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The State of Japanese Bespoke Shoes Today | REGAL Gallery
Gallery
May 18, 2016

The State of Japanese Bespoke Shoes Today | REGAL Gallery

Regal's bespoke service allows for virtually any design to be ordered. A wide range of colors are available for basic materials like calf and suede, and rare exotic leathers such as crocodile and lizard can also be selected.
In addition to original designs, Regal's ready-made and sample models can also be ordered to your specifications. The order salon offers samples inspired by the historical archives of the American Regal brand, including a new wingtip with a round toe, characteristic of American shoes.
An open-laced plain-toe with a casual feel, this is another new bespoke sample with a distinct American taste. Regal regularly introduces such samples that highlight its brand identity, and these are also compiled in a catalog, which is helpful when you haven't yet settled on an image for your desired shoes.
The "Built to Order" system is recommended for bespoke beginners. It's a pattern order system, but with a wide range of choices for design, toe shape, upper leather, and sole & heel, you can create your favorite pair. The availability of such step-up systems is also a charm of Regal.
In addition to the abundant leather options available in swatch books, the bespoke service also offers a considerable selection of samples for details like medallions (perforated decorations on the toe). A fitting with a sewn sample, known as a 'baste fitting,' allows for adjustments to the upper design and fine-tuning of the fit, resulting in your ideal pair after about six months.
In addition to bespoke, Regal offers two other order systems. The "Kobo Kyubun Shiage" (Workshop 90% Finished) system allows you to choose designs and leathers from samples, with 90% of the process done by hand, similar to bespoke, and only the sole attachment done by machine. This allows you to experience comfort and fitting comparable to bespoke more easily.
A glimpse of the work in the bespoke atelier. Broguing, or decorative perforations, are applied one by one by hand. This manual process allows for fine adjustments to the placement and balance of each perforation, enhancing the overall finish. Unlike mass-produced shoes where patterns are stamped all at once by a press, this method allows for precision down to the millimeter.
The upper parts are carefully sewn together, stitch by stitch, using a specialized sewing machine. Reinforcements like the bar tacks on the heel quarters are sewn by hand, interlacing the thread to ensure strength. Notably, delicate tasks such as cutting, perforating, and upper stitching are primarily handled by female shoemakers skilled in intricate work.
The 'tsurikom' process involves stretching and securing the sewn upper onto the last to give the shoe its three-dimensional form. This is a crucial step in shaping the shoe. While ready-made shoes use machines to apply uniform tension, bespoke shoes are secured by applying varying degrees of force at different points, resulting in a more refined and sculpted silhouette.
Attaching the sole to the upper is a critical process that significantly impacts comfort and durability, often considered the lifeblood of men's shoes. Regal's bespoke service primarily employs the Hand-Sewn Welted method, a pinnacle of shoemaking. Using strong linen thread coated in pine resin, the sole is meticulously stitched to the upper with fine, consistent stitches.
The creation of the wooden last is also performed by artisans in the bespoke atelier. Since the same craftsman handles the measurements taken at the order salon and any subsequent adjustments to the last after the baste fitting, it's possible to craft a last perfectly suited to each individual's foot, ultimately leading to bespoke shoes with exceptional fitting.
The bespoke atelier at Regal's headquarters stocks a wide array of leather materials for bespoke shoes. This includes rare and expensive leathers not typically found in ready-made footwear. If, by chance, a desired leather cannot be found, they will even search for it specifically for the customer.
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Japan's Bespoke Shoes Today: The Regal Gallery

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