Laula Designer Setsuko Nakajima: An Interview (Part 1)
Fashion
April 8, 2015

Laula Designer Setsuko Nakajima: An Interview (Part 1)


2009-10 Autumn/Winter: Featured Fashion Designers


Laula Designer Setsuko Nakajima: An Interview (Part 1)


Effortlessly Edgy, Clothing That Cherishes Femininity


The name "Laula" is a fictional woman's name, embodying the theme of her ever-changing wardrobe each season. She is a woman with her own style, even if influenced by moods or the prevailing atmosphere. "Laula" consistently expresses this very image of a woman. How did Setsuko Nakajima, who continues to create pieces that are both supple and impeccably structured, become a designer?

Interview and Text by Chika TsushimaPhotography by Emiko Hara




A Series of Fortunate Coincidences Led to the Birth of "Laula"



Could you start by telling us what first drew you to clothing?

My mother enjoyed sewing. When I was little, she made matching dresses for my sister and me. She didn't just make them for special occasions like piano recitals, but also for everyday wear, like skirts.
Also, my aunt used to send me clothes regularly, and they were so stylish and cute. They had details like a matching pouch with a dress, or three-dimensional appliqués, which were unusual for children's clothes at the time. I think I was in the lower grades of elementary school when older students would often compliment me, saying they were "cute." That's probably when I started paying attention to fashion, or rather, when my awareness turned towards it.

As you grew, did your feelings about clothes deepen?

Yes. My older sister, who grew up in the same environment, also liked fashion, so I'd read the fashion magazines she bought. I just loved clothes. So, I attended a fashion design vocational school for three years to study design.
After graduating, I worked as a sales associate at several select shops. Then, someone from United Arrows approached me, asking if I'd like to work for them.




So you were headhunted?

It also helped that we had a mutual acquaintance. After moving to United Arrows, I met Yoko Sato, the designer of "Pippi," and Kaoru Yoneyama, the designer of "Kaon."

The Shibuya store was on Meiji Dori, and that's where I first worked, alongside Yoneyama-san. Later, I transferred to the Harajuku store, and that's when Sato-san joined the company.

The two of them weren't working at the same United Arrows store, but they seemed to be old friends and reunited there. It was quite a coincidence.

Normally, it seems difficult to transition from being a sales associate to a designer. How did you make that leap from sales to design?


Setsuko Nakajima




I always had an ambition (laughs) to do something, not necessarily as a designer, but somewhere in my heart. Even so, I never really had the opportunity.

I happened to have a friend who ran a select shop, and when they were opening a women's boutique, I started working there, which became a turning point. Besides store management and overseas sourcing, I gradually started designing original products, and for about three years, I learned the mechanisms of the apparel industry.

One day, a friend said, "I'll introduce you to some customers, why don't you try displaying your own products?" and invited me to an exhibition. I created about 10 pieces within my savings and displayed them. To my surprise, I received orders.

So, good coincidences piled up.

They really did. If I hadn't been given the chance to display my products at that exhibition, "Laula" would never have started. I was incredibly lucky, and I'm still grateful when I think about it.

With a Foundation in What You Love, Creation Remains Unwavering



Could you tell us about the theme for the Autumn/Winter 2009 collection?

This season, I wanted to create something based on a mix of elegance and femininity, with added edgy nuances and a touch of rock influence. While staying true to "Laula's" brand concept of a "dignified woman," I designed it by balancing femininity with a harder edge.



Loop-knit bolero: ¥33,600





Even a single part can change the overall feel, so with the studs, instead of making them glitter ostentatiously, I smoked them to give them a subdued texture, paying attention to the details.

What were the main materials used this season?

In addition to wools like camel and sequins, I also used unusual textiles such as tweed layered with organza, and jacquards that resemble carpets.
I generally don't pay too much attention to the season; if a material is beautiful, I'll use it year-round.


Beyond this season, where do you primarily draw inspiration for "Laula's" creations?

My design process is fundamentally about incorporating what I want to wear while valuing my current mood and atmosphere. I might look at magazines and think, "What kind of clothes would suit this person?" but I don't set a theme and then design. Often, the material comes first, and I develop the image from there.
Because I have a core of what I love, the image doesn't drastically change from season to season, but I do want to evolve in a good way.



Which brings you more joy: the moment a piece is completed, or when you receive many orders?

Hmm, that's difficult. I'm simply happy at both moments, when a piece is finished and when I receive orders.

When my "children," born from rough sketches, fabric selection, and meticulous attention to detail, receive high praise, I feel incredibly happy, and it fuels my next collection.

Having many orders means my designs are more likely to be seen on the street. There's nothing more rewarding for a designer than spotting someone wearing something I've designed.


Lame jacquard skirt: ¥30,450




Are items that are distinctly "Laula" more likely to receive orders?

That depends on the customer. It has to be something where the quality and price are balanced. Price is also a major factor influencing orders.

Laula Designer Setsuko Nakajima: An Interview (Part 2)To be continued






Retailers

United Arrows Main Store Women's Building
Tel. 03-3479-8176
Isetan Shinjuku Store, 4F Re-Style
Tel. 03-3225-2558
Aquagirl Shinjuku
Tel. 03-5908-4718
Estnation Product Call Center
Tel. 03-5220-0205