Fashion
March 19, 2015
An Interview with Pippi Designer Yoko Sato (Part 1)
Spotlight on Fashion Designers: Fall/Winter 2009-10
Three Iconic Designs This Season
Pippi Designer Yoko Sato: An Interview (Part 1)
Lately, Tokyo-based brands have been on a roll. It's true that the creations of designers who intuitively grasp the current mood of Tokyo are precisely reflecting what we're looking for. Openers is launching a new series, "Spotlight on Fashion Designers: Fall/Winter 2009-10," focusing on the designers of Tokyo's hottest brands to explore the wellsprings of their creativity.
We spoke with Yoko Sato, the designer behind the shoe brand "Pippi," which garners envious admiration from fashion-conscious women.
Interview & Text: Chika TsushimaPhotography: Emiko Hara
I Love the Process of Ideas Taking Shape
—Pippi's shoes often feature striking motifs, like voluminous corsages or ribbon details on the heel. Where do you draw inspiration for your designs?
It starts with finding materials I like. I begin by thinking, 'How can I design this to bring out the best qualities of this material?' Sometimes I'm inspired by movies or music, but if the material isn't decided, it's hard to imagine the finished product. So, materials play a very significant role in my shoemaking.
For design, I have to think about a year ahead, so I proceed by gauging the flow of the world while also considering my own reactions. My own senses serve as the yardstick.
—Do designs come to you spontaneously?
It depends on the season. Extremes exist: some items come together in about 10 minutes, while others can be quite challenging.
—Personally, I have a strong image of Pippi's corsage pumps. Did that design come to you quickly?
That one came quickly. I was in a flower shop, and looking down at a flower with densely packed petals, I thought the petals looked like ruffles, and that image stayed with me. I also love ribbons, so I started playing around, wondering if I could combine them into something, and it just happened (laughs).
—Besides materials and inspiration, what else do you consider when designing?
The mood of each season is also important. You wouldn't want to buy something that doesn't fit the mood, right? Comfort is also crucial, so I create new lasts every season and pay attention to the silhouette. Regarding foot width, if the foot isn't in pain and there are no issues, a slender form makes the foot look more elegant. But everyone's foot shape is unique, so that's always a challenge. It's a constant process of trial and error.
—The lasts are made to fit Japanese feet, aren't they?
Yes. However, Pippi's overall design tends to be slender. I check them on my own feet, and since mine are relatively narrow, they naturally end up that way. I make adjustments, thinking, 'Perhaps I should make the width a little wider than my own foot...' I have my own sense for it.
—What part of the production process do you enjoy the most?
Choosing materials and thinking about designs that utilize them are interesting, but I find the process most enjoyable when the samples, from the first to the second and beyond, gradually approach my ideal as we get closer to the final product. I especially like the final stages; in the early parts, I tend to focus only on the flaws (laughs).
Inspired by Strong, Graceful Women
—Does the Fall/Winter 2009 collection have a theme?
Sometimes there isn't an explicitly stated theme for a season, but this season, we had the theme of 'fetish.' A woman who is strong yet feminine, gracefully strong.
I wanted to express the idea that while individual elements like diamonds, metal, and pearls have delicate brilliance, their combination creates power. However, it's not about being a power woman, so I focused on using them subtly.
—Are the main shoes for this season the pumps adorned with abundant bijoux?
Yes. Also, there are short boots with chains, and engineer boots with heels added to make them wearable for adults. These three are the iconic pieces for this season.
—Is leather still the primary material for this season?
For this season, yes. It might contradict what I said earlier, but with leather, I sometimes choose the material based on the design. However, even with cowhide, the texture varies greatly depending on the processing, so I was very meticulous.
—Do you plan the lineup each season with careful consideration?

Yoko Sato
Each season, I consider the overall direction, but I don't set a specific number of styles or a grand theme; I'm very free (laughs). I have my own way of perceiving a season, and while I have a structure in mind, I create based on the ideas that come to me. So, during production, I often can't see the complete picture. That's a bit frightening, wondering if it will turn out okay (laughs).
When I see all the completed samples near the exhibition, the overall vision I had in my mind has taken shape, and I feel relieved, thinking, 'It wasn't wrong after all' (laughs).

Retailers
Isetan Shinjuku Store, 4F Re-Style
Tel. 03-3225-2558
United Arrows Main Store, Women's Building
Tel. 03-3479-8176
AQuAGIRL Laforet Aoyama Store
Tel. 03-5414-1260
Estnation Product Call Center
Tel. 03-5220-0205
United Arrows Fall/Winter Catalog is Here!
Starting Friday, August 28th, customers who make a purchase at United Arrows stores nationwide will receive
the 2009-10 Fall/Winter catalog, "PORTRAIT OF UNITED ARROWS 2009 FALL AND WINTER."
Yoko Sato of Pippi is also featured in a column interview in this commemorative catalog for UA's 20th anniversary!
Please visit UNITED ARROWS.

