LANVIN | Demi-Majeure: The Joy of Semi-Traditional Style
FASHION / FEATURES
March 2, 2015

LANVIN | Demi-Majeure: The Joy of Semi-Traditional Style


LANVIN


A Bridging Line Between Ready-to-Wear and Sur Mesure


Demi-Mesure──The Enjoyment of Semi-Traditional


The line that bridges ready-to-wear and sur mesure is Demi-Mesure (pattern order). This line, which blends classicism with modern cutting, is steadily gaining followers. It represents a customized approach to menswear, a new development rooted in the esteemed culture of handmade tailoring.


Text by LANVIN




※This article is largely reprinted from the Lanvin Men's Catalog.

※The Men's Catalog is available at the Lanvin Boutique Ginza.


A New Development Rooted in the Culture of Handmade Tailoring




Lanvin Demi-Mesure (Pattern Order) 02



“We strive for perfection in every detail, meticulously crafting each garment.” Frédéric Gherbebert, manager of Lanvin’s Demi-Mesure department, began to speak of his work at 15 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, his eyes gleaming with a sharp intensity.

His passionate discourse flowed without pause, utterly sincere. His manner of speaking revealed a man wholly dedicated to his proud craft. “I love this job. And I am proud to work for Lanvin. It is an irreplaceable and precious task to help our clients discover what they are looking for. Of course, I am pleased when I can see the results of my work with my own eyes, but the moments I feel most proud are when a Demi-Mesure suit fits a client perfectly, and when I feel I have contributed, even in a small way, to the reputation of this house,” he says.




Inheriting a Legacy of Global Creativity, Naturally Assertive



So, what exactly is Demi-Mesure?

Is it a simplified version of Lanvin’s pinnacle of expertise, Sur Mesure? Or should it be considered a superior form of ready-to-wear? What similarities does it share with Sur Mesure, and what advantages does it offer over the latter? Is it formally classic, or does it rather inherit the modernity of ready-to-wear?

“Lanvin’s style is constantly evolving and changing. It transforms without ever losing its classic authenticity or its consistency as a brand. Demi-Mesure is a line that, while inheriting a legacy of global creativity, asserts itself with natural grace. Furthermore, it is imbued with a strong identity that symbolizes the essence of the brand. It leverages the brand's strong appeal to offer a different world while inheriting the same spirit. Ready-to-wear and Demi-Mesure can be seen as complementary lines, both evoking a refined French touch and a love for detail, without ever overdoing it. Perhaps an image of understated yet accessible luxury comes to mind,” says Patrick Guichot, Director of Menswear Collections.

Lanvin’s Demi-Mesure is not entirely separate from ready-to-wear; it is a coexisting worldview. It is a link, or a bridge, accessible to all, built upon a journey spanning centuries, and it is also a line for fully enjoying the most contemporary style.

Lanvin Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-3289-2789 (Men's)
Tel. 03-3289-2788 (Women's)




LANVIN


A Bridging Line Between Ready-to-Wear and Sur Mesure


Demi-Mesure──The Enjoyment of Semi-Traditional (2)




Adjusting Every Detail to Fit the Individual's Physique



The link between the two was forged five years ago. It naturally followed Lanvin's move to develop more fashionable and design-conscious ready-to-wear, while retaining the same renowned quality inherited from its classic lines. With Demi-Mesure, it is not simply about tailoring a suit, but about fitting it to the individual's physique through adjustments to every detail, thus offering greater satisfaction to the customer.

Frédéric Gherbebert explains: “Even with ready-to-wear, jackets once came in three different lengths: short, medium, and long. But through periods of economic downturn, manufacturers simply stopped accommodating sizes outside the standard. Since then, Demi-Mesure has become an excellent way to compensate for this.” Indeed, many men find that standard sizes do not fit comfortably. For example, if you have a short, slightly stout torso, arms that are a bit short, and sloped shoulders, there is a significant risk that a ready-made jacket will not fit properly.

Demi-Mesure is the solution. At Lanvin, clients are measured using a sample kit as a base. Then, the fabric is cut with several elements already incorporated. The information is carefully recorded on an order form covering approximately 50 variations. “The gauge offers a wide drop range of 4 to 8 (the difference in measurement between the shoulder and the waist), and a variety of styles, from traditional cuts to slimmer fits for those seeking a more modern look. The tailor determines this drop value for each client. Unlike ready-to-wear, fittings are conducted while the suit is being made, allowing us to identify and correct any imperfections.”

Naturally, clients of Demi-Mesure can have their initials embroidered, choose stylistic options such as a two-button or three-button closure, or select details like the shape of the lapel, the finish of the buttonholes, and the color of the lining. Regarding fabrics, there are about 20 sample books, including general options and seasonal collections, offering a rich selection of 1,200 to 1,500 types.

A Crystal of 100% Lanvin Style and Sophistication, Skillfully Blended



“The quality of the fabric is an extremely important factor, both from the perspective of durability and aesthetic appeal. We do our utmost to advise clients so they can wear the garment comfortably, and also to avoid color combinations that would clash with Lanvin's elegant image. My mission is to communicate correctly with the client and guide them in the right direction. For example, if a client says, ‘This fabric is very expensive, but it seems prone to wrinkling,’ I carefully explain that it is important to consider its suitability for travel by plane, or for wear in hot or humid countries, before deciding based on price or appearance. I also explain that unfortunately, there is no fabric suitable for all situations, nor is there a fabric that is 100% wrinkle-free. I often use champagne as an analogy to explain the advantages of Demi-Mesure. Whether you drink champagne from a regular glass or a crystal flute, the contents are the same, but it tastes better from the latter. This is because the flute, despite being more expensive and fragile, combines sophistication and elegance, and the very act of drinking from it holds significant meaning,” says Frédéric Gherbebert.

Furthermore, Lanvin’s Demi-Mesure shirts are also offered through a logical system, with two patterns available—standard and slim—and a choice of different types of cuffs and collars, such as grosgrain. Adjustments are possible for the bust, waist, hips, sleeve length, and shoulder width, with a selection of approximately 300 types of fabric. The garment is completed in about 6 to 7 weeks. Further adjustments can then be made, and these adjustments are as follows:──It is a crucial adjustment for the customer to learn and understand how Lanvin 15 Faubourg masterfully completed the garment using its superior craftsmanship. Understanding the quality itself—the toile made from natural fibers like horsehair and camel hair, the parts meticulously sewn with cotton thread without any adhesive, the hand-stitched cotton shoulder pads that create a beautiful shoulder line, the cotton undercollar, and the Bemberg lining! And this is also a moment of profound joy, encountering a garment of ultimate sophistication, made exclusively for oneself. Demi-Mesure is indeed a crystal of 100% Lanvin style and sophistication, skillfully blended.



Lanvin Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-3289-2789 (Men's)
Tel. 03-3289-2788 (Women's)