A Special Conversation: Chiharu Nagatomi x Dr. Brian Keller | b.glen
BEAUTY / FEATURES
September 17, 2015

A Special Conversation: Chiharu Nagatomi x Dr. Brian Keller | b.glen


b.glen


Chiharu Nagatomi x Dr. Brian Keller: A Special Conversation


The Making of Innovative Science Cosmetics (1)


b.glen has now officially launched in Japan. Dr. Brian Keller, the American scientist behind its development, offers a precise approach to addressing various skin concerns through his unique penetration technology. Beauty journalist Chiharu Nagatomi spoke with him about the story behind its creation and the meticulous details of the products.

Text by Reona OtsuPhotographed by Takashi Kobayashi (ITARU Studio)Hair & Makeup by Chiaki Niimi




The Creator of b.glen: A Pioneer in DDS


Chiharu Nagatomi (hereinafter, Nagatomi)First, could you tell us about Dr. Keller's area of expertise?

Dr. Brian Keller (hereinafter, Keller)My specialty is research into drug delivery systems (DDS) in the medical field. DDS is a medical technology that effectively delivers a drug to a target site in a concentrated manner. This technology makes it possible to deliver the required amount of active ingredients to the necessary area, significantly enhancing the therapeutic effects of medications. I was the first to apply this DDS to topical anesthesia. Originally, it was difficult for anesthetic drugs to penetrate the skin, but this improved their absorption, leading to faster, longer-lasting, and more potent anesthetic effects.

NagatomiThat's remarkable. Topical anesthetics have evolved considerably in recent years, becoming less uncomfortable and numbing faster, which is greatly appreciated. By the way, why did you decide to apply DDS to skincare?

KellerIt was purely by chance that I, whose research was not originally in cosmetics, came to apply my proprietary penetration technology, "QuSome®," to cosmetics. One day, I noticed my wife spending a long time in front of the mirror every morning and evening, concerned about her wrinkles. I decided to examine the ingredients of the cosmetics she was using. While they contained many ingredients claimed to be effective for the skin, it was easy to predict that these beneficial ingredients were not reaching their intended targets. This is because the skin, covered in sebum, has a barrier function that prevents easy penetration of any ingredient. So, I created a serum using the penetration technology I had developed for medical purposes, incorporating Vitamin C. As a result, her skin showed improvement in less than two days. That serum was the prototype for b.glen's "C Serum."

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NagatomiSo, b.glen originated from a prototype you personally created for your wife?

KellerThat's correct. The formulation of "C Serum" has remained largely unchanged to this day. Since then, I have created a succession of lotions and creams using the "QuSome®" penetration technology. This led to the birth of b.glen, a high-performance science cosmetic brand that offers solutions tailored to individual skin concerns.

"QuSome®": Smart Skincare That Targets Precisely


NagatomiCould you tell us more about the "QuSome®" penetration technology used in b.glen products?

Keller"QuSome®" is a technology that stabilizes skincare active ingredients by encapsulating them in ultra-fine microcapsules, based on years of medical research, allowing them to penetrate deep into the stratum corneum. There are three main benefits to using "QuSome®" in our products: first, enhanced penetration of ingredients; second, the manifestation of diverse skin-beautifying effects; and third, reduced burden on the skin. Unlike traditional skincare, more is not always better. It is our unique penetration technology, based on the "Less is More" philosophy of delivering a small amount of what is needed effectively and without waste, that is "QuSome®."



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NagatomiEven ingredients beneficial for the skin can pose a risk of burden if used excessively and indiscriminately. The logic of delivering what's needed precisely to specific areas, rather than everywhere, is easy to understand. The idea of "less is more effective" feels modern and smart.

KellerThank you. It's about precisely targeting skin troubles and their root causes, without negatively affecting other areas. That is the greatest feature and differentiating point of "QuSome®." "QuSome®" smoothly enters and remains in the necessary parts of the skin, acting like an "anchor."

NagatomiWhat kind of skin does b.glen aim to achieve?

KellerAt b.glen, we offer skincare programs focused on specific skin concerns such as dark spots and dullness, acne, wrinkles and aging, pores, and eye area concerns, to guide users towards the ideal of healthy, trouble-free skin. By effectively delivering the right amount of beneficial ingredients, we aim to resolve individual skin issues and achieve radiant, healthy skin from within.

Page.02 Renewed Focus on Vitamin C




b.glen


Chiharu Nagatomi x Dr. Brian Keller: A Special Conversation


The Making of Innovative Science Cosmetics (2)



Renewed Focus on Vitamin C


NagatomiIn Japan, Vitamin C is currently regaining attention as a beauty ingredient. However, I hear that Vitamin C is inherently unstable and fragile, making it difficult to incorporate into cosmetics.

KellerAt b.glen, we stabilize Vitamin C by encapsulating it within ultra-fine microcapsules using "QuSome®." Thanks to this technology, even fragile Vitamin C can now exert its full effects within the skin.

NagatomiWhy do you think Vitamin C continues to reign as such a beloved ingredient?

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KellerI believe it's because it can perform multiple actions, such as powerful antioxidant effects, brightening, and melanin reduction. In the US too, the popularity of Vitamin C has been reignited in recent years. b.glen's hero product, "C Serum," contains pure Vitamin C. Because the "QuSome®" capsule itself has an affinity for sebum, it glides smoothly between skin cells from the moment of application, penetrating deep into the stratum corneum.



NagatomiI see. A simple question, but since Vitamin C is a potent ingredient, I imagine some people's skin may not tolerate it well. Is "C Serum" not too harsh on the skin?

KellerIn "C Serum," we've formulated it to reduce skin irritation not only by controlling the concentration of Vitamin C but also by carefully managing the pH balance. Generally, it can be used on the entire face.




NagatomiThat's reassuring. Speaking of which, by employing "QuSome®," does the Vitamin C in "C Serum" maintain its effects in the skin for a long time?

Keller"QuSome®" capsules have a layered, onion-like structure consisting of 10 to 12 layers. They release and penetrate gradually over time in a time-release manner, so the effects last for a long time.


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NagatomiI see. It's a very systematic and well-thought-out serum. I've heard that new products and programs are being prepared to address various skin concerns with pinpoint accuracy, including the anti-aging measures that are currently gaining so much attention. I'm truly looking forward to seeing what new proposals b.glen will offer. Thank you for your time today.

KellerThank you as well. We will continue to propose effective products and programs using advanced technology that only b.glen can offer, so please look forward to them!

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NAGATOMI Chiharu
Beauty journalist. Founder of the membership-based beauty community "club.C." Active in various fields, including writing serialized articles for magazines, planning and editing for advertising media, and advisory roles, as well as participating in talk shows.




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Dr. Brian Keller
CSO (Chief Scientific Officer) of Vivarich Laboratories. Former Professor at the University of California, San Francisco (UCSF). Engaged in clinical practice and research at UCSF, where he also taught for many years as a professor. Currently, while conducting research and development at Vivarich, he continues his research activities worldwide as a leading figure in drug delivery systems.




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