Guest: Osamu Shigematsu_1
An Interview with Osamu Shigematsu_1
For our inaugural installment, we welcome Osamu Shigematsu, Chairman of United Arrows, who also introduces various shoes in his OPENERS series, "Osamu Shigematsu's Footprints." Over three parts, we will delve into conversations about shoes, fashion, and the future vision of the brand. We hope you enjoy it.
photo by Yuichi Sugita(BIGHE)edit by Daisuke Hata(City Writes)
At John Lobb Marunouchi
Long Toes Are My Current Vibe
Tomoki MatsudaI've been following your series with great interest each month, and you truly own a remarkable number of shoes.
Osamu ShigematsuThat's true, but rather than owning them, I just haven't thrown them away. Still, I discarded about 100 pairs last year.
MatsudaA hundred pairs!? That's quite decisive. In your third installment for this series, you introduced a pair of John Lobb side-lace shoes; have you been wearing those recently?
ShigematsuTo be honest, I haven't worn them much lately...
MatsudaHaha (laughs).
ShigematsuThat's because I change my style with the times. And accordingly, I change the shoes I wear, which is why I have so many (laughs). For me, extremely long-toed shoes are the current trend.
MatsudaI see. While perhaps not as extreme as you prefer, our recent collections have featured many models with longer toes.
ShigematsuYes, they've become considerably longer.
MatsudaThe 8000 last, an evolution of the 7000 last, is also relatively long. Recently, our 'Comfort Last,' which swings inward, has also been well-received. While not exclusive to Japan, we've been told by our headquarters that it's a last designed to suit Japanese feet.
ShigematsuIt does swing inward quite a bit. That's a beautiful last.
MatsudaThank you. I believe it's a bold change for John Lobb. When I first took over as head of John Lobb Japan and spoke with you and Mr. Tetsuya Iwaki (President of United Arrows), I asked for your thoughts on 'the direction John Lobb should take.' Mr. Iwaki's comment, 'John Lobb shoes are certainly wonderful, but it feels like one collects them like stamps, buying this and that, owning them all,' left a strong impression on me. Even for a brand that values history and tradition, I strongly felt that evolution is essential.
ShigematsuIndeed. But it's true that we are evolving little by little, and I believe our customers are keeping pace with us. It's wonderful to be supported by customers who appreciate classic shoes.
Left: Mr. Shigematsu's feet, Right: Matsuda's feet
MatsudaBy the way, where is the suit you are wearing today from?
ShigematsuThis is a bespoke piece from Sovereign House.
MatsudaDid you have a particular style in mind when you had it made?
ShigematsuThe clothing at UA's Tatsuya line is fundamentally based on French style from the late '60s to early '70s. My most admired designer is Yves Saint Laurent. Given my generation, it was the ultimate aspiration when American style transitioned to European. This suit, with its two-button closure and narrow shoulders, is also based on the French style of that era. Back then, it was common to pair shoes with short vamps to make the feet appear smaller, but doing that now feels somehow off. Long-toed shoes are essential for the right look.
MatsudaStyles that were once popular don't simply return unchanged, do they?
OAKHAM, based on the highly inward-swinging last '1306'
ShigematsuThey don't. However, when I looked back at '70s fashion around the '80s, I thought, 'Why did I dress like that? How embarrassing.' But strangely, after about 30 years, fashion trends complete a cycle and return. Of course, I can't wear the exact same clothes I wore at 25 when I'm 55 (laughs).
An Interview with Osamu Shigematsu_2To be continued