MARGARET HOWELL | Exploring the Appeal of Margaret Howell

MARGARET HOWELL

A Roundtable Discussion: The Appeal of Margaret Howell

What is the appeal of Margaret Howell? At first glance, her clothes, which are not overtly flashy or colorful, can be perceived as niche, but is that really the case? We asked Masahiko Ito of United Arrows, who has interacted with the brand as a buyer, and Manako Sugimoto, a stylist renowned for her menswear styling despite being a woman, along with Motoki Kinebuchi, who handles PR for Margaret Howell, to discuss the brand's charm.

Photo by SHINOHARA Hiroaki

── Your First Encounter

ItoI first learned about Margaret Howell when I was in high school, seeing it in a magazine and thinking it was nice. I believe it was a shirt. My impression was of clothes that were simple yet designed.

Motoki Kinebuchi of Anglobal

SugimotoI first learned about it when I was about middle school age. My older brother always wore Margaret Howell clothes. Perhaps because of that, I still have a menswear image of Margaret Howell.

KinebuchiI first saw it in a magazine when I was in high school too. My impression at the time was that they were good clothes, but also expensive (laughs). I was actually able to buy them when I became a university student. I still have that shirt. It's still perfectly wearable.

ItoBasically, they haven't changed. The pattern making and sizing have changed slightly, but the basic foundation hasn't changed much.

KinebuchiThe fabrics and buttons haven't changed.

ItoWhen I decided to handle it for work, I was set on shirts. If I were to convey anything about Margaret Howell to customers, it would be shirts.

KinebuchiSince the brand started with men's shirts, they are an iconic item for the brand. They even have their own factory for shirts.

SugimotoLike everyone else, I have the image of Margaret Howell being synonymous with shirts. I was surprised at first to learn it was designed by a woman. When I style menswear, I find that women and men seek different things from clothing. The fact that a woman who doesn't actually wear these clothes herself creates them must have involved great effort, and knowing that she pursued this so deliberately made me like her even more.

ItoThat's what's amazing about Margaret. For menswear, it's about designing functionality. I don't know of many other women doing that.

And having fans is precious. She does it because she loves it, not for business. It just happens to be good business as a result. I think that's remarkable.

KinebuchiCompared to womenswear, which has a wide variety of items, menswear naturally has fewer styles, so perhaps the attention to detail and uncompromising aspects stand out even more.

── Being British

SugimotoMy image hasn't changed significantly since I started using them in my styling.

Masahiko Ito of BEAUTY&YOUTH UNITED ARROWS

But it's rare for a shirt from several years ago to still feel fresh when worn today. Even looking back over the years, it's clothing that remains unchanged, yet somehow evolves. It's clothing that 'wants to be worn.' I often style older clients, and their reactions when I show them the clothes are naturally positive. It's wonderful.

ItoMargaret Howell is fine just as it is. Adding anything superfluous would dilute the brand's image and its inherent quality. So, it's best left as is. If I had to say anything, perhaps I'd wish for more items made in the UK.

KinebuchiCurrently, shirts made in the UK are only available at select stores, including the one in Jinnan.

Manako Sugimoto, Stylist

ItoWithin a single shirt, there's a balance of elements that retain a British feel and those that don't. It's not entirely British. That's what's so appealing (laughs). As a woman, she understands these nuances very well. That balance is excellent.

SugimotoWhen we say British, we immediately think of tradition. The use of wool and tweed, for example. It has a weightiness yet lightness that no other brand possesses. Three-piece suits are similar, aren't they?

KinebuchiWaistcoats (vests) are items that appear every season without fail.

SugimotoI've visited the London store, and it too has a traditional feel. There are many marble buildings in the vicinity. But inside, it opens up into a minimalist space with a completely different image. I found that aspect to be 'new' as well.

ItoShe retains the essential British elements that shouldn't be altered, while expressing the non-essential parts in a new way. It's the same with the clothes. I feel this when I look at the selection and styling.

── The Designer, Margaret Howell

KinebuchiMargaret Howell herself skillfully incorporates menswear elements into her own style. Her height probably helps her pull it off. I think men could wear her outfits as is and look stylish.

Of course, she does wear dresses sometimes, but she usually opts for menswear-inspired looks. Her approach feels less like a fashion designer and more like a product designer or architect.

ItoThat's probably because she prioritizes functionality above all else.

KinebuchiShe says that anyone can make something look good by adding more elements, so the key is to make it look fresh with minimal additions. It's about achieving beauty through subtraction.

SugimotoI think people who don't know would be surprised to learn a woman designed these clothes. Isn't that part of why they're so well-received? If femininity were too pronounced, I don't think men would accept it. Clothes made by women often feel like the designer hasn't 'worn' them herself, leading to a 'Is this really okay?' reaction. But with her, you don't get that feeling. I truly believe they are clothes for someone who 'knows.' They're also easy to mix and match with other brands.

ItoThat's an important function, isn't it? While there are inherent functions like protection from the elements, the ability to pair them with anything suggests clothing designed for modern life.