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FEATURES
January 30, 2015
ESTNATION | Adult Daily Wear Showcased Through Collaboration with "Marvy Jamoke"
ESTNATION
A Collaboration with MARVY JAMOKE Begins!
An Interview with Designer Keita Sasaki (Part 1)
“Everyday Wear with a Touch of Refinement”
MARVY JAMOKE, a brand that proposes "New York Casual" style through products that functionally apply traditional design and tailoring techniques. This season, a collaboration has been realized for ESTNATION's Spring/Summer 2013 line. We spoke with Mr. Keita Sasaki, designer of MARVY JAMOKE, about the appeal of the collection.
Interview photographs by SAITO RyosukeStill photographs by ISHII YukihisaText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
Brand Philosophy
──What is the origin of the brand name?
"MARVY" is slang for "MARVELOUS," meaning first-class or wonderful. "JAMOKE" is slang for a rogue, a punk, or a good-for-nothing. Literally translated, it could mean something like a wonderful good-for-nothing, but "JAMOKE" also means "JAVA & MOCHA," referring to coffee.
If you interpret it that way, it means "a cup of the finest coffee." When people drink coffee, they are often seeking relaxation or a moment to pause. The brand name embodies the identity of wanting to create clothing that provides such a sense of comfort.
2013 S/S MARVY JAMOKE
──What is the concept of "New York Casual"?
For example, think of the movie "Coffee and Cigarettes." The image of people coming to a coffee shop is at the root of the design. New York is heavily influenced by Europe. Therefore, rather than typical American casual wear, it's more about refined everyday wear for adults.
──It has a soft feel, reminiscent of vintage clothing.
I like vintage clothing. I sometimes reference it for fabric texture and patterns. I've even disassembled vintage peacoats I bought to study their internal structure (laughs).
However, there's less need to wear heavy coats in this era. Instead of wearing them as they are, I add designs that match contemporary daily life. We want to offer clothing that people "can't help but reach for."
ESTNATION
A Collaboration with MARVY JAMOKE Begins!
An Interview with Designer Keita Sasaki (Part 2)
“Once You Wear It, You Won't Be Able to Let Go”
Interview photographs by SAITO RyosukeStill photographs by ISHII YukihisaText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
Starting with Fabric Development
— Please tell us about the lineup for this project.
We developed the fabrics from scratch, including twill with a coffee bean print and a fleece series made on a loopwheel machine. Some items are minor variations of pieces from the main collection, but we've adjusted the patterns and sizing to match the fabrics.
──Are there any special aspects to this collaboration?
During our first meeting with ESTNATION, we confirmed our shared desire to "propose excellent quality for adult daily wear above all else." Based on that, we've introduced a taste that is new for both ESTNATION and MARVY JAMOKE.
──The attention to detail in the fabric is evident in every item.
I always start with fabric development. I love textiles.
The twill fabric with the coffee bean print is woven on a shuttle loom, a machine traditionally used for denim. The yarn is spun on a spinning machine from 1958, which creates subtle irregularities and a wonderful texture. While regular twill is often very "clean," the airy feel after washing can only be achieved with this combination of yarn and shuttle loom.
For the prints, we work with a factory in Kyoto that has a long history of kimono printing. I visit the factory regularly and engage in ongoing dialogue with them.
──The items themselves have a relaxed, unforced feel.
It's like the image of waking up a little late and heading out for brunch at a diner, hands-free. The inner pocket, normally placed on the chest, is shifted lower to accommodate a newspaper. The inseam of the pants has a gusset for comfortable movement without compromising the silhouette.
──You mentioned the fleece series is made on a loopwheel machine.
Yes. Loopwheel machines are also old technology, and many vintage sweatshirts are made on them. However, they are not efficient, so they fell out of favor with mass production. Today, only a handful of factories remain, primarily in Wakayama. Despite this, the resulting fabric has a unique unevenness and texture that is its charm. Because it's knitted slowly, the yarn isn't put under tension, so it doesn't shrink significantly when washed.
For this project, since we were creating jackets and pants, we knitted the fabric with a high density. Normally, a sinker knitting machine is used, but it cannot achieve this level of density. Loopwheel machines are very analog, allowing the craftsman's skill to finely adjust the density of the knit fabric.
──You design the fabric with great attention to detail, tailored to each item.
That's precisely why cutting techniques come into play. For jackets, in particular, the fabric needs a certain firmness for the sleeves to achieve the right tubular shape. Therefore, I prioritize matching the fabric with the pattern. Furthermore, my concept is to create wearable clothing by designing even the internal structure.
──What do you hope people will feel through these items?
The sense of comfort, like taking a break with coffee, which is also the origin of the brand name. I believe ESTNATION also seeks that. This collection is a sophisticated one that doesn't compromise the essence of MARVY JAMOKE.
Fabric, pattern, functionality – I'm particular about all of them, so I want people to appreciate why a pocket is placed here or there. Once you wear them, I believe they will become clothes you can't part with.
Keita SASAKI
Born in 1981 in Hiroshima Prefecture. Studied tailoring during his student years and worked as a designer for various categories, including dresses and casual wear. After traveling extensively through Europe, he became the designer for MARVY JAMOKE in 2010.
ESTNATION
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