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Feature | How to Make "Pirouette" | Chapter 3: Experience "Pirouette" Early
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Feature | How to Make "Pirouette" | Chapter 3: Experience "Pirouette" Early

The shoot took place at "Pirouette" just before its opening. From left: Kenichi Mori, CEO of Contrail; Naoya Kobayashi, chef in charge of Pirouette's kitchen; Advisory Chef Eric Trochon; food writer Megumi Komatsu; Art Director/Graphic Designer/Artist Shun Kawakami; and OPENERS Creative Director Norio Osumi.
All three are adults who love to enjoy food – true gourmands. Surrounded by seasonal information, accustomed to quality, and knowledgeable about authenticity, what was their experience of Pirouette?
On this day, Advisory Chef Eric Trochon also worked in the kitchen.
"It's a wonderful space. A place that reflects the current mood, offering authentic cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere," said Mr. Kawakami (left). "The high ceilings and the way light streams in, like a terrace. It has a sense of openness and relaxation, contrasting with the traditional image of Toranomon," added Ms. Komatsu.
The menu sampled by the three that day was the bistro's lunch course (¥3,000, excluding tax), consisting of soup, salad, main dish, and a post-meal beverage.
The first dish was "Corn Velouté with Nutmeg." A foamy, nutmeg-scented cream was poured over a corn soup made from small but flavorful corn delivered that day.
"To preserve the corn's aroma and moisture, we vacuum-seal it immediately upon arrival. The aroma dissipates quickly, so speed and timing are crucial. The cooking itself is simple, but we focus on executing each step with the best methods and timing," explained Head Chef Naoya Kobayashi.
After the first dish, Mr. Kawakami and Mr. Osumi showed interest in the "black" cutting board in front of them. "In France, it's common to use different colored cutting boards depending on the ingredients," Chef Kobayashi explained. Because the distance between the dining area and the kitchen is short, such casual conversations naturally arise.
The salad also changes based on the day's ingredients. Today, with a plentiful delivery of fennel, it was incorporated into the dish.
Mr. Trochon applying the finishing touches.
A dish born from Mr. Trochon's idea: a simple green salad served with fennel cake salé.
They were all captivated by the "rock and roll cuisine" that breaks away from classics.
"The cake salé was an idea from Advisory Chef Eric Trochon. He calls Pirouette's cuisine 'rock and roll cuisine.' It's a concept that doesn't adhere to tradition or classics, fitting for someone always trying new challenges," said Chef Kobayashi.
The main course, chosen from three options (meat, fish, or vegetable), is a prefixe. Mr. Kawakami chose the "Salmon Confit." High-quality, plump salmon from Scotland was slow-cooked to a medium-rare state and served with chickpea paste and fennel.
"Chefs can control the cooking temperature, but we can't control the inherent quality of the ingredients. We want to use ingredients that have undergone proper preparation at the right time," said Chef Kobayashi.
Mr. Osumi's choice, "Wagyu Beef Roast," was made with the thigh meat of Shorthorn beef that had been hung for about a month.
To Mr. Osumi's comment, "It's a simple roast, yet incredibly flavorful," Chef Kobayashi explained, "By hanging and aging the meat, it becomes tender yet deeply savory. It also lacks the distinct funkiness of dry-aging."
Mr. Mori also chose the "Salmon Confit," like Mr. Kawakami. Both agreed that the "cooking temperature was superb."
Ms. Komatsu's vegetable main, "Carrot Soba," was unique not only in its name but also in its combination. Roasted carrots and burdock root with butter and spices were served with soba groats, resembling couscous.
"The crunchy root vegetables bring out their aroma and sweetness with each bite. It's a dish that evokes Paris's popular couscous while highlighting the freshness of the vegetables. The soup and main course emphasized the sweetness of the ingredients, while the salad was light and refreshing. It's a well-balanced course that avoids monotony," said Ms. Komatsu.
The secret ingredient in "Carrot Soba" is spices like coriander and curry powder, adding a spicy and exotic aroma.
Mr. Osumi praised the high aromatic quality common to both the main dishes and desserts.
Mr. Kawakami and Mr. Osumi's choice: "Three Types of Grapes with Citronelle Jelly."
Mr. Kawakami, a self-proclaimed ice cream enthusiast, also raved about the milk ice cream served with the "Three Types of Grapes with Citronelle Jelly." Here too, ingredients that arrived that day – fruits, herbs, and spices – played a key role. "The lemongrass jelly infused with vanilla is also very tasteful. You can enjoy a variety of textures," he said.
Ms. Komatsu chose "Feuille à Feuille Chocolat." This featured a crispy pâte sucrée, two types of ganache made with Valrhona's Araguani, a thin, crisp chocolate layer, and ice cream flavored with aromatic tonka bean.
"Surprisingly light when eaten. The aroma of cacao and the floral scent of tonka bean spread through the mouth. It matches the lightness of the restaurant's ambiance," said Ms. Komatsu.
The desserts are handled by Yuta Takei, who was previously the second-in-command at the innovative patisserie "Libertable." "With his involvement, the desserts will continue to evolve. We want to offer desserts with a live feel, unique to a restaurant rather than a patisserie," said Chef Kobayashi.
After enjoying the course, the three were asked again for their impressions of Pirouette.
"The aroma of the ingredients and the dishes, the plating and cutlery to enhance them, the presentation. The precise timing from receiving ingredients to cooking and serving. I feel an artistic and thorough attention to detail in everything," said Mr. Osumi. "Although called a bistro, the dishes served go beyond that. Based on systematic gastronomic knowledge and techniques, they don't overtly emphasize the cuisine or reasonable prices, but remain subtle and light. I think this is Pirouette's unique charm," said Ms. Komatsu. "The cuisine, the space, the tableware, the service presentation, the plating... the overall sense of style is impeccable, truly capturing the 'now.' I'd love to bring people who appreciate both food and design here," said Mr. Kawakami.
After lunch, the three browsed the épicerie and wine sales area.
Naturally, the épicerie also featured ingredients used in the day's dishes.
In both the épicerie and wine sales areas, knowledgeable staff were on hand, fielding questions about the selection of rare vegetables and carefully chosen wines.
It's not just the cuisine that stimulates the curiosity of these gourmands at Pirouette. It's also the ingredients, the tableware, and the conversations with the chefs and staff. "Who should we invite next?" "Let's buy those delicious vegetables." "I want to see the tableware..." Here, a unique story unfolds for everyone, centered around food.
The common sentiment among the three – "I want to bring people who share my sensibilities here again" – was particularly striking. The comfort of this place undoubtedly draws in kindred spirits who appreciate authenticity.
The retail space offers items including tableware, as well as original coffee and tea.
"Actually, I've already made another reservation," said Ms. Komatsu (right). "It's a place you want to return to. Next time, I'd like to come for dinner and take my time," added Mr. Osumi.
Mr. Kawakami continued, "I might make a reservation too. I'll request this seat where I can see the entire open kitchen (laughs). I'm excited to see what kind of flavors the talented chef, who accurately expresses the 'now,' will create."
The world of Pirouette, experienced firsthand by these gourmands. How will it appear to your eyes? We encourage you to visit at least once. You'll surely want to bring your own kindred spirits.
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Feature: How to Create "Pirouette" | Chapter 3: Experiencing "Pirouette" Firsthand.

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