Kaori Nakano | 16th Installment: The University of Tokyo's "Renka" (2)
Beauty
March 18, 2015

Kaori Nakano | 16th Installment: The University of Tokyo's "Renka" (2)


Considering the Potential of Corporate Fragrance
Tokyo University's "Renka" Part 2


Stepping through the Akamon gate after a long absence, the University of Tokyo's shop has become remarkably modern. While still adjusting to the transformation, I'm also impressed by the high quality of the eau de parfum, "Renka." In this second installment, we delve into how the lotus scent was created.


Text by Kaori NakanoPhoto by Jamandfix




The Making of "Renka"



Kaori NakanoNow, let's finally hear about "Renka" itself. I assume the main scent component is lotus, but I must confess, I don't quite grasp the specific scent characteristics of the lotus flower itself.

Fumiko HirayamaIt has a slightly cool, somewhat medicinal sweetness, so it might not be universally appealing. It's not often used as the primary scent in perfumes.

NakanoIn English, it's lotus, right? Indeed, I haven't heard of many perfumes centered on lotus. I do recall seeing lotus incense, though. How is the scent extracted?

HirayamaIt's called the headspace method. We cover the flower with a glass container, and inside, we place a glass tube that adsorbs the scent. When a pump is activated, the air around the flower passes through the glass tube, and the scent components are adsorbed onto it. We then analyze this to recreate the fragrance. Lotus is a very delicate flower; its scent changes the moment it's removed from the soil. Therefore, the scent must be captured while it's still blooming. However, lotus flowers bloom early in the morning and their blooming period is very short, making scent collection incredibly challenging.

NakanoSo, despite the painstaking effort to capture the scent, it's not easily accepted...

HirayamaTruly (laughs). That's why lotus alone doesn't make a perfume for general consumption. As we developed prototypes, we added the pink and lovely imagery of the lotus. We used lemon and peach in the top notes, and in the middle, alongside the Oga lotus, we incorporated jasmine and rose to create a soft floral bouquet.





NakanoThe bottle's image, with its pink and green, is very 'lotus.' Did you consider making the bottle shaped like a lotus flower?

HirayamaRegarding the container, creating a new mold would incur significant costs. To ensure it's affordable, we opted for a simple bottle from the regional series.

NakanoIt is indeed 2,000 yen. Generally, with perfumes, if they're too inexpensive, there's a sense of distrust (laughs). I was actually quite apprehensive coming here today. But it's so well-crafted, exceeding any expectations based on its price, that I'm genuinely surprised.

HirayamaWe've minimized the container costs, and as part of our regional fragrance initiative, we hope it contributes to the local community. This is the result of keeping costs as low as possible.

Aya YoshiokaConsidering it's purchased as a souvenir, we couldn't set a higher price.

NakanoAre souvenirs a major factor, then?


YoshiokaInitially, our target was prospective students and current students (laughs). But there's significant demand from faculty and professors going to international conferences for souvenirs. And once it's on display, we see customers like housewives too.

NakanoHousewives? Like mothers of students applying?

YoshiokaEven those completely unrelated to the university often stop by when visiting Tokyo. Others discover it during walks in the neighborhood.

NakanoA housewife who knows that rarity is key for souvenirs. It makes sense that it's popular as a gift for professors attending conferences.

HirayamaWe initially aimed for a very unisex appeal targeting prospective students, but broadening the scope and ultimately settling on this fragrance was the right decision.



NakanoThere's a certain nostalgic quality to it. It's not a trendy, stylish scent, yet it doesn't feel old-fashioned either. The lotus provides a unique, non-sweet character, and while floral, it feels suitable for men too. Most importantly, it's a calming fragrance. It makes me feel like I could attain the serenity of Buddha sitting on a lotus... perhaps I'm exaggerating (laughs). How long did the development take?

HirayamaAbout a year.

NakanoWas the result what you envisioned?

Hirayama and YoshiokaWe're satisfied (laughs).





Fragrances Expressing Corporate and Organizational Identity



NakanoActually, when I first heard about "Renka," I found its positioning as a corporate fragrance quite interesting. If there are logos that instantly convey a company's identity, why shouldn't there be fragrances that communicate it with a single whiff?

HirayamaWhile not a fragrance in the same sense, I have created scents for spaces, such as for the Imperial Hotel Osaka. It's used for ambiance and is still diffused in their lobby.

NakanoThe scent of the Imperial Hotel Osaka!?

HirayamaWe also diffuse scents at the Takarazuka Revue theater. During performances, different scents are used in the lobby depending on the troupe.

NakanoLike a scent for the Star Troupe, or the Moon Troupe (laughs)? I didn't know that... It must heighten the mood. Are they sold?

HirayamaNo, they are strictly for spatial ambiance. A special device is installed in the air conditioning system to diffuse the scent throughout the large space. It's not a commercially viable business model. Fragrance is highly subjective, so I recognize the difficulty of implementing it in public spaces. Fortunately, we've never received any complaints.

NakanoActually, the idea of corporate fragrance first occurred to me about two years ago when I saw a perfume released by Claridge's Hotel in London.

HirayamaIs it a fragrance individuals can purchase?

NakanoYes, "Eau de Claridge's." It's placed subtly, almost inconspicuously, next to the hotel's flower shop, and it's a masterpiece that truly captures the scent of Mayfair! The Mayfair district evokes an image of old-fashioned, upper-class Britain. The musical "My Fair Lady" is a pun on 'Mayfair lady,' pronounced in Cockney.
This fragrance, "Eau de Claridge's," is what you'd imagine if you were to translate that image into scent. It's unique, unlike anything else, yet possesses a remarkable transparency. It's not sweet, nor overly masculine or feminine, leaving a noble impression. While I hesitate to share it too widely, it feels a shame to keep it a secret (laughs).






The University of Tokyo
Communication Center


7-3-1 Hongo, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
On the Hongo Campus, next to the Akamon (Red Gate)
OPEN:
Monday - Saturday 10:30 - 18:30
CLOSE: Sundays and Holidays
TEL. 03-5841-1039
http://shop.utcc.pr.u-tokyo.ac.jp/