Rintaro Tanaka | Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (First Half)
Fashion
March 13, 2015

Rintaro Tanaka | Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (First Half)


Series | Rintaro Tanaka


Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Part 1)


Rintaro Tanaka's vintage event "Inspiration," which began in 2010, has been a success. Its prologue, "King of Vintage," saw both Vol. 1 and Vol. 2 (Vol. 2 was titled "Queen of Vintage") receive acclaim, with Vol. 1 already sold out due to its popularity.
And this month, "King of Vintage Vol. 3" was released in Japan first. As a successor to the highly acclaimed Vol. 1, Larry McKoin makes another appearance in this Vol. 3. OPENERS spoke with Tanaka about the highlights of the book, including the reasons behind Larry's return.


Photos by Rintaro TanakaInterview by Toranosuke Takeuchi (City Lights)




rumors | To the online store

A Book Condensing the Best of Today's Hottest People


──Regarding "King of Vintage" Vol. 1 and Vol. 2 ("Queen of Vintage"), both were released just before the events. This time it's September. Can we consider this also a prologue to the event?

That's right. The third Inspiration event is scheduled for February 10th and 11th next year, at the same venue, the "Queen Mary." This release precedes that. Last time, and the time before that, we actually wanted to release them around this time, but because it overlapped with the release of "My Freedamn!," we released them at the end of the year.

──I see, so there were reasons like that. As for the selection, Larry McKoin reappears, but why him again?

This is the third time, so I did consider other people, but honestly, there aren't many at this level. Also, in a way, Larry is currently at the peak of his momentum. So, I thought it would be best to feature him as the "King" straightforwardly. I don't think anyone can stop this momentum for a while.


Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage,


Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage,




──What is the greatest appeal of his collection?

The strength of denim, the quintessential element of vintage clothing, really stands out. Among vintage items, denim is undeniably the strongest. For me, who entered this world through leather jackets and hadn't paid much attention to denim, Larry's collection, with its focus on denim, was particularly fresh and enjoyable. But what's amazing about him is that he's not just strong in denim and workwear; he's also comprehensively strong, or rather, high-end, in other genres. His collection is truly superb in both selection and quality.

──Did you consciously consider the differences from Vol. 1 during production?

Of course, all the items featured are different, but more than that, I wanted to bring out the unique charm of his collection more intensely this time. Larry is currently in a position of a "high roller" in gambling terms, with the highest stakes. I wanted to create a book that condensed the best parts of such a person who is at the height of their game.

──What specifically is the content like?

The items are mainly from around the 1910s to the early 1940s. This period is currently the hottest, and at the same time, it features items that give the impression that vintage clothing has reached its peak. These are like the final trump cards. If you go any further back, you enter the world of tailoring; it's that borderline.




Series | Rintaro Tanaka


Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Part 1)




Larry's World: Pre-1950s America


──Indeed, that's the hottest period. The world of high fashion also carries a strong impression of the early 20th century.

Exactly. When I walk around Tokyo, I feel a link between the vintage clothing scene and the street and fashion worlds. Young people are wearing the latest fashion, but the designs look like something I've seen in vintage clothes. But are young people today very interested in vintage clothing? Not really. Why is there this kind of connection, or lack thereof?

──Perhaps it's not the wearers who are conscious of it, but rather the designers and those who make clothes who are aware of the times?

I'm sure that's the case. For example, American clothing from the 1910s was created by linking European culture with new American culture. Now, it's linking again, centered in Japan, across generations and genres. I think that's a very interesting phenomenon.

──Conversely, does that mean Larry possesses many of the original sources that inspire these trends of the era?

Precisely. The interesting things from America ultimately emerged during periods of economic prosperity. The late 1910s after World War I, the late 1930s after overcoming the Great Depression, and the mid-to-late 1940s after World War II. Larry has completely mastered the items from these periods, 1910s to 1940s. That's why he's so strong. Moreover, Larry has hardly touched upon the 1950s, even for items from the same prosperous periods. During the vintage boom of the 90s, it was all about the 50s, wasn't it? But now, the 50s have become the most difficult era.

Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage,


Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage,




──With so many positive elements and no negative baggage, Larry is probably the hottest right now for that very reason.

Yes. It's strange, but vintage clothing shouldn't inherently have trends, yet we are all living within trends. Furthermore, as I mentioned earlier, it somehow crosses over with street style and high fashion. The more I think about it, the more interesting it becomes.

──By the way, why are the 1950s currently unpopular?

Present-day America, I believe, is an extension of the America that began with the 1950s. The lack of popularity for the 50s might be a reflection of a psychological reluctance to look at contemporary America.

──I see. That's an interesting perspective.

However, it's difficult for people who used to favor American casual wear to suddenly shift to European styles. So, perhaps that's why the focus is on earlier American eras. For example, Britain also has its own casual styles, and historically, there have been several movements. But whether it was punk or the mods, they were imitating America. In that sense, casual wear was born in America. The initial culture of that can be seen in the kind of vintage clothing Larry possesses.

──Even though the vintage trend is moving towards older eras, America still leads the world of casual wear. It has a certain allure, a dreamlike quality that it imparts.

Earlier I said that the 1950s were the beginning of contemporary America, but the American culture we love, including the 1950s, no longer exists in reality. That's why I feel like I'm dealing with ghosts right now (laughs).

( Continued in Part 2 )

Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage,




King of Vintage No. 3: "Heller's Cafe: Part 2"
Price | 5,250 yen
Size | H307 x W232 mm
Weight | Approx. 1 kg