Seamless and Bespoke: A Sublime Art Piece

—Could you tell us again why you decided to propose seamless shoes?

Because that is currently the best way John Lobb can express itself through bespoke.

We have a wonderful royal customer who already owns over 500 pairs of bespoke shoes.

It's an incredible number; you'd think he wouldn't want any more shoes.

About two years ago, he consulted us about wanting to create a new pair of shoes, and John Lobb's craftsmen proposed a seamless construction without stitching.

He responded, "That's a great idea," and we were able to make one pair.

It was a magnificent pair of Oxford shoes. He was so pleased that he asked us to make another ten pairs.

That's how these seamless shoes came about.

—And then you decided to offer them to other customers?

However, it proved to be extremely challenging.

Making a single pair of seamless shoes requires an incomparable amount of time compared to other shoes. It's to the extent that we had to halt all other production.

So, there was the additional order for ten more pairs.

We were in a quandary, so we called in several craftsmen from Hermès, our sister company, to figure out how we could produce them.

Together with pattern makers, we also searched for new materials and tools. Ultimately, we developed our own tools and, with the Hermès team, created a new shoemaking process!

Thanks to that, we were able to deliver the ten pairs. He was delighted and asked us to make another seven pairs.

—Specifically, which processes take so much time?

After delivering the seven pairs, he was very satisfied and then requested, "Could you make the seamless shoes in crocodile?"

Making seamless shoes with beautifully patterned crocodile is significantly more difficult to handle than plain calfskin.

Fundamentally, the process of stretching a single, smooth piece of leather and curving it to the shape of the foot is extremely difficult. The leather itself must be free of any scratches or marks.

However, during the hand-lasting process, there are fine wrinkles where the upper meets the welt. These do not occur in machine-made shoes, so they are a mark of handmade craftsmanship. Discerning customers are aware of their existence.

He was absolutely thrilled with the crocodile shoes. Then he asked, "Could you make five more pairs?"

—It sounds like a fairy tale.

Paula Gerbase, our Artistic Director, was very intrigued by the seamless technology developed over two years. She expressed a strong desire to design with this technique, and thus the collection of seamless shoes was born.

She created five designs: a buckle style, a lace-up, a loafer, a riding boot, and a slip-on Oxford style.

—Do you think Paula Gerbase's creativity was a good match for seamless shoes? While seamlessness is a technique, the imagery it evokes feels very profound. It's minimal, elegant, and modern, yet also very sexy.

Paula perfectly understood the spirit of seamless shoes at John Lobb. Her designs are very simple and pure.

Adding ornamentation can allow one to hide things, but simplicity allows for no deception.

Paula's challenging spirit was ignited by the pursuit of a simplicity that showcases the beauty of the leather itself and the skill involved in crafting shoes from it, where no fakery is possible. She pushed herself without compromise and gave her best.

She described the fit of the seamless shoes as "like a glove." In addition to this soft comfort, we've incorporated a cushioned sole already used in another collection.

Every fine detail has been meticulously considered, but the underlying philosophy is simple, comfortable, and pleasant.

—Do you have a personal favorite, Patrick? And when do you find the seamless shoes most beautiful?

Personally, I'm fond of the buckle style, but I have a deep affection for all the models.

Each of the five styles embodies unique craftsmanship, and together they form a cohesive collection.

When one crosses their legs, the inside and outside of the shoe are visible from both sides. I love the balance between the beautiful outer curve and the straight cut of the inner shape.

However, perhaps it's a radical thought, but the designer of bespoke is the customer. Above all, I want these seamless shoes to be a collection for shoe enthusiasts.

Beyond the leather materials used, the technology employed and the time invested in each pair are exceptional. Naturally, the price reflects this as well. That's precisely why we want to create this unique idea together with unique customers.

—Finally, do you have a message for your fans in Japan?

For bespoke production, two lasts (wooden forms) are required. One is a classic last as a base, from which the customer's foot shape is taken, and then a second, bespoke last is needed for the actual crafting.

Production takes a considerable amount of time, so unfortunately, for now, we can only make them for customers who have previously ordered bespoke and thus already own their last. It's very limited, but we want to share our precious time with shoe lovers who understand John Lobb.

While John Lobb may not be the first to create seamless shoes, I believe we are the first to create a collection of bespoke seamless shoes. It is a beautiful art born from the craftsmanship we continue to cherish.