Where do new design ideas come from?

NagaseI don't have specific quotas. Ideas emerge from conversations with friends, or when someone asks for a specific piece, like earrings, and I expand on that. I also draw inspiration from music, films, and art, or simply from everyday life. Sometimes I decide on a main theme for the year before starting the design process. Rather than creating a wide variety of designs, I focus on developing a core design.

──For the collaboration with Hysteric Glamour, that core design is the skull, isn't it?

A Musician Who Purchased a Skull Keychain with Headphones

──These are truly beautiful, high-end pieces of jewelry.

KitamuraHysteric Glamour has a skull design with headphones, and Nagase-kun and I discussed how interesting it would be to turn that into jewelry.

NagaseWe both love music, and it's interesting how that's reflected in the products we create. Since it's a skull, it doesn't have ears, yet it's wearing headphones (laughs).

──This skull headphone keychain, as well as the skull headphone pendant, are crafted from sterling silver 925 and adorned with approximately 1000 pieces of natural and black diamonds, making them akin to art pieces.

NagaseFurthermore, the craftsmen insisted that it wouldn't be acceptable if even one stone came loose. So, instead of gluing them, they meticulously set each gem using prongs in a pavé setting. Such painstaking work by the artisans is invaluable to the pieces.

──This "Trygod for Hysteric Glamour" series is made to order, correct?

NagaseYes, that's right. The artisans pour their soul into crafting them. I was so happy when the first pieces were completed.

KitamuraA very famous international female musician bought one at the Hysteric Glamour Aoyama store.

NagaseI was so happy when you told me that, Kitamura-san.

KitamuraShe saw it in the store, fell in love with it at first sight, went home to think about it, and came back the next day to buy it. I can just imagine her agonizing over it that night, which is quite endearing.

NagaseShe sounds like a wonderful person (laughs). I should listen to her albums properly.

──Nagase-san, what are your future design plans?

NagaseWith pieces like these, it's important not to over-design them, but I also want to push the boundaries as much as possible. I want to explore various avenues. Since they are made to order, I hope people can feel the artisans' dedication.

KitamuraAt Hysteric Glamour, we carry the full line of "Trygod for Hysteric Glamour," including bangles and necklaces. Looking at your "Trygod" work, Nagase-kun, I see how emotions manifest into form. My own work involves editing the skills of those involved in materials, sewing, and printing. Designers need editing abilities. These skills are particularly valued now. It's up to us whether we utilize the talents of skilled artisans or not. The act of creation naturally pushes you to improve, always wanting to be better than last year. That's why the creation process is fascinating, but lately, I find more resonance in seeing people wearing clothes on the street.

NagaseYour words are very insightful, Kitamura-san.

KitamuraIn "Trygod," I sense your naive, stoic, cynical, and shy nature, your unwillingness to compromise, and yet, a subtly feminine sensibility.

──Thank you very much.