FASHION /
MEN
March 13, 2015
BOGLIOLI | The Vanguard of Men's Classics, Where Innovation Upholds Tradition
BOGLIOLI
2011 S/S Men’s Collection
The Vanguard of Men's Classics, Upholding Tradition Through Innovation
Boglioli embodies the spirit of Italian classics, reinterpreted through a modern sartorial lens. While renowned for iconic models like the K Jacket and Dover, this dynamic factory, with a history spanning over a century, is constantly developing new designs. Today, it is accelerating its evolution from a maker of distinguished single jackets to a comprehensive maison that dictates style.
Using the iconic looks from the 2011 S/S Men’s Collection as our compass, we delve into the allure of Boglioli's ongoing success.
Text by IKEDA YasuyukiPhotos by YOSHIZAWA KentaPhotos cooperation by BOGLIOLI
Boglioli's Innovation in Men's Style
At times, jackets are casually draped over a wall, eschewing traditional mannequins and hangers for a presentation that feels almost artful. At others, wire sculptures, folded geometrically, serve as displays for avant-garde ensembles. Every January and June, at "Pitti Immagine Uomo" in Florence, the booth for "Futuro Maschile" (Future Masculine), showcasing brands poised to define the next generation of classics, becomes a focal point. The displays, distinctly different from those of maisons rooted in sartorial tradition, offer an exhibition-like sensibility, a modern aesthetic that quietly speaks to Boglioli's present, a heritage built on over a century of craftsmanship.

The K Jacket, Hampton, Dover, Whyte, and more. Each jacket is sought after by name, a phenomenon that global buyers agree is unprecedented in the history of men's fashion movements.
The K Jacket, introduced in 2003, boldly employed a garment-dyeing technique called "tint in capo," a revolutionary approach that sent shockwaves through European maisons and became a masterpiece for stylish men worldwide. The Dover, with its three patch pockets, launched in 2008, and this spring's highly anticipated Whyte, now play the role of trendsetters. Indeed, it is rare to recall a brand that has brought such a trend into men's wardrobes, beyond the realm of formalwear, especially during a time when classics have become so popular.
At a time when unconstructed jackets had not yet become mainstream in formal wear, Boglioli introduced a jacket free of any internal structure or padding. This style has now become a leading trend, emulated by many maisons. As one journalist put it, "Without Boglioli, classics would have died in the 20th century."
For the past two seasons, the brand has expanded into a full-fledged total look. The collection, with its clear emphasis on men's style rooted in the jacket, has created a borderless aesthetic that bridges the gap between classic and modern, which had previously been quite distinct. If asked whether it is formal wear, the answer is no. If asked if it is sportswear, the answer remains the same. It is an innovation based on an entirely new standard. The synergy between Pierluigi Boglioli, a designer whose lineage traces back to the small Sartoria Boglioli workshop in Gambara, Northern Italy, in the late 19th century, and Roberto Farchi, who previously held positions at Dior and Prada before becoming CEO, generates a powerful torque that is transforming the brand from a factory label into a luxury maison.
BUYER'S RECOMMENDATION VOICE OF BOGLIOLI!
Boglioli's foresight lies in its ability to read and incorporate the zeitgeist. As the fashion world began to sense a return to classics from designer trends, Boglioli ventured into uncharted territory for classic maisons by applying bold treatments to sartorial jackets. At Estnation, where both designer and classic pieces are curated, Boglioli is recognized as a unique brand supported by customers from both categories. Consequently, we stock models with daring colors, patterns, and materials that might not be found elsewhere. For the modern individual navigating between classic and contemporary styles, isn't this precisely the brand they need?
Yuichiro HARA
Buyer, Estnation
Appointed buyer at Estnation in 2003, he is solely responsible for the buying of the classic department within a specialty store that expertly blends both modern and classic styles.

