Part 2: The Infinite Potential of Jewelry
Fashion
March 12, 2015

Part 2: The Infinite Potential of Jewelry


nineSIXty Hiroaki Kato


Vol. 2: The Infinite Potential of Jewelry


By Taishi Sato (Gringo)Photos by Kei Uzawa





"Lucien Pellat-Finet" (18K/Yellow Gold/Skull With Diamond)
This ring is a sample piece that Mr. Lucien Pellat-Finet has seen.



A Collection Born from Countless Trials and Errors



Since all nineSIXty pieces are custom-made, we meticulously craft each detail to match the client's desired form. When ordering through our website, the basic process involves selecting the type of leather, stitch color, and the mineral to be set within. However, when meeting clients in person to take orders, I consider their personal style and musical preferences, incorporating their personality into the design.

For example, we might vary the thickness and spacing of the side stitching on a ring, or alter the size of the face where the mineral is set. Even if clients choose the same color scheme or mineral, no two pieces are ever alike; each is a unique, one-of-a-kind design. To broaden the scope of customization, I make it a daily practice to constantly explore new possibilities in materials and crafting techniques.


The base piece, set with leather ordered by the client.
(Back) Rose Gold & Diamond, (Middle) Silver Two Cross & Diamond X Pink Sapphire, (Front) Silver Two Cross & Diamond X Diamond




Lizard leather base and the piece set into the leather.




Base joined by adhesion and pressure bonding.



I'm actually not very good at drawing, but when it comes to what I want to create, I have a clear, three-dimensional image in my mind. The process involves repeated trial and error to bring the actual jewelry as close as possible to that ideal. In doing so, I strive to imagine freely from various angles, without being confined to a single perspective or way of thinking. I believe this can be applied not just to accessories and design, but also to fields like film or literature. Jewelry, by its nature, has no fixed form. I believe it's important to pursue beauty as it is, unbound by anything. Jewelry can take any shape and holds infinite possibilities. That's what I find so fascinating.


"Rose Gold Full Star & Diamond" (Pink Lizard Leather X Yellow Seam)



Allow me to introduce some of nineSIXty's signature models. First is the Full Star model. It features a star relief carved into an oval face, with options to set diamonds or other minerals within. The base can be chosen from materials like rose gold or silver. A variation includes a larger star design. The models with set minerals, featuring a checkerboard cut, are new creations from 2006. Using materials such as onyx and turquoise, these pieces showcase beautiful, multifaceted light reflections. They were quite challenging to get just right.

Crafting Lucien Pellat-Finet's First Jewelry Line



One of nineSIXty's popular designs is the model featuring Lucien Pellat-Finet's skull motif. In 2004, Lucien Pellat-Finet decided to launch his first jewelry line to commemorate the 10th anniversary of his Paris Collection. I had the opportunity to meet him during his visit to Japan. When I showed him a ring I had created with a skull motif, he seemed very pleased. As each piece is handmade, I explained that production volume would be limited. Nevertheless, I was commissioned to create the rings to be sold at Lucien Pellat-Finet's flagship store.

I received skull image data from France and made subtle adjustments to achieve the most aesthetically pleasing form when translated into jewelry. Personally, I initially found the skull motif a bit too rugged for my taste, but Lucien Pellat-Finet's skull has a gentle, delicate expression that I grew to appreciate. Working with Lucien Pellat-Finet was a truly wonderful encounter for me.
And Mr. Lucien Pellat-Finet himself gave me the naming.
"nineSIXty for Lucien Pellat-Finet" – one of my most treasured possessions.


"nineSIXty tnybangle" (Silver X White Seam & Horsehide X Brown Seam)



Currently, my main focus is on crafting silver bangles. This design originated from a casual conversation with stylist Ms. Hida, and it has now become a reality. I've taken on the unprecedented challenge of applying stitching to silver. I initially thought it might be impossible, but after a month of work, I've managed to bring it to this stage. My goal is to further refine the design through weight reduction and other enhancements.

In the next installment, I would like to introduce Ms. Azusa Yoshikawa, a designer I am currently very interested in, who also happens to be my wife.

nineSIXty