Fashion
January 29, 2015
Aiming for Borderless Design (Part 1)
Masaaki Iemori, Designer of BROWN BUNNY: An Interview
Striving for Borderless Design (Part 1)
BROWN BUNNY is establishing itself as a leading underwear brand.
Today, the brand offers not only underwear but also stylish, relaxed loungewear and yoga wear, captivating many fans with their exceptional comfort.
As BROWN BUNNY enters its third year since its establishment in 2009, where is the brand headed?
We spoke with designer Masaaki Iemori about the brand's concept, the development of original fabrics, and future plans.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by Jamandfix
Could you tell us about BROWN BUNNY's design concept?
As you know, we started with underwear.
The brand launched in Spring/Summer 2006. At that time, the 'IT bubble' had burst, popular street brands were starting to disappear, the hype around high fashion like Dior Homme was cooling down, and there was a general sense of stagnation in the fashion industry. I wanted to do something different.
I decided to take a new approach rather than just selling clothes.
I was around 27 or 28 when I started the brand. At that age, I had experienced a lot with clothing and was beginning to seek inner richness over material satisfaction.
So, I thought about what the next trend would be, and it struck me: 'underwear.' I wanted to create a brand centered on underwear that was fashionable yet highly functional – something that seemed to be missing.
At that time, I wanted to make everything close to the skin, starting with underwear, comfortable and integrated into daily life, and to find richness in the everyday. That's how the brand concept 'The Love of Life' came about.
I wanted the concept to be broad, allowing for future additions. We aimed for a brand that was sharp and stylish, yet neither overtly masculine nor feminine, and exuded a sense of cleanliness.
The underwear industry at the time was shifting from dominance by well-funded brands to the emergence of domestic labels. However, most of these brands featured flashy, impactful designs.
Therefore, we decided to focus on a direction that was simple, comfortable, and timeless in design.

I personally disliked the idea of being identified with a specific brand ── so, rather than emphasizing the brand logo, I wanted to compete on comfort and quality of construction, with a more understated approach.
While patterned underwear has become more common recently, we maintain a standard of elegance and cleanliness, allowing ourselves creative freedom within those boundaries.
Lately, you've expanded into loungewear like jersey items and outerwear. Are there any particular considerations in your design approach?
It's still about not being overly assertive in the design.
It's a subtle assertion, aiming for borderless designs that are accessible to everyone, regardless of gender or age. I think 'Muji' represents the ultimate in this. Muji items are ordinary yet refined. However, that can lead to a lack of distinctiveness, so I incorporate my own sense of trends each season.
Furthermore, for loungewear, we focus on balancing comfort and ease of movement with a beautiful silhouette when worn.
To put it dramatically, we pay meticulous attention to the silhouette, down to the millimeter, every season. I don't think clothes that look strictly like loungewear are necessary. I strive for designs that blur the lines between indoor and outdoor wear. They should look good on women, young men, or even older gentlemen. There aren't many brands that can appeal to such a wide range of ages and genders.
My hope is to create designs that enhance the wearer's individuality, ultimately bringing out their inner richness and personality.

They are generally unprinted, which makes them feel universally wearable.
Regarding 'comfort,' how do you select your fabrics?
The most important factors are a pleasant feel against the skin and stretchability.
For underwear and jersey materials, we use original fabrics developed through close collaboration with the factory from the knitting stage.
Honestly, these fabrics are so focused on comfort that they don't fit our cost targets at all. However, the desire to provide uncompromising products to our customers is far stronger.
Starting this season (09 Spring/Summer), we've also introduced woven items like chino pants. These incorporate polyurethane and undergo a washing process to enhance their stretchability.
For items like nylon blousons, which have limited natural stretch, we incorporate action pleats in the shoulders or use stretchable materials in areas requiring movement, ensuring ease of motion throughout the product line.
While the comfort of cashmere is appealing for knitwear, we question its suitability for daily wear. Therefore, we focus on craftsmanship, such as using high-quality wool that's mercerized to eliminate itchiness and knitted using seamless whole-garment technology, not just the material itself.
Since we started with underwear worn daily, I want to avoid creating daily wear that deteriorates quickly.
That's why I choose durable materials that also feel good to the touch.

(To be continued in Part 2 - Updated February 9, 2009)

Masaaki Iemori
Designer, BROWN BUNNY
Born in 1978.
Launched the relaxed wear brand 'BrownBunny,' centered on underwear, in the Spring/Summer 2006 season.
