The "Ghost," central to BROOKS, is one of the most beloved shoes by runners worldwide. A century of history has produced numerous standards. The crystallization of sincere craftsmanship offers a clear answer to what people seek in running shoes. And now, BROOKS's next stage involves entering the lifestyle and fashion markets. For this, we need to understand the brand's philosophy more deeply. How did Masashi Watanabe, a heavyweight of Tokyo culture, view the unpretentious "Ghost" from BROOKS?

In 1914, 22-year-old John Brooks Goldenberg founded the "Brooks Shoe Company" in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. They began manufacturing leather bathing shoes and ballet slippers, eventually branching out into various sports footwear.

The actual history of sneakers in America began in the 1970s, when sports became mass media and material development rapidly advanced. After the Vietnam War, America, regaining a sense of peace, saw a boom in jogging driven by a health-conscious trend, bringing running shoes into the spotlight.

BROOKS developed the renowned "Villanova" in 1974. In 1975, they pioneered the development of running shoes by being the first to incorporate EVA as a cushioning material, known for leading the running shoe development race. EVA, lighter and softer than rubber, with superior cushioning and better rebound than sponge, quickly became the standard for midsoles. In 1977, they released the "Vantage," which earned a coveted reputation, including two consecutive 5-star ratings in the shoe contest of the authoritative running magazine "Runner's World" (in 1978 and 1979).

The "Hyperion Tempo," a training model for top athletes, was a major topic that energized the running market in 2020. It's an ideal pair that balances high cushioning and responsiveness while remaining lightweight. Its distinguishing feature is the cutting-edge "DNA Flash" foam used in the midsole.

While the famous episodes have been briefly recounted, BROOKS subsequently attempted to become a full-fledged athletic company, leveraging its expertise in specialized fields for other genres, much like many other sports manufacturers.
They pursued diversification through endorsement deals with popular athletes such as James Worthy in the NBA and Jimmy Connors in tennis, but this did not last long (again, similar to other sports manufacturers).

As a result, they pivoted to leverage their strengths, embarking on a new chapter as a brand specializing in running shoes in 2000. Jim Weber, who became CEO at this time, stated in a 2013 interview with Forbes magazine, "We were playing a game that Nike had perfected, and we weren't succeeding." Yet, today, they hold the No. 1 market share in the running market in the US.

To exaggerate slightly, American runners love BROOKS more than popular sports brands. Supporting this popularity is the "Ghost" series, launched in 2008 and continuously updated each year.

What is its unique identity in the competitive running shoe industry? The answer lies in its pursuit of "standardization" in its shoes while defining a luxurious value within that.
It caters to a wide range, from beginners to elite training and races, offering a comfort that anyone can experience without any particular quirks. When someone considering running visits a specialty store, the staff, attentive to foot care, will confidently recommend BROOKS's "Ghost."

BROOKS's superior comfort stems from the high cushioning of its soles and material selection. The rubber outsole, with varying hardness on the outer and inner sides, ensures smooth toe-offs, running stability, and durability. The "DNA LOFT" in the midsole is a technology developed in 2018. It offers a 30% improvement in cushioning performance compared to previous versions and is widely supported by beginner to intermediate runners.

While BROOKS has found its rhythm in the last decade, it's already beginning to gain traction in Japan. The challenge now is how to embed the branding, built for runners, into lifestyle contexts.

To address this, we asked Masashi Watanabe, a designer who has led Tokyo's culture scene and offers many sneaker selections at "DAYZ" in MIYASHITA PARK, to try on the latest "Ghost 13."

WatanabeI used to wear the "Vantage" in the 80s. Of course, I was young then and didn't think about comfort, but what's interesting about BROOKS is its specialization in running. I believe this stoic approach underlies the trust people have in their shoes.

BROOKS are undoubtedly shoes made for runners. The fact that they are loved by so many runners suggests they express the ideal design for running shoes at a common denominator. Just as New Balance did in the past, and Hoka One One more recently, there have been instances where shoes that seemed uncertain of success became fashion items due to their superior comfort derived from craftsmanship. BROOKS holds that potential too.

I felt a great sense of ease when I first put them on. In America, jogging is more ingrained as a habit than in Japan or Europe. The roads are wider, there's more nature, and given the diverse situations, I can understand why these shoes are chosen. They are also easy to match with outfits and are affordably priced, so many people wear them. I think that's the strength of BROOKS.

The "Vantage," which Mr. Watanabe once wore, is said to have arrived in Japan in 1979. It was around the time when sneakers, originally tools for running, first became fashion items.
It's well-known that the 90s saw sneakers become objects of status, leading to various negative incidents. However, it's a lesser-known fact that over 15 years prior to that, the "Vantage" was so popular that it led to a spate of thefts.
This model, handled by famous import shops in Tokyo, was an object of desire for the youth of the time.

Although I am from a slightly later generation and didn't experience the 80s boom firsthand, around '93, a trend emerged where various manufacturers began reissuing classic running models from the past. Magazines at the time introduced BROOKS's "Vantage" and "Villanova" as one of the options.

Compared to popular brands, BROOKS was a more understated brand, but it had a reputation for its quality craftsmanship – that image formed during my teenage years. While pairing Levi's 501XX with Nike Cortez was a classic choice, those who paired them with BROOKS were more into vintage clothing and were considered connoisseurs.

To be continued in Part 2 | Coming Soon

Masashi Watanabe
Born in 1971 in Tokyo. Started his career as a model, gained experience studying abroad in London and working with street brands, then founded DLX. In 2004, he launched his own brand, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, which took the street scene by storm. He recently opened the select shop "DAYZ" within the new commercial complex RAYARD MIYASHITA PARK, which opened in 2020.

Ghost 13
The 13th iteration of the "Ghost" series, first released in 2008. Previous models have received the "Editor's Choice" award from the American running magazine "Runner's World," which evaluates shoes from a comprehensive perspective. True to its tagline "It’s automatic," this shoe allows for comfortable running regardless of speed. Behind this are the midsole with varying hardness front and back, a grippy structure on the heel for enhanced durability, and the quality of the heel counter that supports the foot – high technology is invested in these less visible areas. The all-white colorway is a Japan-exclusive. ¥13,000 (excluding tax).

BROOKS
Founded in 1914, BROOKS is the No. 1 running shoe brand in the US with over 100 years of history.
In 1975, they developed the EVA-equipped shoe, now a standard in the running shoe industry, establishing a "standard" in footwear. With numerous innovative running shoes, they have supported countless runners from beginners to top athletes and continue to pursue innovation.

With the brand message "RUN HAPPY," BROOKS is the most supported brand in the US, where running is deeply rooted as a lifestyle. Their sustainable initiatives, such as obtaining Bluesign certification for their manufacturing processes and developing midsoles that consider environmental issues, are also highly regarded.