Part 7: The Craft of nine SIXty Jewelry (2)
Fashion
March 12, 2015

Part 7: The Craft of nine SIXty Jewelry (2)


nineSIXty Hiroaki Kato


The 7th Installment: Inside the Jewelry Crafting of nineSIXty (Part 2)


This series reports on the jewelry crafting process at nineSIXty. Following last installment's steps, we now introduce the process of cutting and stitching leather, followed by the finishing stages of tanning.


Text by SATO Atsushi (GRINGO&Co.)photo by Kay Uzawa




Assessing the Leather's Condition is Key





Continuing from the previous installment, we are crafting the model known as the 'One Star'.

The leather is shaped into a cylinder, and the glued surface is shaved to ensure a smooth join. Next, the leather is cut into the rough shape of a ring. The cutting shape is determined based on the image in my mind. 'There's no single correct answer!' I might never find that ideal form in my lifetime. I believe jewelry has the potential for infinite forms, far beyond what I can measure.


'B・G', Reflecting on 2008 and Discussing Ambitions for 2009 (Part 1)






Next, we use an awl to mark for stitching. This is preparation for hand-sewing. If the awl marks are too deep, holes will form and weaken the leather's structure. It's important to apply pressure delicately and gently. Leather is, after all, a living material. Even with lizard skin, the characteristics and quality of the leather vary not only by part but also by individual animal. The leather's condition also changes with humidity and temperature, making it very difficult to judge the appropriate treatment on the spot.

'B・G', Reflecting on 2008 and Discussing Ambitions for 2009 (Part 1)






The stitching thread is coated with wax. This makes the thread glide smoothly during sewing, prevents it from coming undone as it's tightened by hand, and increases its strength. It's an indispensable item.

Using the waxed thread, we pass it through the marked holes in the leather and stitch it together. In nineSIXty jewelry, the thread is stitched in such a way that it secures the metal and stones inside. This method, where stitching is done from various directions after calculating the direction of force, was developed through self-study and requires meticulous attention.

'B・G', Reflecting on 2008 and Discussing Ambitions for 2009 (Part 1)



The Tool for Tanning: Custom-Made Chopsticks



'B・G', Reflecting on 2008 and Discussing Ambitions for 2009 (Part 1)



Once a section is stitched, we begin to make small cuts from the outside. Repeating this process, the final stage of stitching gradually reveals the overall shape.

But actually, the real work begins here. From revealing the line to the final finish, about four processes are necessary. First, tanning. We tan about three times, then reinforce it with another three rounds of tanning. Next, dyeing, followed by more tanning, and finally, coating. It might be surprising, but more time is spent after the stitching is complete.



'B・G', Reflecting on 2008 and Discussing Ambitions for 2009 (Part 1)



The tool for tanning is a pair of chopsticks with their ends shaved at an angle (laughs). But these chopsticks are actually a highly prized item; a friend who is a wood craftsman selected the wood and shaped them for me. The hardness and texture of the wood are completely unsuitable in commercially available ones. The tanning process, which involves applying subtle pressure, rubbing, and softening, is crucial for finishing the ring, such as softening and rounding the edges and creating smooth curves on the leather surface. It takes a considerable amount of time and care.

I myself am naturally quite a restless person, but I never tire of making jewelry. I can work through the night without feeling any hardship. The joy of constantly exploring new materials and forms, and finally bringing them to fruition, is unparalleled. The sense of accomplishment when I create a piece that fully satisfies a client's request is also exceptional. It would be wonderful to continue as an active artist throughout my life, no matter my age (laughs).



nine SIXty