Beauty
January 26, 2015
Miyoji Okabe | Vol. 18 How to Identify Your Skin Type
Miyoji Okabe Series
Vol. 18: How to Identify Your Skin Type (1)
Miyoji Okabe has been involved in the creation of numerous outstanding cosmetics during her time in the research and product development departments of major cosmetic manufacturers. Leveraging her unyielding pursuit of beauty, sharp insight, and deep knowledge as a researcher, she will explain various “beauty questions” from a scientific perspective.
Narration by Miyoji Okabe
Text by OPENERS
Photography by JAMANDFIX
To perform skincare more effectively, it’s important to know your own skin type. Beyond how well products blend and feel, and their effects, understanding your skin type is crucial for choosing suitable cosmetics. This time, we asked for the basic ways to identify skin types and key points for self-checking.
Sebum Production and Moisture Retention Are Key
Q. What determines your skin type?
The determining factors are sebum production, moisture retention, and susceptibility to dryness. Based on their balance, skin is classified into four types: oily skin, dry skin, combination skin, and normal skin.
Q. Please describe the characteristics of each type.
First, dry skin has low sebum production around the eyes and mouth, and on the cheeks, making it prone to dryness. It's characterized by makeup looking powdery and a weakened barrier function that can lead to skin irritation. Visually, the sebaceous glands are not well-developed, resulting in small pores and a fine skin texture. In fact, “slightly dry skin” can be considered the most beautiful-looking skin type.
Next, oily skin is characterized by a shiny T-zone that feels oily to the touch. Due to excessive sebum production, the sebaceous glands are active, pores are noticeable, and acne and other issues tend to occur frequently. Oily skin is also prone to foundation darkening.
Combination skin refers to skin that is oily in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) and dry in the O-zone (around the eyes and mouth). Strictly speaking, everyone has combination skin, but this category applies when the difference between these areas is significant.
Finally, normal skin. This type has balanced sebum production and doesn't experience dryness. Self-diagnosis often leads to overly critical assessments, so it's said that less than 10% of people fall into this category according to some surveys. However, if you don't fit into the other three types, you can consider yourself to have normal skin.
Q. Are there any precautions when self-diagnosing your skin type?
Generally, oily skin tends to increase in summer, and dry skin in winter. Some people find their skin type changes with the seasons, so it's advisable to check at least twice a year, in summer and winter. Ideally, it's best to assess it across all four seasons.
Q. Regarding timing, should I assess it after washing my face, or a few hours after skincare?
30 minutes after washing your face is best. Those with oily skin will start to feel shiny after 30 minutes, while those with dry skin will feel tightness within 30 minutes. If your T-zone is shiny and your cheeks feel tight, you have combination skin.
Miyoji Okabe Series
Vol. 18: How to Identify Your Skin Type (2)
Beware of Misconceptions About Your Skin Type!
Q. Are there cases where people misunderstand their skin type through self-diagnosis?
This is particularly common among young women who neglect oil replenishment in their daily skincare routine and believe they have dry skin. It's especially prevalent among those who don't fully understand the mechanism of moisturization. Moisturizing doesn't mean adding external water; it refers to retaining the skin's internal moisture by replenishing oils. It's important to note that incorrect skincare can alter diagnostic results.
Q. Please tell us the key skincare points for each skin type.
For dry skin, thorough oil replenishment is essential. Opt for rich-type lotions and creams that provide substantial moisture. The key is that your skin shouldn't feel tight during the day after morning application. For oily skin, thorough cleansing to remove excess oil, followed by a light-type lotion or cream, is recommended. For combination skin, the approach depends on which concern is more prominent. If dryness is the main issue, focus on T-zone care during cleansing, then proceed with dry skin care. If oiliness is the concern, follow oily skin care and add cream only to the dry areas.
Q. Does the care for irritated skin differ depending on skin type?
When your skin is irritated, regardless of your skin type, it's best to temporarily suspend your regular skincare routine. Use a gentle cleanser and apply only cream or a rich-type lotion for about two days, observing your skin's response. If the irritation persists or worsens, consult a dermatologist. When correct skincare doesn't resolve the issue, accurate diagnosis and medical treatment are the safest and most effective options.
Q. Can skincare change one's skin type?
Skincare aims to bring your skin to a well-conditioned state, similar to that of normal skin. Therefore, skincare alone cannot change a person with dry skin into someone with normal skin, or someone with oily skin into someone with dry skin. However, as we age, sebum gland activity can decrease, leading to dry skin. We must learn to live with our skin type over the long term. This is precisely why choosing appropriate cosmetics tailored to your skin type and practicing correct skincare are so important. Lastly, in addition to the four skin types discussed today, there is also sensitive skin. While it can coexist with dry, oily, or normal skin, it's a different axis of classification. We will discuss sensitive skin in detail next time.