An Everyday French Landscape

For our first trip abroad together, my wife and I chose France as our destination. The reason was simple: I wanted her, who had never visited France before, to enjoy the casual charm of Parisian streets, delicious food and wine—even if not high-end—and its rich artistic heritage. But separately from that, there was something I had always wanted to do if I were to travel in France.

To drive out into the countryside and gaze dreamily at the French rural scenery together. I had visited the gently rolling hills of central France several times for work, and its beauty had always captivated me. There are no dramatic mountain passes, nor is there a striking contrast of a deep blue sea and white beaches. It’s simply a landscape of endless green expanses, with gentle undulations stretching out to the distant horizon.

Some areas are pastures where cattle and sheep graze, while others are fields of grain and vegetables. Though their purposes vary, they all convey a powerful sense of life. In such places, time seems to flow at a more leisurely pace.



The human activities repeated over generations, perhaps for centuries. How many sunrises and sunsets, how many springs, summers, autumns, and winters has this land witnessed? Thinking about it made me feel suddenly small, freeing me from the trivialities and worries of daily life.

I wanted my wife to experience the same. With that in mind, I planned our four days in France: two for sightseeing in Paris, and the remaining two for a drive into the French countryside.

To Mont Saint-Michel with the Koleos

I could have simply driven aimlessly, but I chose Mont Saint-Michel, an island commune in southern Normandy floating in the Atlantic, as our general destination. I had never visited Mont Saint-Michel myself, and my wife was captivated by its beautiful scenery on television, so the decision was made instantly. However, when I asked friends who had actually been, the reviews were surprisingly lukewarm.

Upon closer questioning, they explained that while the scenery of Mont Saint-Michel itself is magnificent, the small island becomes overcrowded with Japanese tourists during the day, making it difficult to experience the authentic French atmosphere. I could understand that. It was then that an acquaintance, who had lived in France for over 20 years, appeared with a Michelin Guide and offered this advice:

“There’s a small port town called Dinard about 50km from Mont Saint-Michel. It’s quiet and truly beautiful. Moreover, according to this guidebook, there seems to be a small auberge along the coast. So, why not stay in Dinard and just visit Mont Saint-Michel as a stopover?”

After much deliberation, my wife and I decided to accept this suggestion.

Leaving Paris, Heading West

On the third day of our stay in France, my wife and I visited a Renault Square in the suburbs of Paris to pick up our press car, the Koleos. The Renault Koleos is one of my favorite cars. About six months prior, I had been deeply impressed by its smooth ride after test-driving the minor-changed Koleos. For an SUV-like crossover model, its quietness is remarkable. The high roofline would make long drives more comfortable and would be convenient for carrying plenty of luggage. Best of all, the excellent visibility afforded by the high hip point makes it an ideal companion for this trip.

We had visited the Opera Garnier the previous day, which we hadn't had time to see, so we arrived at Renault Square around 3 PM. We set Mont Saint-Michel as our destination on the easy-to-use built-in navigation system, which isn't available in Japan. The distance was displayed as 350km, an approximately 4-hour journey. The thought of seeing Mont Saint-Michel by the time the late French dusk settled in naturally made my heart race.

We headed northwest on the A13 autoroute, then switched to the A84 near Caen, heading slightly south along the Normandy coast towards Mont Saint-Michel. The Koleos we rented was the "BOSE Edition dCi150 4×4" equipped with a BOSE audio system. It features a 2.0-liter four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine, producing 150ps but with a robust 320Nm of torque, typical of a diesel. The automatic transmission promised a relaxed driving experience.

An Exquisite Sandwich

It seemed to be before the evening rush hour, as we successfully escaped Paris without getting caught in traffic. A little past 4 PM, we stopped at a nearby service area to grab the lunch we had missed, and bought sandwiches. Unlike the sliced bread common in Japan, these were made with baguettes. The bread itself was exceptionally delicious, and the vegetables, ham, and other fillings were so exquisite that I never tired of eating them.

The shop we used that day was a nondescript establishment, typical of service areas. Yet, with such simple food, the power of the local ingredients clearly shone through. Savouring this incredibly convenient feast, we continued our drive west in the Koleos.

The Diesel Koleos, Unavailable in Japan

The trip meter, reset at departure, had already passed 200km, but the lack of desire to stop was likely due to the Koleos' comfortable ride. Compared to the Japanese specifications, perhaps due to the firmer tread of the tires, it felt slightly rough, but the ample suspension travel characteristic of Renault remained, effortlessly smoothing out road undulations. The flatness was also commendable. Combined with the well-cushioned seats, the fact that fatigue didn't concentrate in any one part of the body was truly appreciated.

The 2.0-liter turbo-diesel's combustion noise was slightly more noticeable than in the gasoline model, but not to an extent that it was bothersome. On the other hand, its low-end torque was far superior to the gasoline model's. From below 2,000 rpm, it accelerated nimbly with just a light press of the throttle pedal. And, of course, setting the speed limit of 130 km/h on cruise control allowed it to maintain that speed steadily.



We exited the A84 near Avranches, took the N176 to the N175, and then turned onto a local road. It was a true country road, single-lane in each direction, with guardrails appearing only occasionally. Eventually, the sea began to appear in the distance. According to the map, the distance to Mont Saint-Michel from here was only about 10km.

The parking lot, which seemed to have been recently completed, was as far as regular customers could drive. Without a detailed map, it was hard to tell, but it looked like at least an hour's walk to the island. Reluctantly, we decided to view the island from afar and retreated for the day. We headed to the auberge in Dinard we had booked, a little after 7 PM.

Undeniably Europe

Dinard, reached after about an hour's drive from Mont Saint-Michel, offered a landscape that, in terms of steep cliffs close to the coast, felt somewhat Japanese. However, the richness of the greenery and the design of the buildings scattered here and there were unmistakably European. The auberge we were heading to was adjacent to a small drugstore, and without the Koleos' navigation, we would never have noticed it even if we had driven past the street.

However, the cuisine served here was truly exquisite. French cuisine often conjures images of overly creamy sauces, but the dishes at this restaurant were entirely different. They were seasoned relatively lightly, bringing out the quality of the ingredients. Furthermore, hot dishes were served piping hot, and cold dishes were refreshingly chilled.



I ordered raw oysters as an appetizer and a trio of fish dishes for the main course. My wife had steamed shellfish with wine as an appetizer, and for her main, she chose the recommended fish dish of the day. The course, including dessert, was a mere 45 euros per person, and a bottle of wine was 30 euros. It was so delicious that I felt I had never tasted better French cuisine.

Moreover, despite being a prix fixe menu, the service was excellent, with the staff smilingly accommodating our rather specific requests. Of course, my own culinary experience is not extensive, so there might be many similar establishments in France. Nevertheless, I was deeply grateful to our acquaintance who introduced us and to the Michelin Guide that served as his reference, for the good fortune of spending a precious evening there with my wife.

Restaurant - Hôtel Didier Méril

1, Place du Général de Gaulle Dinard 35800 France
Tel. 02 99 46 95 74
Fax. 02 99 16 07 75

Mont Saint-Michel at Sunrise

At 5 AM the next morning, rubbing the sleep from my eyes, I drove the Koleos along the still dark roads. The plan was to visit Mont Saint-Michel before the tourists stirred, before sunrise. Parking the Koleos in the lot I had scouted the previous day, I walked towards Mont Saint-Michel. As I walked the roughly hour-long path, the sun gradually rose, and the morning light began to illuminate the stone structures, which had taken on their current form in the 13th century.

The island, standing alone in the sea, was bathed in light ranging from crimson to indigo, its appearance changing moment by moment. Apart from the occasional fellow tourist walking towards the island, the surroundings were enveloped in complete silence. Amidst this, the magnificent scenery alone transformed its colors, unseen by most.



I wandered through the deserted island of Mont Saint-Michel. It felt like being inside a Studio Ghibli film, but of course, this was the original. The profound emotion I felt during the approximately 30 minutes spent there is, unfortunately, beyond the power of words to express. All I can say to the readers is, "If you have the chance, please visit Mont Saint-Michel in the early morning."

After another hour's walk back to the parking lot, and then an hour's drive back to the hotel in the Koleos, my wife and I satisfied our hunger with a simple continental breakfast (though the butter, again, was superb). We then indulged in sleep until just before checkout time before leaving the hotel.

The Real France, Beyond the Guidebooks

On our way back to Paris, we chose a southern route that passed near Le Mans. This was because I knew that the vast landscapes I wanted my wife to see were spread out around the A11 autoroute, which connects Le Mans and Chartres.

The sky that day was what you'd call a brilliant blue. Even so, the sky in France, at a latitude comparable to Hokkaido, has a truly deep blue. As if reflecting it, the green of the pastures shone. Occasionally, we saw a few cows grazing alone here and there. Seeing this scenery, I thought it was, naturally, idyllic. My wife, seeing the cows, envied them, saying they looked "happy."

There were still places in Paris we wanted to visit. We hadn't even climbed Montmartre hill, and we had only seen the exterior of the Louvre. Trying to see all of Paris in just two days was, fundamentally, an impossible task.


However, dedicating two of our four days in France to long-distance driving was the right decision. In fact, during this trip, we had various interactions with local people, which were invaluable experiences we could never have gained by just visiting the capital. "I feel like I got to know the real France, the one not written in guidebooks," my wife said on the plane home.

Driving abroad carries inherent risks. Therefore, I cannot casually recommend it to everyone, but if you make thorough preparations, I urge you to try it if you get the chance.

Finally, I would like to conclude this piece by expressing my renewed gratitude to the great pioneers who created the nation of France, and to the Renault automobile manufacturer, born from this very country.

Renault Koleos BOSE Edition dCi150 4x4｜ルノー コレオス ボーズ エディション dCi150 4x4
Body | Length 4,520 × Width 1,855 × Height 1,695mm
Wheelbase | 2,690mm
Ground Clearance | 188mm
Engine | Common rail, water-cooled, inline 4-cylinder, 16-valve, turbocharged diesel
Displacement | 1,995cc
Transmission | 6-speed automatic
Max. Output | 110kW (150ps) / 4000rpm
Max. Torque | 320Nm / 2000rpm
Drive System | Four-wheel drive
Vehicle Weight | 1,730kg
CO2 Emissions | 166g/km
Fuel Consumption | 6.4L/100km (EU combined, approx. 15.6 km/L)
Max. Speed | 177km/h
0-100km/h Acceleration | 12.3 seconds
Min. Turning Radius | 5.8m
Tires | 225/60 R17
Cargo Capacity | 450L (1,380L max.)
(All European specifications)