LOOPWHEELER × RUMORS Special Edition Hoodie
FASHION / FEATURES
February 2, 2015

LOOPWHEELER × RUMORS Special Edition Hoodie


LOOPWHEELER


Hoodie for all grown ups


LOOPWHEELER×RUMORS special edition hoodie (1)



Here we present the LOOPWHEELER x RUMORS special edition hoodie! “Hoodie for all grown ups” is the concept of this collaboration. You may expect excellence in both material and design. LOOPWHEELER CEO Satoshi Suzuki and director of RUMORS, Hiroyuki Matsumoto, are about to tell us more.

Read the Japanese article here



Text by FUJITA Mayu (OPENERS)Photographs by TAKADA MidzuhoTranslated by Winsome Li (OPENERS)




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Internationally recognized craftsmanship




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LOOPWHEELER CEO Satoshi Suzuki is an expert in production and has been supporting many apparel manufacturers in Japan. He is involved in various aspects from material selection to pattern making. “Everything except tailoring,” Suzuki said. With all his experience in fashion, he met the craftsmen of the loop wheel factory who share the same values with him.




LOOPWHEELER was established in 1999. The brand name “LOOPWHEELER” was inspired by the loop wheel machines. The fabric knitted by loop wheel machines is a long-lasting material with a unique texture, softness, and thermal properties, much like cotton.

The loop wheel machines are widely used overseas. LOOPWHEELER has become an internationally renowned brand, having collaborated with Nike and been sold at Colette in Paris. The modest loop wheel factory and sewing factory have received high reputations and represent the bright future of Japanese craftsmanship. Created by LOOPWHEELER, a loop wheel manufacturer, and RUMORS, this special edition hoodie has much for us to explore.


The 3 standard types of LOOPWHEELER hoodie



──The hoodie is not just a rearrangement of details; are all the parts original?





SUZUKIWe didn’t start from zero. This special edition is based on the high-neck hoodie (LW190). We redrew the pattern, trimmed 40mm from the original model, and replaced the pocket. The LW190 has a smart silhouette and a high-neck design that protects the neck from strong wind. It is relatively new compared with the other two LOOPWHEELER hoodies. One has the same design as LW190 but is made from LW Light fabric; we call it LW81.


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LW Light LW190





The third hoodie is an authentic model, the LW09. With the original features of typical hoodies, both sides are seamless, forming a cylindrical body shape. For LW81 and LW190, they are made by combining the front and back parts cut from fabric knitted in a large caliber. You may find seams on both sides, which is a typical feature for hoodies.



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LW Light LW81


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LW Basic LW09





The LW09 is a seamless hoodie available in 5 sizes from XS to XL. The cylindrical shapes of the knitted fabric (the caliber) represent different sizes. This is the first item for the “LW Basic” line. Without the seam, it fits the body better and feels more comfortable. However, we cannot adjust the sizes as they all depend on the diameters of the cylindrical shapes from the loop wheel machines.


A sophisticated hoodie for grown ups




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MARUWA Textiles Industries in Aomori, “Sewing parts” ©LOOPWHEELER


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MARUWA Textiles Industries in Aomori, “Flat Seamer” ©LOOPWHEELER





We have MARUWA Textiles Industries in Aomori complete the sewing for us. Sewing machines with 4 needles, called “Flat Seamer,” are used at MARUWA. The sewing speed of the rarely used “Flat Seamer” is slower than normal machines. Commonly used machines have 2 needles; the fabric sewn by them seems perfect on the front side, but stitches on the back overlap, and the fabric becomes a bit uneven. However, the 4 needles of the “Flat Seamer” can achieve a flat surface. Certain parts of LOOPWHEELER items, including LW09 and LW81, are sewn by “Flat Seamer.”






LOOPWHEELER


Hoodie for all grown ups


LOOPWHEELER×RUMORS special edition hoodie (2)




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A sophisticated hoodie for grown ups



──What is the design concept?





MATSUMOTOChanging the original shapes of the existing LOOPWHEELER hoodie sounds a bit ridiculous. However, our concept is a less casual, simple, and sophisticated hoodie for grown-ups. To achieve a slim silhouette, we trimmed 40mm from the pattern and readjusted the pockets and zippers for a smart image. For the pocket, we didn’t choose the “Kangaroo pocket,” which is typically used for hoodies. It looks casual and “American,” but the hoodie is originally from America, so I guess it should be more appropriate. Instead, we opted for the “Box pocket” for a modern look. Doesn’t it look smarter with this pocket?


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SUZUKIWe also have items with box pockets in LOOPWHEELER; it is the LW79. It has a ribbed pocket made from a different material, but the pocket of this edition uses the same material as the hoodie, giving it a fresh image.


A playful pocket with design and functionality




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──What are the other details?

MATSUMOTOWe added stitches on both sides of the zipper. This is an authentic design for a hoodie to emphasize its vertical line. It also makes the zipper easier to slide with those stitches. As more people are riding bicycles recently, we placed another pocket on the back. The silhouette would be compromised if we put the pocket in the front. It is on the left for this special edition; LOOPWHEELER’s one is on the right, I believe.



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This is what we mean by craftsmanship! Check out the shape of the back pocket opening.




SUZUKILOOPWHEELER produces a Back Pocket Hoodie every year; the pocket is on the right. The easily accessible slanted pocket is fairly large and very convenient. When riding a bicycle with the body bent down, the fabric stretches naturally with the curve, so the back silhouette still looks nice. The pocket is sharply closed for a clean look. It is not such a big deal, but a loose pocket can mess up the whole silhouette. Only MARUWA has the high sewing techniques to complete this shape finish.






LOOPWHEELER


Hoodie for all grown ups


LOOPWHEELER×RUMORS special edition hoodie (3)




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The improved exclusive fabric just for RUMORS



──So the brand tag on the cuffs is in a different color.

SUZUKIThe brand tag color varies with different collaborations. RUMORS’ one is black with charcoal grey lettering. It is so chic. Usually, hoodies have a casual, American college-like image, but this one is a traditional style with a European touch.



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LOOPWHEELER brand tag


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Special edition brand tag





MATSUMOTOWe want it to pair well with slim pants for a European style; the concept is to be casual yet smart. Looking good while also feeling comfortable. Even though we want it to be light and soft, we chose a firm fabric to achieve a more well-constructed shape.





SUZUKISo we created this new fabric exclusively for this hoodie. A fabric between LW Extra Light and LW Light, made exactly as RUMORS requested.

Actually, we did produce a similar fabric in the past, but I wasn’t satisfied with it. So we experimented with the combination of different yarn counts, knitting machines, and stitch densities.


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Even for the same caliber, the more stitches applied, the firmer the fabric will be. Texture can be changed by adjusting the yarn and the number of stitches.


A continuous process of trial and error, finally this vintage white is achieved.



──I found the double white lines quite striking against the simple design.





MATSUMOTOThose lines are in a vintage style.

SUZUKIOh…it was quite tough. We did test prints many times. It is easy to print plain white lines, like two white tapes. But it is so difficult to create this dyed, vintage white. We print it by layering a few extra-thin white inks, but the thinner the ink layer, the more it is absorbed by the fabric, and the color cannot be achieved clearly. We adjusted the ink quite a few times and finally got what we wanted. I am sure the images in the article cannot convey the real color.


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LOOPWHEELER


Hoodie for all the grown ups


LOOPWHEELER×RUMORS special edition hoodie (4)




rumors | To the online store







Values are generated from sophisticated techniques that cannot be formulated.



──Tell us your thoughts on this collaboration.

MATSUMOTOI really wanted to use discharge printing for the lines, but I realized it was impossible. I am glad that LOOPWHEELER accepted our demanding requests and tried out many difficult techniques. Although Japanese techniques are praised for their precision, most are high-tech. Traditional craftsmanship should also be a source of pride and admiration worldwide.

Many factories have closed down because they cannot find successors. I used to work for “Mono Magazine” and learned a lot there. Now, as a member of the web magazine “OPENERS,” I am determined to promote the aesthetics of craftsmanship. I want my readers to see the future of Japanese traditions. It is our pleasure to create this hoodie together with the highly recognized LOOPWHEELER.



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SUZUKICreating this new fabric, I worked together with the factory craftsmen, telling them what I wanted and going through many trials and errors. It must have been difficult for them because I am quite fussy… haha… but in a rational way.

Certainly, the long-established relationship with them is very important. The deep knowledge we both share is also essential for the creation process, which cannot be codified in a guidebook. Of course, we need written instructions to maintain basic standards.





People who witness the craftsmanship can pass it down through generations by their hands, eyes, voice, and feelings. It is not something that can be done in one or two days; it takes time and patience for both the narrator and the learner. It is a tough process.

The same applies to sewing factories here. As you may know, sweatshirt fabric is flexible, which makes it different from normal cloth. When sewing flexible fabric, the movement may be controlled by the operator's brain, but how the fabric stretches can only be learned by their hands. These experiences can only be gained by feeling the process. I believe this kind of sensual technique could be lost forever with just a single pause.


The real truth we want to share!



──How do you envision creation and consumption in the near future?





MATSUMOTOI think we cannot avoid the trend of creations becoming more standardized. But in the pursuit of better speed and convenience, I somehow feel scattered. You no longer have to physically visit a shop to make purchases. Just one click, and you get the goods the next day.

When I was a student, there was a shop that had all the cool items, and the staff there would teach me everything about fashion; I called it my “dream shop.” I was so attached to the products, and this taught me a new set of values. Retailers should know all about the features of materials, sewing techniques, history, or the background behind the products.


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I want the same for RUMORS. We created a new shop to fit the needs of today's market. We care not only about design and price but also about how to communicate with our customers about our products.

SUZUKIWe are niche retailers… People should have different opinions about our products. But with a strong tradition and origin of loop wheel sweatshirts, people should have a similar understanding of our goods. I want to talk to every customer, but it’s impossible. That’s why I want to take this opportunity to tell everyone about “the real truth I always want to share.”



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The real truth is about the thoughts of craftsmen on their creations. It is important to know their dedication towards creation. Our creations and values may go against the rational world of today. But I will continue supporting the craftsmen and stick with my reversed journey against the modern world.





*The original article in Japanese was published on February 28th, 2012.
*The RUMORS special hoodie will NOT be available at the LOOPWHEELER International Online Store.