With a limited color palette, the choice of materials stands out

My impression of this season's Margaret Howell men's collection is that the colors were quite restricted. I heard that 'tone-on-tone' – unifying the overall color scheme – was a major theme. The palette was mainly subdued, centering on blue-ish grays, navy, and beige, with personal touches of mustard or orange as accent colors. Because the color variations were limited, the selection of materials really stood out.

Additionally, the jacket chosen for this set, which can be worn as separates, features a back with no seams. It's a classic type reminiscent of old workwear, but the silhouette is a modern, boxy cut – a signature Margaret Howell 'clever' adaptation.

From the feet up: attention to changes in overall proportion

In the Spring/Summer season, it's difficult to create depth through layering. However, the coordination of shorts presented on the Margaret Howell runway, for example, looks simple at first glance. But by buttoning the first button of the shirt to emphasize the clean collar line, or by pairing linen socks with substantial Tricker's chukka boots in full-grain leather, the overall look is tightened by adding a solid weight at the feet. Combined with the textural variations, it's a sophisticated styling.

There are also subtle touches, like using a linen scarf as an accent. The shorts, which will be useful in the coming season, are seeing a gradual return to a longer length, moving away from the recent trend of shorter hemlines; for this styling, they've been cuffed once. This single fold adds weight, and the linen socks and substantial shoes become key points, visibly altering the overall proportion.

The shorts used in this coordination have a classic beltless form and are made from a crisp cotton-linen blend, giving them a refined, rather than overly casual, feel.

An exquisite set-up for elevated casual wear

When putting together the styling for this shoot, the patch-pocket jacket and matching trousers set was something I personally wanted to wear. The jacket has a slim, sharp silhouette, and the trousers are also narrow. Paired with a collarless pullover shirt, as seen on the model, it offers a dressy feel akin to a suit while remaining relaxed – a look suitable for any occasion, whether for work or leisure.

The trend shifts from boyishness to mature masculinity

In men's fashion trends overall, there's a move towards classic styles, with a revival of 80s and 90s aesthetics, and a resurgence of suits. The focus is shifting from a casual, boyish image to that of a mature, seasoned man. This spring, it's about a man who can skillfully wear linen.

The 'MARGARET HOWELL × BARACUTA,' an adaptation by Margaret Howell of the original 'G3' – the prototype of the quintessential British blouson (swing top) – photographed here, offers a fresh take that can make one look endearingly 'older' in the best sense, depending on how it's worn. The design isn't cinched at the hem, making it easy to wear, and it would look particularly cool styled with Steve McQueen as an inspiration.

Naoki Ikeda
Freelance since 2000. Expanded his creative scope based in NYC from 2005-06. A stylist and fashion director who presents unique and modern aesthetics through numerous magazines, brand catalogs, advertisements, and shows, earning high trust across various fields. Also known for his expertise in outdoor life products, ceramics, woodwork, and art.
http://www.naokiikeda.com/

Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp