CRAM JAM CHEST | Interview with Designer Yusuke Noguchi

CRAM JAM CHEST

Designer Yusuke Noguchi Interview

Yusuke Noguchi, the designer who established "CRAM JAM CHEST" in 2006 after serving as division chief for the fashion brand "gomme." Many have likely been captivated by the myriad "expressions" born from his approach that bridges fashion and art. Why did he choose this method of expression? His true intentions are revealed now.

Text by OPENERSPhoto by Jamandfix

Not Stuffed Animals, but Art Pieces

OPENERSFirst, Mr. Noguchi, we'd like to ask about the transition of your design focus from fashion to craft-oriented art pieces. What prompted this change?

NoguchiI was originally involved in the apparel industry for about five and a half years. During that time, I began to question the flatness of clothing. Even when creating clothing as a three-dimensional object, everything had to be reduced to a two-dimensional pattern. When I thought, "Is this truly three-dimensional?" I concluded that a "flat surface conforming to a three-dimensional shape" is not a true three-dimensional object.

In other words, I realized that if one can imagine a three-dimensional form in their mind, it's possible to create clothing from a flat pattern. For example, a painting is flat, but a sculpture is three-dimensional. I wondered, "Isn't it impossible to express sculpture through clothing?" Furthermore, since I only knew how to express things through fabric for clothing, I asked myself, "What is a true three-dimensional object?" The result of that self-inquiry led to my current expression: "stuffed animals." However, I don't call them stuffed animals. I want them to be perceived as art pieces.

OPENERSThis is encapsulated in your concept: "Using a pattern-based approach to express subjects as easily understandable three-dimensional objects." When creating your art pieces, do you research actual animals?

NoguchiYes, I do. I study things like the healthy posture of animals—how they stand correctly, how their tails curl, how their necks are positioned—and incorporate that into my creations. I don't want people who live with cats or dogs to tell me, "That's not right" (laughs). However, I don't pursue excessive realism. I also want to incorporate the cuteness of stuffed animals.

OPENERSWhy did you incorporate materials from vintage jeans and army surplus items? The fabric itself has a unique character and already seems like a one-of-a-kind piece...

NoguchiI use vintage denim and army materials. No two vintage items are exactly alike. I wanted to imbue my art pieces with the appeal of these one-of-a-kind vintage items. Also, I found it interesting how items created by utilizing the lines and parts of the material itself could surpass my own imagination.

OPENERSIt seems you have a strong commitment to patterns.

NoguchiI do. I use 50 pattern pieces. When cut, that becomes 100 parts. While T-shirts have allowances, stuffed animals do not. They must be sewn perfectly.
I visited factories one by one in the Kanto region, but the artisans at the factories turned me down, saying, "The patterns are too complex to produce."

OPENERSSo, these are not mass-produced items?

NoguchiThat's right. With 50 pattern pieces, and seam allowances for each, mass production in a factory would require at least five or six instructions per part. With clothing, you can give clear instructions like "front bodice..." but now it's "the sole of the foot..." (laughs). That's why my art pieces are never produced on a mass-production line.

OPENERSIn terms of production, do you sketch out the designs?

NoguchiFor the facial expressions, I do sketch, but I primarily create them by assembling patterns through trial and error. At the same time, I consider the materials. For example, "Let's use wood chips for the legs to make them stand firmly."

OPENERSSince they have such expressive faces, don't you feel a pang of sadness when they leave your care?

NoguchiI do. Especially with pieces that have eyes. I always create the face last.

OPENERSNow in your third year as "CRAM JAM CHEST," have you been able to blur the lines between clothing and art pieces? Do you ever feel like creating clothing again?

NoguchiThere are no lines. They are one and the same now. As for clothing, I'm interested in it for myself to wear, but I no longer have the desire to create clothing. It would be like straying from these children (the stuffed animals), so I don't feel the urge to make them.

OPENERSDo you have any future aspirations or goals?

NoguchiI want to continue creating beyond clothing, while maintaining my focus on form and objects. I am also currently making handmade art pieces. "CRAM JAM CHEST" also means treasure chest, and with that sentiment, I want to explore possibilities and create even more captivating pieces.

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