Levi’s^®The Most Creative Collection at Levi’s

──This is the first collection in seven years since the last one, isn't it?

Miles Johnson (MJ)Perhaps “the time was right” is the most fitting phrase. We started working on it about four years ago, around the time we established a new office in Amsterdam. It had been a considerable amount of time since the 2007 release, but we had been nurturing the concept for a long time. As it's the line that allows for the most creative expression within Levi’s^®projects, we were able to approach it with enjoyment.



──Levi’s^®Vintage ClothingandLevi’s^®Made & Crafted™were also progressing simultaneously. Did you experience any stress?

MJThere was no stress. Quite the opposite, in fact. Each line had a positive influence on the others, fostering creativity. Levi’s^®Vintage Clothing represents the past, Levi’s^®Made & Crafted™ the present, and Levi’s^®RED™ the future, each with a distinct personality. The way we think and conduct business also differs for each.



──What did you focus on when creating this collection?

MJWhen creating a Levi’s^®RED™ collection, it's necessary to think very simply. Within a small-scale collection, we deliberately blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear. Considering the unisex items as separate, there are only about 10 women's items, 9 men's items, and 2 special items – a very limited lineup.

Moreover, we gathered Levi’s^®'s identity from the past, reassembled it, and created something new. While maintaining the relationship with Levi’s^®, we adjusted the product range. This is quite challenging. For example, imagine redesigning the already perfect item of 'jeans' from every angle.

Deriving the Future from the Past

──What was the starting point for the collection?

MJThis collection, “Lined RED,” takes American quilting as its design source. As I delved into its history, I was captivated by its beauty. The indigo fabric we call denim has a history of being used in quilting. From that thread, we decided to create something connected to America’s past.

──The “Quilt” and “Cummerbund” pieces were particularly striking. What led you to create these?

MJThose two are experimental and symbolic products. The “Quilt,” made with ample fabric, is constructed by cutting padded indigo silk into panels and joining them with heavy topstitching. It has three openings, allowing you to put your head through one, or your arms through another. It can be worn, but also used as a cover for a sofa or bed, or even draped over a car's back seat.



The “Cummerbund,” which is also worn around the waist in the lookbook, pairs exceptionally well with the quilt. The design of this item is influenced by the pockets of Levi’s^®'s aprons from the 1870s. The lining is pleated silk, so if you wear it with the silk side out, it can be worn around the waist like a classic cummerbund. By wearing this over the oversized quilt, you can adjust the volume and enjoy various styles.

──So, there's no fixed form?

MJThat’s right. You can even wear it with someone else (laughs).

──All the items are padded. What was the intention behind that?

MJThis collection, “Lined RED,” literally focuses on the “lining.” For the indigo items, we used a dense cotton-hemp on the outside, brushed cotton flannel in between, and a cotton-silk lining – three layers in total.



──What was the reason for unifying the collection in blue and white?

MJBlue and white are colors that evoke a fresh, clean image, and I believe they symbolize Levi’s^®'s style – the combination of a white t-shirt and jeans. They are colors intrinsically linked to the brand, almost like a uniform.

There are a total of 17 items. Even if we count the 4 unisex items as 2 items each for men and women, that’s only 21 pieces. If we had used 4 or 5 colors in such a small collection, we might not have achieved a sense of unity.

──Where was the lookbook shot?



MJIn southern Spain. It's said that Western films, including Clint Eastwood's 'The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,' were filmed there. If I had lived in America, I would have shot it in Nevada, but since our current office is in Amsterdam, it wasn't feasible due to the distance. However, you can still feel the atmosphere of the Nevada desert, can't you? Levi’s^®RED™ is a collection that expresses the future, so we chose a location that felt unreal, like a science-fiction world not found on Earth.

──What did you want to express with the collection as a whole?

MJAs you can see from the lookbook, we aimed to embody a sense of lightness and softness, an "airiness" and "freedom," as if filled with air. They are warm for autumn and winter wear, and thanks to their breathability, they are also cool for spring and summer. The relaxed silhouettes minimize stress when worn.

Skinny silhouettes have been the trend for a long time, but I thought there should be another option, like these oversized, voluminous pieces. And for Levi’s^®, the originator of jeans, to do this could be a significant antithesis to current trends.


Levi’s^®RED™ “Lined RED”
Retailers: UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store Men's Building Tel. 03-3479-8180
UNITED ARROWS Sapporo Tel. 011-218-6001
UNITED ARROWS Kumamoto Tel. 096-311-7745
http://www.levisred.net/