Onitsuka Tiger | Interview with Design Director Toshikazu Iwaya

Onitsuka Tiger

“From Japan to the World” – The Sporty Fashion Brand Onitsuka Tiger is Reborn

An Interview with Design Director Toshikazu Iwaya

Fashion designer Toshikazu Iwaya took the helm as Design Director for "Onitsuka Tiger" starting with the 2010 Autumn/Winter collection. The "Direction Line," designed under Iwaya's thematic direction, is already generating buzz for both men's and women's lines. We spoke with Iwaya about the launch of the new Onitsuka Tiger.

Text by OPENERSPhotos by Emiko Hara

Basic, Yet Universally Understandable

──Let's start with when you first received the offer from Onitsuka Tiger.

I've always liked items with a sporty feel, and I had a clear image of both Onitsuka Tiger and ASICS, so I felt I could take on various challenges.

──What kind of image do you have of Onitsuka Tiger?

The image of the shoes is particularly strong. I see them often overseas, and they have a retro design, embodying the image of Japanese sneakers. I've always liked and worn ASICS' "Japan" basketball shoes.

──What about the image of the apparel (wear)?

I didn't really have one. Since there wasn't a strong apparel image, I thought, "This is something I'd love to do."

──In this first 2010 Autumn/Winter collection, "Tiger Mask" makes an appearance.

I received the offer to become director around April of last year, and I was actively working by June. For Tiger Mask, I wanted to incorporate an element of playfulness, and the connection between "tiger" and "Tiger Mask" immediately came to mind, so I first approached the rights holders of Tiger Mask.

──What is your vision of Tiger Mask?

I loved drawing him as a child. It was the original Tiger Mask that got me into professional wrestling. For this first season, I wanted to focus on prints, which I'm good at, and chose Tiger Mask as a subject because it's basic yet universally understandable. Besides Tiger Mask, I've also worked on arrangements of camouflage and stripes, which are representative patterns in fashion. In the future, I want to create prints that align with the brand's colors.

Beyond the "Framework" of Sports, Anything Goes as Long as it's Authentic

──What are the characteristics of Onitsuka Tiger under your direction?

Since it's the first season, I wanted to blend Onitsuka's retro image and basic elements with future direction. I focused on adding newness through color, pattern, and silhouette to styles that combine windbreakers with leggings.

Onitsuka Tiger | Tiger Mask | 2010 Autumn/Winter Collection | Toshikazu Iwaya

──Were you conscious of wearability in town or on the street?

I want people to decide how they wear it in town or on the street themselves, so this time, I'm proposing simple and iconic styles. They can actually be worn for sports, as well as for everyday activities like cycling, walking, or hiking.

──What about the functionality expected of a sports brand?

Onitsuka Tiger has high standards for functionality and quality, so I trust them in that regard. Much of my previous work prioritized design, but here, quality is paramount, even above design. The attention to detail unique to a sports brand, the "they even consider this" aspect, is a valuable learning experience for me.

──For you, who often designs women's dresses, isn't working with Onitsuka Tiger a fresh experience?

There are connecting elements, though. Because there's a "framework" of sports, I feel that anything done within that framework is authentic. The combination of a windbreaker, leggings, and sneakers is quite fresh for the street.

Expressing the Essence of Modern Japan

──When you took on the role of director, did you delve into the brand's archives?

Onitsuka Tiger is perhaps the only sports brand in Japan with such a rich history. Researching the past revealed that they've created an incredible range of items, with many captivating graphics that I've incorporated into T-shirts this season. I want to highlight these aspects.

──The visual for your first season as director (top left) is a very direct expression, isn't it?

I'd be happy if people could feel the message when they see it.

──Onitsuka Tiger's theme is "From Japan to the World." Does this resonate with your creative approach?

I believe that if a creation originates from being Japanese and living in Japan, it's inherently a Japanese発信 (hasshin - originating from). The theme now is how to clearly convey the essence of modern Japan. Onitsuka Tiger has a significant global share, so for the Direction Line I'm handling, I've made the message clear and easy to understand, and I'm looking forward to the reactions.

──Finally, a message to your fans.

The first collection will be available in stores from July, so please come and see it, and try it on. For the upcoming 2011 Spring/Summer season, I plan to incorporate more colors.

──Thank you very much.

Toshikazu Iwaya
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1974. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College's Apparel Design Department, Men's Course in 1995, he joined At-One's Inc., specializing in print textiles, in 1996. In 2002, he launched the brand "Dresscamp" from the same company. He debuted at Tokyo Collection for the 2003 Spring/Summer season. In 2004, he received a double award: the 22nd Mainichi Fashion Grand Prize for Newcomer and the Shiseido Incentive Award, along with the Moët & Chandon Newcomer Award. In 2008, he established IWY Inc. and launched the new brand "IWAYA FOR DRESS33," presenting the 2009 Spring/Summer collection in Paris and Tokyo. In April 2009, he signed a contract with ASICS as Design Director. In addition to designing some top models in the competitive sports sector for the ASICS brand, he is responsible for the design of the sports fashion field, primarily for the popular Onitsuka Tiger brand, especially in Europe.