The Key is Eyeshadow Texture

NagatomiI've brought some of the image looks and new colors for fall and winter.

FujiwaraLooking at these, I feel like there's a strong image of a "smoky, nuanced woman." Rather than sharp colors, it's sophisticated intermediate tones that blend naturally into the skin with a soft finish. This reflects the current era's emphasis on nuance and the evolving image of women, leading to lighter tones rather than vivid colors overall.

NagatomiFor example, if one wants to incorporate the nuances of fall and winter, what should be the first point of focus?

FujiwaraThe texture of eyeshadow. Rather than the color itself, I think choosing something new in terms of "texture"—like fine particles that apply smoothly, or a sophisticated pearl finish—would be good. Just doing that will create a contemporary autumn look. For instance, Clé de Peau Beauté's eyeshadows have a wonderful transparency and finely milled particles that apply so smoothly. They feel less powdery and blend seamlessly. Shiseido's Maquillage cream shadow duo is also excellent; a light sweep of your finger back and forth creates a delicate, lustrous finish.

NagatomiShiseido is really good at capturing those subtle, forward-thinking evolutions, isn't it?

FujiwaraExactly. I feel like many brands this year are releasing products with soft, smooth particles. The gray tones in Givenchy's four-color shadow are also nice for their transparency.

2010 Autumn/Winter Clé de Peau Beauté Makeup Visual

New eyeshadows: Clé de Peau Beauté (left) and Givenchy (right).

NagatomiI personally love them. The intermediate colors are so beautiful... In the past, eye makeup often had a very strong image, like 80% eyes, 20% lips.

FujiwaraThat's why using these creates such transparency and a sense of lightness. It really matches the current trend towards lightness.

NagatomiCreating lightness in winter feels very fresh.

FujiwaraYes, and with skin makeup too, the focus is shifting from a perfectly sculpted, flawless finish to "transparency" and "lightness." I think the eyeshadows are designed to complement that kind of skin.

NagatomiThat's a major trend. Regarding the eyes, what about lashes and eyebrows? Eyebrows have become quite thin recently, haven't they?

FujiwaraI think the trend towards thin eyebrows is to emphasize the eyes, but currently, it feels like it's gone too far and lacks sophistication. Eyelash extensions are commonplace now, but sometimes I see people who look quite startling. I believe there's an ideal thickness and density for lashes and brows that suits an individual's mindset and personality. Eyebrows, in particular, can create a fashionable look and also contribute to a sense of cleanliness, making them a crucial point. I hope people will soon realize what kind of eyebrows suit them best.

NagatomiOuch, that hits home! (Tears) But you really have to try things on to know what suits you, right?

FujiwaraYes, you do. About 20 years ago, during the first thin eyebrow trend, I tried thinning my own brows. I thought they looked good, but when I saw a photograph of myself, I looked incredibly old! Since then, I've realized thin brows don't suit me or feel authentic, so I've kept them thicker.

NagatomiEven you, Fujiwara-san, have had that experience! That's a relief (laughs). So, what about the lips?

FujiwaraGloss was the mainstream not too long ago, but I feel like gloss is becoming more like lipstick, and lipstick is becoming more like gloss. In other words, glosses are now coming out with more color. There was a time when many glosses looked very red but had almost no color payoff, right? But I feel like color is making a comeback.

New shades of Dior's Serum de Rouge

With Makeup Artist Michiko Fujiwara
Michiko Fujiwara × Chiharu Nagatomi: A Conversation (Part 2)

Michiko Fujiwara's Autumn Trend Makeup (2)

Creating Bone Structure Through Texture by Dividing Features

NagatomiI see. And there are so many products lately that seem to be between face color and blush, right? Like, is it blush or face color?

FujiwaraFor example, there used to be contouring, right? But now, face colors aren't just for that purpose. They create natural contours based on nuance. For instance, applying a highlighter to the high points makes them pop forward. Then, applying a darker blush along the outer edges of the face creates definition. Furthermore, applying a pearlescent highlighter just outside the blush line can further define the bone structure. This way, you create natural bone structure. Yes, you can create bone structure through texture.

NagatomiI understand... Creating bone structure with texture. Are there any tips?

FujiwaraThe key is to build it up by dividing it into small sections. Applying one color all over can look very heavy and flat, which isn't ideal. The more you divide it into smaller sections, the more it leads to a "lightness." And then, consider the overall picture. The human face naturally has contours, so you just need to emphasize them. If you try to minimize them with a negative mindset, the makeup can become heavy and actually emphasize flaws.

NagatomiI see. But with so many products available, it's easy to end up with a mismatched look when you're unsure.

Chanel's new cheek powder, Joues Contraste

FujiwaraThat's because you need to have a clear sense of what you like and what you find beautiful to make those choices. Choosing products means having a certain "philosophy"—though that might be an exaggeration—a standard of what you consider beautiful, or what you like. Without that standard, you can't choose.

NagatomiBut some people don't know what that standard is.

FujiwaraYes. But it's easy to find. For example, think about what kind of woman you admire. If you admire someone who is stylishly masculine yet also cute, then you probably wouldn't go for feminine long hair. You might opt for short hair with choppy bangs. Specific images emerge. You wouldn't choose a flowy, below-the-knee skirt, and you might prefer a shirt over a blouse. Your fashion sense starts to take shape. Once your fashion is decided, the necessary cosmetics naturally follow. For instance, instead of a rose lipstick, you might choose an orange or a light pink. So, having an image first is important.

Chiharu Nagatomi.

NagatomiSo, you flesh out the details from that image.

FujiwaraExactly! That's what I've been doing in this profession for many years. First, an image comes to mind. In my case, it appears as a picture, and then I choose cosmetics, clothes, and techniques to match that image. But without an image, it takes a very long time.

NagatomiThat's when uncertainty arises. What do you do in such cases?

FujiwaraFor example, I might look at or touch cosmetics and clothes. That can spark an image of a certain texture. Or I might be inspired by a model.

NagatomiI see. But it's amazing how you never run out of ideas, even when proposing makeup for so many magazines.

FujiwaraThat's because as products and trends constantly change, new images keep coming to me. Makeup requires both intellect and emotion. It's the same with current fashion. To express individuality, people mix and match from high-end to fast fashion brands as they please. That's creativity, isn't it? Makeup is the same.

NagatomiWhen I walk around the city, I see so many stylish women who are creative with their fashion, and just observing them is a great lesson in style. Also, more and more women seem to be genuinely enjoying being women. Because of that, I've been feeling lately that sticking to just one makeup pattern is boring.

FujiwaraMakeup inspired by fashion is an inseparable relationship. It's natural for them to be linked. I think everyone is starting to realize that.

With Makeup Artist Michiko Fujiwara
Michiko Fujiwara × Chiharu Nagatomi: A Conversation (Part 2)

Michiko Fujiwara's Autumn Trend Makeup (3)

Create 200% Makeup Within Yourself, Then Subtract

NagatomiEveryone is really enjoying fashion right now, aren't they? That's why I feel the possibilities for makeup are also expanding. But makeup still has a difficult image, doesn't it?

FujiwaraWhat differentiates makeup from fashion is that it requires technique. Unless you practice your technique, you'll never master it and will always be unskilled. The answer is simple: practice.

NagatomiIf you want to be beautiful, you have to practice, right?

FujiwaraAbsolutely. In lectures and Q&A sessions, I often get the question, "I don't know what makeup suits me." My suggestion is: "Even on a day off, try doing your makeup at 200%." Pile it on, pile it on, pile it on as much as you can (laughs). The result might be startling, but I believe there will be a moment when you think, "Ah!" as you start to take it off.

NagatomiI see!

FujiwaraIf you start with less and build up, those who usually wear light makeup might stop prematurely out of hesitation. But when you subtract, you can find the point that feels most like yourself. That's why I believe that starting with a heavier application and then reducing it increases the chances of discovering makeup that truly suits you for each feature.

NagatomiBy the way, when did your signature "Fujiwara-san style" of tying your hair back come about?

Chiharu Nagatomi

FujiwaraIn my early twenties, I wore my hair in a ponytail like now, but then came the techno boom, and I experimented with shaved sides, asymmetrical lengths, and even dreadlocks (laughs). After that, I had a bob with a center part for quite a long time. I cut it all off into a short style, but quickly got bored, so I used extensions to grow it out. About five or six years ago, I finally returned to this style. Ultimately, I feel most comfortable with my long hair tied back.

NagatomiLike what you said earlier about eyebrows, it really is important to try different things, isn't it?

Michiko Fujiwara.

FujiwaraYes. Because you can't know unless you try. I think that applies to many things.

NagatomiThis might be a sudden question, but what does makeup mean to you, Fujiwara-san?

FujiwaraAbove all, it's an expression of one's individuality. However, I don't wear makeup all the time. I wear it for shoots like today, but when I'm in Shimoda, for example, I go bare-faced.

NagatomiReally!? Is that so?

FujiwaraBecause full makeup doesn't suit a natural setting, and it would look strange. When I get home, I wash my face immediately, and I don't wear makeup at home.

NagatomiBut you're beautiful, Fujiwara-san, so I imagine your appearance doesn't change that much...

FujiwaraI don't think women always need to be perfectly made up. I always say this, but people who are passionately engaged in something are beautiful. However, sometimes makeup can get in the way. In that case, it's better not to wear it. For example, wearing full makeup while doing yoga or running would be odd, wouldn't it? I think matching your appearance to the time, place, and occasion is the most beautiful approach. Japanese women often present the same face everywhere, which I find strange. I have multiple makeup patterns within myself. Although they might look the same to others (laughs). My makeup time ranges from 3 minutes to 45 minutes. I adjust it according to my schedule and the location for the day.

NagatomiFrom 3 minutes to 45 minutes!? That's incredible.

FujiwaraBut as adults, we should have various personas, and adapting to the occasion is a matter of etiquette, isn't it? Isn't that what style is about? For example, if someone says, "I don't have a 'top' (occasion); I always do the same thing," then they could try making an effort, like going to Kinokuniya today when they usually shop at discount supermarkets. They could enjoy adopting a more sophisticated, 'madam' style for that occasion.

NagatomiJust that alone makes everyday life more enjoyable! And it helps one improve as a woman, in both makeup and fashion!! I'll start incorporating this not just from autumn makeup, but right away, and I'll be eagerly awaiting the release of autumn makeup items. Thank you so much, Fujiwara-san.