What are Glycans, the "Third Code of Life"?

On a clear day last December, our press group boarded a car in Omotesando. We had imagined the research institute to be far away, but we arrived in just over 20 minutes. The fact that it was "close" to the city center made it feel surprisingly familiar. Soon after being shown into an office meeting room, we were greeted by Kazuko Jinbo, Director of the Skincare Development Division at the R&I Center, who immediately began discussing "Forever's" core concept: glycobiology.

Glycobiology is currently one of the hottest fields of science, focusing on the study of the structure of glycoproteins and glycans. The deciphering of DNA, which began in 1953, is called the "First Code of Life," and protein analysis, starting in 1963, is the "Second." Glycobiology, through the analysis of glycans, is now referred to as the "Third Code of Life." Its significance is evident from the fact that in the roughly 100 years since research began, it has produced seven Nobel laureates, and was selected as one of the "10 Scientific Breakthroughs That Will Change the Future of Medicine" by MIT's Technology Review magazine.

The Action of the New Ingredient "Glycan Active"

It is Yves Saint Laurent's new "Forever" line that has, for the first time in the cosmetics field, incorporated this advanced science of glycobiology. For "Forever," YSL established "YSL.SKINSCIENCE," a specialized team focused on glycobiology applied to the skin. Glycans present in the skin and receptors bind like a key (glycan) and lock (receptor) to exchange vital information for skin function. However, both receptors and glycans decrease with age. As a result, essential information is no longer exchanged, leading to wrinkles, loss of firmness, and dullness. They discovered that glycans act as important "antennas" on the cell surface and succeeded in identifying glycan receptors that do not decrease.





This led to the development of the new ingredient, "Glycan Active." Composed of three types of glycans, "Glycan Active" acts as the "key," mimicking the function of glycans within the skin. This allows it to bind with the non-decreasing glycan receptors, acting as the "lock," ensuring a continuous and smooth transmission of information within the skin. This makes it possible to maintain the skin's youthfulness, including its firmness and radiance.

Pursuing Textures and Scents Preferred by Japanese People

After this lecture, with our minds filled with "Glycobiology" and "Glycan Active," it was finally time to enter the lab. We were the first external staff to be allowed inside the lab, and we entered with a slight sense of nervousness, donning disposable lab coats and goggles. Inside the research facility, we observed the creation of the serum with Japanese formulation.

First, we confirmed the three types of glycans with our own eyes. The serum, "Forever Liberator Serum," which contains the highest concentration of "Glycan Active," required a Japanese formulation due to a commitment to texture. "Glycan Active" itself has a slippery texture, and high concentrations increase a feeling of stickiness, which was a challenge. They repeated about 80 trials before achieving the final product.





The result was a texture that glides on smoothly and leaves the skin feeling soft and supple after application. In the lab, a researcher demonstrated the process, rapidly agitating the ingredients to achieve a finish identical to the final product. We were then honored to try the freshly made serum on the back of our hands, and everyone present exclaimed with admiration, "It absorbs easily," "It feels so smooth," and "The scent is lovely."

Furthermore, we tried the European-formulated serum on the back of our hands and were astonished by the difference in texture. It was like a completely different product, despite sharing the same name. The European formulation felt less easily absorbed and left a lingering slipperiness, highlighting the clear differences in preferences due to lifestyle and environment, and making us understand all the more how crucial the Japanese formulation is.

Additionally, the scent was also specially formulated to cater to the preferences of Japanese women. The delicate floral notes with a hint of woody undertones were enchanting. It makes skincare a delightful ritual, morning and night.

Understanding the Significance of Using the Line

It is also noteworthy that this research facility can conduct trials using 50kg vats, simulating actual factory production. Even if experiments in beakers are successful, the conditions differ when scaling up to large vats, so checks are performed from all angles within the laboratory. It is deeply moving to think that the Japanese formulation was born in this very lab, with such considerations in mind. The researchers involved seemed to wear a subtle sense of pride!

Yves Saint Laurent's "Forever" line (lotion, cream, serum, eye cream, emulsion), developed with their full commitment, is a trustworthy series for us Japanese women. While we often chase after star products individually, I find myself experiencing the pure joy of skincare by using the "Forever" line. I believe this is entirely thanks to its Japanese development. This day brought me closer to understanding the appeal of "Forever," which addresses hydration, skin firmness and elasticity, and concerns about fine lines.







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