Tokyo's Buying & Research Greatly Influences Us

—What was the purpose of your visit to Japan this time?

Sam Lobban (hereinafter, Sam)I'm here to buy for the Autumn/Winter 2018 season's menswear. It's my first time in Tokyo in three years, and I'm researching new Japanese brands and current trends simultaneously.

—Have you newly selected any Japanese brands for buying?

SamBrands like "Flagstuff" and "AURALEE." "AURALEE" in particular has exceptional quality; I even ordered a shirt from them for myself.

—From your perspective, what is the current Tokyo menswear scene like?

Fiona Firth (hereinafter, Fiona)The Tokyo market is always exciting. Compared to the rest of the world, I feel Japanese men have a very natural understanding of fashion. From mega-stores to small select shops, there are many interesting items, and the unique labels from these shops often boast high quality. I sense a great deal of creativity alongside a spirit of adventure.

SamIn terms of that adventurous spirit, the styling of people walking around the city is very unique. For example, they might mix outdoor items with American sportswear, or blend formal wear. It gives the impression that they skillfully incorporate and practice the stylish outfits displayed in shop windows.

FionaTo put it bluntly, I sometimes wonder if Tokyo even needs physical stores anymore. This applies not just to the younger generation but also to older generations, especially in menswear.

—Does buying and research in Tokyo influence MR PORTER's taste?

FionaSince MR PORTER sells to 170 countries worldwide, even if a brand isn't widely known in its home country, its global recognition can increase through our site. It's significant that people who like casual wear or urban styles can discover brands from Japan.

SamFurthermore, Japanese brands offer an excellent balance of price and quality, so customers can feel they've received more than they paid for. This aligns with MR PORTER's goals, so the insights we gain from our research in Tokyo undoubtedly have an impact.

—It seems that not only your curated items but also your original label, "Mr P," are doing well.

FionaLaunched last November with the concept of "wardrobe essentials for men," such as blazers, jeans, and knitwear, it has been even more popular than we anticipated.

We just launched our third capsule collection for spring/summer in April, followed by a high-summer capsule in July, and an autumn collection in September. We also plan to expand the item lineup further.

—That's wonderful. I'm looking forward to the new developments starting in September.

FionaThe "Mr P" label is positioned as casual-contemporary in terms of style. The price point is also more accessible than the brands we carry at MR PORTER, making it easier to purchase.

One thing that surprised us after the launch was that customers who buy from brands like "Loro Piana," "Brunello Cucinelli," "Acne," and "Prada" also purchase "Mr P" items. They likely mix them with high-fashion pieces. This versatility is also a key feature of "Mr P."

MR PORTER itself is a site that proposes "style destinations," so beyond just offering high-fashion items, we want "Mr P" to focus on proposing basic items that emphasize details and quality, such as beautiful fabrics, excellent finishing, and superb craftsmanship.

We Continuously Strive to Remain a Unique Site

—MR PORTER's exclusive collections with high-fashion brands are also a major talking point. This spring saw the release of special items from "Bell & Ross," "Cartier," and "Prada" in succession. Why are these projects possible?

FionaOne factor is that many MR PORTER customers are digitally savvy and have no hesitation buying high-value items online. While luxury watch brands have had online stores before, they were often limited to regions like the US.

MR PORTER's global shipping capabilities have opened up various possibilities for different approaches. And then there's the "style destination" concept I mentioned earlier. The idea that both accessible sports watches and high-end fine watches are part of a man's wardrobe is what makes these projects possible at MR PORTER.

The most expensive items on the site,Bell & Rosswatches, all five models are special editions and have already become collector's items. The "Santos de Cartier" with its limited edition strap also sold out immediately upon launch.

SamFor "Prada," this is the first time a menswear capsule collectionlimited capsule collectionhas been sold online, as part of their Spring/Summer offerings. It started on April 25th and features 32 items.

—Do you have any plans for future initiatives, such as releasing limited capsule collections with Japanese brands?

SamWe've already done several limited editions and collaborations with Japanese brands, and we do plan to work on capsule collections in the future, but please keep that as something to look forward to. For us, special projects with individual brands are very important. We will always strive to ensure MR PORTER remains a unique site.

FionaWhat we are currently working on is approaching customers worldwide with better, localized offerings. By 2020, we plan to localize the site into the respective country's language. In terms of delivery services, we aim to establish infrastructure for faster shipping by opening offices in places like Japan and China in the future.

Fiona FIRTH
Buying Director overseeing all menswear and accessories at MR PORTER. After roles at Harvey Nichols and Reiss, she joined MR PORTER in 2016. She currently manages over 400 brands from the London office.

Sam LOBBAN
As Buying Manager, he leads a team of 15 across six buying sections, including designers, footwear, and sportswear. He joined MR PORTER in 2011. He currently lives in L.A. with his family and travels the world for buying and research.