Yuta Matsuoka, the designer behind the fashion brand "YUTA MATSUOKA," which handles everything from design and pattern making to sample sewing in-house at its atelier in Gifu. Many will recall his collaboration model with Anne Valerie Dupond released at Medicom Toy's pop-up event "AKASHIC RECORDS" last year. He has now created three one-off models for "MEDICOM TOY at RESTIR." We spoke with him about his past and future.

The term "artisan"—French for craftsman—seems tailor-made for this individual. Yuta Matsuoka, designer of the fashion brand bearing his name, was born in Gifu Prefecture in 1990. After graduating from Nagoya University of Arts, he launched his brand and began exhibiting in Tokyo from the Spring/Summer 2015 season, continuing to present his collections through exhibitions each season. He meticulously handles almost all aspects, including design, pattern making, and sample sewing, in his own atelier, and insists on weaving original fabrics each season in Bishu, his local region. Each piece is crafted to be a work of art that is truly integrated into daily life.

Following the announcement of 12 custom apparel pieces in collaboration with French textile sculptor Anne Valerie Dupond at Medicom Toy's "AKASHIC RECORDS" pop-up event last October, three one-off models by "YUTA MATSUOKA" will be released exclusively for "MEDICOM TOY at RESTIR" on the e-commerce platform of luxury select shop "RESTIR" starting January 23rd (Saturday). To commemorate this, we interviewed Mr. Matsuoka about his brand's journey and the inspiration behind his new creations for "MEDICOM TOY at RESTIR."

—First, could you tell us what inspired you to become a fashion designer?

MatsoukaMy parents loved clothes, and I became fond of them from a young age. I think by the time I entered high school, I vaguely wanted to work in clothing creation.
After graduating from university with a degree in fashion (Nagoya University of Arts), I started my brand right away. I considered gaining experience at another brand first, but I decided to give my all on my own, and I've continued to present my collections through exhibitions, leading to where I am today.

—What kind of influences, such as fashion, film, or music, have shaped you?

MatsoukaMany, but in fashion, I like Comme des Garçons and Christopher Nemeth. That hasn't changed. I watch various films, but I particularly like those by Gaspar Noé, Guillermo del Toro, and Kim Ki-duk.

I listen to music across genres, both old and new. Recently, I've been listening to Inga Copeland (Lolina) a lot. When it comes to songs with vocals, I find myself often drawn to female vocalists.
Also, I'm not an expert, but I appreciate antique and old things. My atelier also has a shop, so I collect and display furniture, specimens, and objets d'art.

—Since launching "YUTA MATSUOKA" to the present, you've been based in Gifu. What are your thoughts behind that decision?

MatsoukaGifu still has many sewing factories and weaving mills. While we outsource mass production to factories, I want to produce as much as possible within my sight. Therefore, I work with skilled factories that are within easy reach.
Additionally, the Shinkansen and expressways are nearby, making it easy to access both the Kanto and Kansai regions, which is convenient for my current production style.
My mother's family lives in Tokyo, and I used to visit often as a child. So, I don't feel a distance from Tokyo, neither sensually nor physically. Of course, since I'm not always in Tokyo, I sometimes find it difficult to get information quickly or build connections, but I never felt the need to actively pursue activities in Tokyo.

—Please tell us about your commitment to producing original fabrics in Bishu and handling almost all production processes in your own atelier.

MatsoukaThe reason I produce fabrics in Bishu is because there are reliable weaving mills nearby. They supported me from when I knew nothing about fabric, and even now, they help me develop new fabrics while I continue to learn.
Having started the brand immediately after graduation, I had no choice but to bring my ideas to life based on what I learned in university. That's why my current style, where I handle most of the processes in my own atelier, began. However, I want to take responsibility for the clothes I create, and I believe this approach is more convincing and better suited for building my own worldview, so I intend to continue it. The reason I named the brand after myself is also related to this.

Handling sample sewing allows me to easily find the desired expression by increasing or changing stitches and adjusting the overall balance during the creation process.

—Has anything changed for you since the COVID-19 pandemic began last year?

MatsoukaFundamentally, nothing has changed. I consider how to present fashion in the context of COVID-19, but I believe fashion is essential for offering hope.

—Last year, your collaboration with Anne Valerie Dupond at the Medicom Toy event garnered attention. Could you tell us about how you first connected with Medicom Toy?

MatsoukaI believe it was when President Akashi stopped by our booth at a group exhibition (for the 2019 A/W season). Until then, I had only presented collections at solo exhibitions, and it was my first group exhibition. I remember being surprised when he exchanged business cards with me after carefully looking at each piece among the many brands. Later, when I invited him to my solo exhibition for the 2020 S/S season, the topic of Anne Valerie Dupond came up, and I received the offer for "AKASHIC RECORDS."

Regarding their products, I truly believe BE@RBRICK is a brilliant invention. Even people who don't know the name have likely seen it. I have a strong impression that they are constantly challenging new and interesting projects that capture attention.

—What were your thoughts and feelings about collaborating with Anne Valerie Dupond?

MatsoukaI knew about the BE@RBRICK × Anne Valerie Dupond collaboration that was available at 2G, and I mentioned that I was also a fan of Anne's work. I remember being very surprised and delighted when they contacted me later.

I had never done a collaboration before, so I feel incredibly fortunate that my first experience was with Anne and Medicom Toy. It truly made me realize the wonderful opportunities that can arise from continuing my brand.

When I saw the photos of the finished pieces, they far exceeded my imagination and were truly magnificent. I also attended the event and saw them in person; they had a powerful presence, were exquisitely detailed, and became truly remarkable one-of-a-kind items. I had a personal attachment to each of the garments, so honestly, I wanted one for myself. The event itself was overwhelming with incredible works, and I was deeply honored to participate.

—Could you describe the process from conception to completion for the exclusive one-off models (black jacket, white jacket, ecru coat) being released at MEDICOM TOY at RESTIR?

MatsoukaWhen I received the offer, my first thought was to approach it differently and dedicate ample time to crafting each piece. I'm not particularly adept at working with specific themes or concepts, so I approached each garment intuitively based on a general image.

I started with the black jacket, which was inspired by images of plant vines and barbed wire. I twisted two waxed cords together, created irregular knots, and secured them with stitching. Twisting the cords and tying the knots were all done by hand, making it the most time-consuming of the three pieces. The fabric is a jacquard I first created in Bishu several years ago.

black jacket
Price | ¥180,000 (excluding tax)

For the white jacket, I was inspired by a film I had recently watched (Suspiria). The fabric is a cut jacquard, also produced in Bishu for the 17 S/S season, which I washed to create a three-dimensional texture. I then modified the weft yarns on the surface and used hand-stitching to express a sense of toxicity and strength.

white jacket
Price | ¥240,000 (excluding tax)

For the ecru coat, I was inspired by Anne Valerie Dupond's work. Before starting, I set some rules: no hand-stitching and no white fabric. This was to ensure my own style would come through. The components include antique lace, which I enjoy collecting, linen cord, and braid. To achieve a worn-in look and incorporate artistic elements, I distressed the fabric and applied paint. I created立体 pockets, drawing inspiration from how Anne's work transforms fabric into three-dimensional forms.
The challenging part was determining when to stop, as I didn't have a clear final vision. Because I invest so much time, I can only create a few pieces, but the process of focusing on each garment was fresh and enjoyable.

ecru coat
Price | ¥220,000 (excluding tax)

RESTIR has an image of luxury and exclusivity, so by meticulously crafting each piece, I aimed to convey a sense of luxury and specialness.

—What would you like to do with Medicom Toy in the future, Mr. Matsuoka?

MatsoukaI would like to try creating one-off models like these again, spending a lot of time on each piece. It's demanding, but I enjoyed the process. I'd love to collaborate on something similar with artists I admire, like Anne.

—Finally, could you tell us what you focus on and keep in mind when creating clothes?

MatsoukaWe present our collections without a seasonal theme, but in recent years, I've particularly focused on "allure." Not in a superficial way, but rather a playful charm, an elegance that's somehow understated, an inner depth. To achieve this, the clothing needs to be approachable and blend well with the wearer, so it must be easy to care for yet stylish. I aim to create pieces that are not overly ornate but possess a subtle, intriguing quality.

RESTIR
Address | 9-6-17 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours | 11:00 - 20:00
Regular Holidays | Irregular
TEL | 03-5413-3708
https://www.restir.com/