UNITED ARROWS | Buyer's Picks | Clothes That Move the Heart

UNITED ARROWS

Shoji Uchiyama, Buyer at UNITED ARROWS

Clothes That Move the Heart

UNITED ARROWS, a popular destination, has opened a new combined men's and women's store on the second floor of Lumine 2 at 'Lumine Yurakucho,' and it's a resounding success. Featured in this buyer's special is Shoji Uchiyama, the main men's buyer. "This autumn/winter, I was drawn to a sense of humanity, such as the warmth of handmade items and materials, and I focused on the collection's theme of 'Small Trade' – the natural coolness found in uniforms and everyday wear," he explains.

Text by OPENERSPhotos by Emiko Hara

The Basis of Buying: Intuition Driven by 'Cool, I Want This'

"While I refine my selections by looking at shows and exhibitions based on the season's directional theme, the fundamental approach is intuition driven by 'Cool, I want this.' Ultimately, I end up buying clothes that move my heart," says Uchiyama. Among these, what particularly caught his eye this season were traditional items that have naturally evolved, like berets and Paraboot Tyrolean shoes, along with authentic, trad-minded pieces. He also advises, "Brands like Umit Benan and M's Braque, which balance trends with the designer's distinct taste and identity, can elevate your mood and make your daily life more enjoyable. Please pay attention to these brands."

Purchase 01
Jacket by 'McRitchie'
A piece reflecting Italy's delicate and meticulous craftsmanship

The Italian brand 'McRitchie' is said to have roots in a company that once existed in Britain. Since changing ownership to an Italian, they use British fabrics but produce in Italy, known for its delicate manufacturing. Buyer Uchiyama views it as a new brand.

The Shetland felted wool is a favorite material of mine. Using British fabric, the Italian technique results in a beautiful silhouette. When I tried it on, I realized it was truly a piece that 'you don't see often.' It's lightweight and offers the feel of stretchy jersey. The brass buttons are stylish, and with my favorite color, red, it's simply perfect.
For a stylish look this winter, I recommend coordinating this jacket as an outer layer over a Scye denim jumpsuit with a shirt and tie.
McRitchie Jacket ¥54,600 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 02
Special Order Shoes by 'Paraboot'
A sophisticated Tyrolean shoe with black stitching on the upper

Uchiyama is a big fan of Paraboot, considering them a timeless classic that even the younger generation can appreciate anew for their appeal.

"Paraboot's 'MORZINE' is said to have originated in the 1940s and is a famous Tyrolean shoe model within the Paraboot lineup. It perfectly embodies what I'm focusing on this year: 'warm, ethnic elements.' Known as footwear worn by those working in mountainous regions, the thick leather upper is hand-stitched at the overlapping moccasin toe. The design, born from practicality, is beautifully modern. This special order features black stitching on the upper, which significantly changes its overall feel. I'd recommend pairing them with suits or jackets."
Paraboot Special Order Shoes ¥63,000 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 03
Special Order Down Vest by 'CANADA GOOSE'
A stylish piece to wear over a jacket, perfect for my beloved suit style

"I personally love the 'Alberta' model in ripstop material, but I was disappointed that wearing a down jacket made layering difficult. So, this time, I proposed a Canada Goose vest that allows for enjoyable layering. I want people to wear it over a suit jacket. It features a concealed placket so that minimal details are visible on the surface, and a double zip closure inside. The material is Arctic Tech, one of the brand's signature fabrics. With a tricolor accent, it retains a clean, pop feel while achieving a very elegant finish."
Available in four colors: beige, navy, black, and olive.
CANADA GOOSE Special Order Down Vest ¥46,200 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 04
Basque Beret by 'Boinas Elosegui'
A beret from the Basque region of Spain

"The one I'm wearing today is a French Basque beret. Berets are a favorite winter hat of mine. This is a traditional Basque beret from Boinas Elosegui," says Uchiyama.

"Boinas Elosegui is said to be the world's oldest brand from the Basque region of Spain. When we place a special order, they can create berets in various sizes, but they are all one-size-fits-all. As you wear it, it conforms to the shape and size of your head. I have my own way of wearing it; I don't wear it evenly but slightly askew, in a somewhat messy way. It's windproof and waterproof. It's indispensable for winter business trips. This autumn and winter, with so many clothes that lift your spirits, I highly recommend a beret!"
Boinas Elosegui Basque Beret ¥9,975 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 05
Special Order Cape by 'Scye'
A coat with drape? A cape that feels incredibly light to wear due to its fitted shoulders

A cape that appeared in the women's collection last year and Uchiyama found very cool, has been released this year as a men's exclusive.

"While it's a historical, authentic, and traditional item, this cape features Scye's signature calculated pattern, allowing the shoulders to fit perfectly without feeling heavy. It offers the same sensation as wearing a double-breasted Chester coat. The freedom to move your hands and the inner pockets for securing them contribute to a sleek look. The substantial fabric and the chin guard, when fastened, make it suitable even in the harsh winter cold."
Scye Special Order Cape ¥71,400 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 06
Special Order Safari Jacket by 'Mando'
Condensed with genuine quality, not merely imitated

The safari jacket is a favorite among UNITED ARROWS staff, almost like a uniform. "The safari jacket evokes the image of Saint Laurent in the 1970s – an item that is elegant, sporty, and possesses both masculine allure and toughness. This time, we asked designer Mitsumichi Takasu to create a year-round shirt jacket with a brushed finish through processing," he says.

"It's one of the fashion roots for both us and Mitsumichi-san, and it's a piece that encapsulates his sensibility and excellent taste. What makes me happy is the abundance of convenient pockets. I can store my company keys, wallet, phone, and Pasmo all in my pockets when I go out, making it incredibly useful. Also, since I always like to wear a jacket, the fact that its appearance changes depending on how it's styled is appealing. In winter, you can wear it over a shirt, and then layer a down jacket or coat over it. It's available in navy and khaki."
Mando Special Order Safari Jacket ¥46,200 (UNITED ARROWS)

Purchase 07
Special Order Suit by 'm's braque'
A pinstripe print suit proposed with materials that exceed expectations

"In Kyushu, men often say, 'A man must have a certain allure.' I want to propose a masculine sensuality. That's why this m's braque suit. It truly has a daily wearability, a masculine charm and sheen, and is more than just a formal outfit."

"At the exhibition, designer Takahiro Matsushita and I were discussing wanting to wear a suit that is both elegant and alluring. Then this velvet suit with a pinstripe print appeared. Depending on the viewing angle, it might look like corduroy, but it's a fabric with a trompe-l'oeil effect. It comes in navy and brown. A double-breasted suit has a different atmosphere than a single-breasted one, and it's truly a suit for those who want to fully embrace allure. I hope you'll wear it with flair. The same material is also available as a Chester coat."
m's braque Special Order Jacket ¥109,200, Pants ¥33,600 (UNITED ARROWS)

Shoji UCHIYAMA

Joined UNITED ARROWS in 1997.
After working at the Harajuku Main Store Men's Building for 10 years, he became a buyer.
He is in charge of purchasing for all men's items, from designer brands to shoes and accessories. Originally from Fukuoka Prefecture. Age 36.

UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store Men's Building
3-28-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo B1F-3F
Business Hours | 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM (Weekdays), 11:00 AM - 8:00 PM (Weekends & Holidays)
Tel. 03-3479-8180
www.united-arrows.jp