Richard James's Visit to Japan: A Challenging Style That's Changing the World of Tradition
Fashion
March 5, 2015

Richard James's Visit to Japan: A Challenging Style That's Changing the World of Tradition


RICHARD JAMES
Challenging Styles That Changed the World of Tradition


Richard James Visits Japan Interview (1)


Savile Row is the name of a street in central London, and the birthplace of bespoke tailoring, home to the finest tailors. Savile Row has a long history, and its style has been preserved by traditional, craftsman-like tailors. However, the phrase “respecting tradition” also implied “rejecting change.”

With the rise of high fashion, Savile Row lost its vitality. Now, this once “antique” street is undergoing a major transformation. Young bespoke tailors are setting up shop one after another, proposing new styles of bespoke tailoring. We spoke with Richard James, Creative Director of RICHARD JAMES, one of the designers building this new era of Savile Row, who has elevated Savile Row suits to a more modern level with innovative patterns and vibrant color palettes, about the “now” of bespoke tailoring.


Text by OPENERSPhoto by JAMANDFIX




The most important thing is to give customers the experience of 'having a suit made'






—Did you want to change Savile Row as it was?

RJI believe Savile Row suits, made with superb craftsmanship, are perfect. And I have always respected Savile Row. Therefore, rather than wanting to change it, I strongly desired to let more people, including younger generations, experience this wonderful world.

—Isn't it a bit of a hurdle for young people?

Many Savile Row bespoke tailors are historic establishments, and their old-fashioned appearance has a unique atmosphere, so it can take a little courage to open the door. That's why we strive for an open and clean image to make our shop accessible to everyone.




Furthermore, we require the staff who first interact with customers in the shop to be knowledgeable not only about suits but also about fashion in general. We also have younger staff attend to younger customers to help them relax.
Having such staff is quite unusual for Savile Row. Normally, the person who cuts the fabric, known as the “cutter,” stands at the counter. While they have extensive tailoring knowledge and can offer advice, they often know only about the world of tailoring.

Our shop is different; we have staff with broad knowledge and a wide range of topics, including current affairs, trends, and fashion. By being able to engage in casual conversation and discuss trends, customers feel reassured, thinking, “This person will understand my needs.”

—Have you actually seen an increase in younger customers?

The average age has dropped to around 30. Some customers are as young as 18 to 20. We feel we are in a very good position among the many bespoke tailors right now. This is because we can propose challenging styles within classic designs that suit anyone, and that is something we are very pleased about.



—What is your commitment when tailoring bespoke suits?

For me, it's "fitting." When I make a suit for someone, the most important thing is to "best enhance" that person. To do that, a perfect fit is essential. Also, it is most important for the customer to choose and decide on the fabric, lining, number of pockets, and buttons for themselves, to have the experience of "having a suit made," and we provide advice for that.

—Did you have any reservations about presenting innovative designs within the historic Savile Row?

We believe we are designing within the framework of classic style. Whether it's a suit, shirt, or trousers, if we add newness while respecting the inherent form of the item, we consider it classic.




RICHARD JAMES
Challenging Styles That Changed the World of Tradition


Richard James Visits Japan Interview (2)




A Savile Row Suit Changes the Viewer's Perspective



—This season's theme is said to be flower motifs.

Actually, we are fusing two elements. We combined the colorful and peaceful flower motifs that are the theme with inspiration drawn from the 1960s film "if," which depicted the rebellious spirit born in British public schools. By combining two completely different elements, we express what happens when you juxtapose the established with the non-established. I think there's a similar aspect to ourselves, proposing something new within the established perfection of Savile Row.


RICHARD JAMES | Suit Jacket ¥79,800



RICHARD JAMES | Suit Jacket ¥97,650



—What does a suit represent for men?

First and foremost, I believe it's a sign of respect for the other person. It conveys a message that you are dressing appropriately for them, and if you are in a restaurant, it means you intend to enjoy the meal there. And the important point is that a suit enhances the wearer. By wearing something well-designed and dressing appropriately, I believe a person's good qualities can be further brought out.

—What is a Savile Row suit to you?

I opened my shop on Savile Row with the desire to "pursue the classic." Classic is different from high fashion. I wanted to create high-quality items that could be cherished for a long time, unaffected by trends. Savile Row is the very epitome of that.

Savile Row is, shall we say, a "path of excellence," a place where the street itself pursues excellence. Therefore, many of our customers are older or affluent, and naturally, the average age tends to be high. However, we wanted to appeal more to younger generations with the perfect Savile Row suit that enhances their individuality. We wanted to convey to those who were immersed in high fashion that these high-quality classic suits are also wonderful. It took some time, but I believe we have succeeded in that appeal.



Also, I wanted to offer a change of perspective, or rather, a new viewpoint. For example, if you wear a high-fashion brand suit to a party, your friends might say, "You look great, that's a [Brand Name] suit, isn't it?" However, if that person were wearing our suit, the conversation would shift from the brand name to, "You look great today, where is that from?"

What I mean by "enhancing" is precisely that: a Savile Row suit is not one that says, "You look great *because* you're wearing a high-fashion brand suit," but rather, it's a suit that changes the viewer's perspective, making them say, "You look great today." I feel that this kind of value is increasingly being born among people recently.




—What are your future prospects?

I would like to open another store in Tokyo, perhaps in an area like Marunouchi, where there are many people with a high regard for suits. Tokyo has a long history of bespoke tailoring, and I believe there are many excellent tailors.

I believe that Tokyo's bespoke tailoring, like Savile Row, can grow further in the future. It's certainly not an easy task, but the spirit behind it is paramount.

If you don't yet own a bespoke suit, please visit "Richard James" at least once. Let us create a suit for you that will enhance your individuality.

—Thank you very much.





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Richard James

Founded in 1992 by Richard James and Sean Dixon, RICHARD JAMES is a bespoke tailor. Richard James, who directs all of the brand's creative output, has led the brand to the forefront of the historic British tailoring world in just 15 years with unprecedented innovative designs.

Its designs, said to have changed the history of Savile Row, sublimate eternal classics into modern forms by applying vibrant color palettes and bold patterns to the traditional British silhouette, which is based on a single-breasted front, a tapered waist, and long double vents. For his contributions to menswear, Richard James was honored with the prestigious "Menswear Designer of the Year" award by the British Fashion Council at London Fashion Week in February 2001.



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RICHARD JAMES
1F Galleria, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours | 11:00–21:00
Tel. 03-5413-0054
www.richardjames.jp