ESTNATION | Buyer's Feature | Celebrating 10 Years of Autumn/Winter: A Mix of Balance

ESTNATION

Toshio Sakaki, Men's General Manager, Merchandising Department

Autumn/Winter: Celebrating 10 Years with a Mix of Styles

This year marks ESTNATION's 10th anniversary, a special milestone. Toshio Sakaki, Men's General Manager, states, "This season clearly highlights the strengths of ESTNATION menswear, with details and motifs inspired by military tastes and luxury." He describes a look featuring a slim-fit jacket, a classic gilet for a tie-up, military trousers, and smart brown lace-up shoes.──This delicate balance is the secret to ESTNATION's popularity.

Text by OPENERSPhotos by Nobuhiro Shimoyama

An Exquisite Blend of Addition and Subtraction, Deconstruction and Formality

"The concept for this year's coordination is 'hybrid.' In today's era, rather than coordinating around a single theme, a sense of 'relaxed elegance' is preferable. Try expressing your individuality by combining rugged items with those that evoke intellect, calculating the interplay of addition and subtraction, deconstruction and formality," advises Sakaki.

Purchase01
ESTNATION × sage de cret Exclusive Mods Coat
Born from a true collaboration where both halves work perfectly together.

This season also features numerous collaborations, with an increasing number of categories where brands and designers participate in ESTNATION's original brands, rather than collaborations solely dependent on existing brands.

"Leading this initiative is the 'ESTNATION × sage de cret' collaboration. Designer Jinju Chida and I share a similar sensibility regarding military wear, allowing for excellent communication. For this collection, we focused on a theme of authentic military styles, creating mods coats, M-65 jackets, reversible down vests, and military trousers. We infused his creations with a strong sense of real military aesthetics, focusing on texture and authenticity. The response has been very positive, and they are selling well."
ESTNATION × sage de cret Exclusive Mods Coat ¥67,200 (ESTNATION)

Purchase02
TATRAS×Lat40.8×ESTNATION Exclusive Leather Blouson
The ultimate triple collaboration, featuring the exquisite texture and softness characteristic of Rat's leather!

Next is a down blouson with a leather finish, heavily featuring TATRAS motifs. ESTNATION proposed the texture and processing of Lat40.8's lamb leather, resulting in this finished piece.

"Last year, it sold out through reservations, so this year we wanted to ensure it was available in stores. Therefore, we intentionally avoided major changes, with only minor modifications to the silhouette. It's a piece I confidently recommend to those who missed out last year. The down padding in the hood and the textured quilting give this blouson a strong, detailed impression. At this quality level, the price is exceptional."
TATRAS×Lat40.8×ESTNATION Exclusive Leather Blouson ¥134,400 (ESTNATION)

Purchase03
"Weft & Warp BY EDWIN" Denim
"Let's do something unique that others can't replicate" - The highly successful premium men's denim.

We wanted to create something tangible to commemorate ESTNATION's 10th anniversary.──When searching for denim brands in America, those using Japanese fabrics and processing, particularly the more meticulously crafted ones, come with a higher price tag. This led to discussions with EDWIN, who are also celebrating their 50th anniversary this year, about creating something 'Made in Japan.' We brought together ideas, meticulously selecting every detail, from rivets and buttons to leather patches and materials, to propose something unprecedented. This is the result.

"We believed that if we put our hearts into it, it would be truly remarkable, and we wanted to create a denim section for discerning adults. When I first visited EDWIN, they showed me details from their past 50 years of work, revealing not only their creative prowess but also their deep-rooted strength. Features like the orange selvedge and materials not commonly found in Japan serve as iconic elements. The label name 'Weft & Warp' symbolizes the intertwining of warp and weft threads, as well as the convergence of ESTNATION and EDWIN. Please look forward to future developments."
Weft & Warp BY EDWIN Denim ¥34,650 (ESTNATION)

Purchase04
"TRUSSARDI 1911" Exclusive Knit Hoodie
The final collaboration under Milan Vukmirovic's direction.

Driven by a desire to collaborate with 'maison-style brands,' we partnered with Trussardi 1911. Approaching the brand, known for its mastery of camouflage motifs, we aimed to create something modern and refined, resulting in this knit hoodie.

"Our initial concept was 'simple yet not overtly camouflage.' Incorporating our feedback during fittings, it became a hoodie that can be stylishly paired with refined trousers. This is the only color available, a combination of navy and gray. Embracing this season's keyword 'mix balance,' try layering it with a simple inner shirt, a jacket, and military cargo pants for a trendy look that leverages the refined camouflage pattern."
TRUSSARDI 1911 Exclusive Knit Hoodie ¥90,300 (ESTNATION)

Purchase05
ESTNATION made by h.ide Exclusive Shirt
A shirt crafted by Hiroyuki Ide, a specialist in denim.

To strengthen ESTNATION's original brand identity, we approached Hiroyuki Ide, a creator we admire, to collaborate on product development.

"He has a long history as a modelist for maison-style denim brands, and he's someone I admire. We've collaborated before, and this time we decided to create shirts. At first glance, they appear to be conservative shirts, but we've applied a rigorous processing technique to the standard shirt fabric, giving it a stiff texture and a unique, vintage-like appearance. Although the silhouette is slim, they are comfortable to wear and come in two patterns: stripes and dots. Please look forward to our collaborations with creators in the upcoming Spring/Summer season."
ESTNATION made by h.ide Exclusive Shirt ¥22,050 (ESTNATION)

Purchase06
"BUTTERO" Exclusive Shearling Boots
Take one step beyond the ordinary to create a distinctive look.

This season's theme, 'mix balance,' also encompasses outdoor sports. We've commissioned exclusive boots from BUTTERO, with whom we collaborate every season.

"While shearling-lined boots are common in European collections, inner boa lining for trekking shoes is a rare find. These shearling boots feature removable tongues, allowing for traditional lace-up styling or a fresh look by subtly showing off patterned socks. They are perfect for pairing with slightly slim wool trousers or jeans, and for enjoying variations in pant length."
BUTTERO Exclusive Shearling Boots ¥69,300 (ESTNATION)

Toshio Sakaki
ESTNATION Merchandising Department, Men's General Manager
Joined the company in 2003 with the opening of the Roppongi Hills store, later moving to the Merchandising Department. He has been involved in purchasing for international designer brands and developing private label collections. He travels extensively, attending collections in Paris, Milan, and New York throughout the year, spending a significant portion of his time abroad.

ESTNATION
Tel. 03-5159-7800
http://www.estnation.co.jp/