Series: Tomooki Matsuda | Kazumi Uesugi on John Lobb's "By Request"
Fashion
March 6, 2015

Series: Tomooki Matsuda | Kazumi Uesugi on John Lobb's "By Request"


John Lobb: Shoes for All Terrains


Kazumi Kurigami on John Lobb's "By Request" (1)


In late February, a special feature on John Lobb aired on the BS NTV program "Brand Story." Photographer Kazumi Kurigami, a wearer of John Lobb shoes, was invited to participate. During the broadcast, he spoke passionately about the "By Request" boots he is wearing today. "John Lobb shoes are amphibious," says Kurigami, who shares his philosophy on the art of living.


Text by OPENERSPhoto by Jamandfix




A Perfect Union of Texture and Functionality, Leading to Love



Tomioki MatsudaSo, how are the boots treating you?

Kazumi KurigamiThey're very comfortable and excellent.

──Could you tell us about your first encounter with John Lobb?

KurigamiIt was nearly 30 years ago. I casually walked into Hermès in Paris, and for some reason, the shoes caught my eye. When I picked them up, the leather felt exquisite, and the soles were rubber. I thought to myself, 'These are the shoes for me, designed for someone like me whose work puts a strain on footwear.' I bought my first pair right then and there.

MatsudaHow many pairs have you owned over the years?

KurigamiI counted them recently, and I have seven. I've probably bought more than ten. I have pairs with leather soles, and I recently purchased a special model for tuxedos.

──Has the appeal of John Lobb remained unchanged?

KurigamiMy first pair in Paris felt like fate, and I've loved them ever since. John Lobb isn't just about beautiful form; it's the combination of functionality as a tool that makes them perfect for me. The exquisite harmony of texture and functionality led me to "Fall in Love." Since then, I find myself seeking out John Lobb whenever I travel.

John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 02


John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 03



MatsudaI understand you wear John Lobb even for your photo shoots?

KurigamiUnless the location conditions are particularly challenging, I wear my John Lobb shoes for shoots in the studio or around Tokyo. It's convenient because I don't need to change if I have meetings or dinner plans afterward. It might be a crude way to put it, but John Lobb shoes are stylish yet possess that "amphibious" functionality, which I appreciate.

MatsudaThe stylists who visit John Lobb often ask which models you wear. Everyone seems very interested in your style.

──You must be quite an influential figure.




John Lobb: Shoes for All Terrains


Kazumi Kurigami on John Lobb's "By Request" (2)




MatsudaWhat do shoes represent to you, Mr. Kurigami?

KurigamiFor a man, shoes are directly linked to dandyism. They say you can gauge a person's taste by looking at their footwear. Shoes are a tool that helps control one's mindset for work, leisure, and even when enjoying a drink. They are a symbol of my personal dandyism, so if my shoes are unstylish, I feel unsettled. They are incredibly important for men.

MatsudaI see. So, they are connected to one's inner spirit as well.

KurigamiA man's coolness isn't about his looks. A man with a strong sense of self is cool. In photography, the atmosphere surrounding the subject, like the air they emit—some call it an aura—is what gets captured. What is achieved, what is strived for, these spiritual aspects become part of the physical form that is photographed. Sean Penn, for example, has that kind of coolness these days.

MatsudaHe gets better with age.

John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 05


John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 06



KurigamiThe struggles they've faced emanate from them, conveying their appeal as individuals. In contrast, I wouldn't want to photograph any of the Japanese politicians who appear in the news today. They lack confidence, they try to deceive with clever words, and they speak hesitantly with carefully constructed phrases. When politicians' faces don't improve, the country deteriorates. We must consider why we elected these individuals.

MatsudaPeople who pursue their beliefs with conviction, regardless of gender, have a certain radiance.

KurigamiThe battles they fight are reflected in their faces.




John Lobb: Shoes for All Terrains


Kazumi Kurigami on John Lobb's "By Request" (3)




The "Scott" Boot: A Design No Longer in Production



──The boots you're wearing today are custom-made through "By Request," aren't they?

KurigamiCustom-made items, not just shoes, are a dream. I once went to Hermès in Paris intending to order John Lobb shoes, but I found a ready-to-wear pair that fit perfectly. Then, I learned that I could place an order at this Marunouchi store, so I made my first custom request here.

──And how do you feel about the finished product?

KurigamiWhen I was over 30, I used to have my clothes custom-made too. Then, good quality ready-to-wear items started appearing, and I gradually stopped ordering custom clothes. But custom orders are the ultimate luxury. It's wonderful when my body and mind feel perfectly aligned. I want to wear shoes that fit my feet, and they aren't something that changes drastically with trends, so I had these boots made based on John Lobb's recommendation. They aren't overly work-like, they're slim, and very comfortable. When they were finished, my first instinct was to touch them (laughs).

MatsudaThank you. I'm delighted you like them. The boots you're wearing are a design called "Scott," which is no longer part of our current collection.

KurigamiShoes, if properly cared for, don't wear out. If you replace the soles, they can last a lifetime. John Lobb shoes are beautiful as tools, and I look forward to wearing them for years, allowing them to develop a rich patina.

MatsudaShoes have the charm of aging beautifully, and the way one wears them can reveal their work ethic and personality.

KurigamiThat's absolutely true. The places I've worn them and the distances I've walked are imbued in the shoes, making them precious.

John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 09


John Lobb | Kazumi Kurigami 10




Encountering Excellence Brings Its Own Rewards



──Many people reserve John Lobb for special occasions, but it's admirable how you wear them without hesitation, calling them "amphibious" shoes.

MatsudaTo be honest, I also own several pairs of John Lobb, but I've only worn two pairs enough for them to feel like a second skin, perfectly molded to my feet. While I'm happy that our customers cherish their John Lobb shoes, most don't reach that level of intimacy with them.

──It's said that John Lobb's Goodyear welting allows the insole to conform to the wearer's foot over time, providing a personalized fit. It seems it takes a significant amount of time.

MatsudaI experienced this myself. One day, it just clicks – you suddenly understand, 'This is what John Lobb shoes are all about!'

──It sounds much like a human relationship (laughs).

KurigamiI fell in love with John Lobb from our first encounter and haven't been able to part with them since. Encasing my feet is akin to embracing my body and spirit. Encountering something truly good brings its own rewards. Please continue to craft such wonderful shoes.

MatsudaThank you. Do you have any upcoming exhibitions or events?

KurigamiI have a photography exhibition scheduled at the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Ebisu, starting next September.

MatsudaI'm looking forward to it. Thank you for your time today.

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/