WATCH & JEWELRY /
WATCH NEWS
April 25, 2025
The Tudor Black Bay 58, reviving the beauty of a prototype.
TUDOR | The Black Bay 58
A new specification has been added to Tudor's popular "Black Bay 58" watch series. The newly announced model features a unified burgundy exterior and a movement that has achieved Master Chronometer certification for the first time in this model. It is also equipped with a five-link bracelet with the "T-fit" rapid adjustment clasp, making it a significant update in both design and functionality.
Text by Kosaku Waseda
Chic Burgundy: A New Allure for the Black Bay
The "Black Bay" collection represents Tudor's diver's watches, a lineage stretching back to the 1950s. While the "Black Bay" is known for its high reliability and accuracy, its aesthetic details are also noteworthy. One of its distinctive features is the square-shaped hands, commonly known as "snowflake." This design first appeared in brand catalogs in 1969 and has been beloved by fans ever since. Elements like the unprotected crown and the case shape inherited from the first model showcase vintage design cues throughout.
While inheriting over 70 years of Tudor's technology and philosophy, it has fused these with modern manufacturing techniques to forge a unique position, termed "neo-vintage," distinct from mere reissues. It embodies the appeal of a practical watch suitable for everyday wear, possessing high reliability, robustness, and precision.
Among the collection, the "Black Bay 58" is a particularly popular model. Its name is derived from Tudor's first 200m water-resistant diver's watch, "Ref. 7924 (Big Crown)," which debuted in 1958. The new model also inherits the design spirit of that historic timepiece, featuring a classic, compact 39mm proportion.
In addition to the existing design elements of the "Black Bay 58," this model draws inspiration from the "Submariner Ref. 79190," developed as a prototype in the 1990s. Although this model was never put into production, it was characterized by its glossy burgundy dial and bezel, the beauty of which has now been recreated. The allure of the so-called phantom prototype finally sees the light of day in 2025.
The burgundy color of the unidirectional rotating bezel is deep, and the sides feature a grip-enhancing texture. The numbers on the bezel insert curve gently along the outer edge, offering both legibility and aesthetic appeal. Furthermore, the seconds hand adopts a lollipop shape, reminiscent of early Tudor diver's watches. The dial features a brushed pattern with a satin-finished burgundy that radiates outwards, emitting a delicate sheen under light.
The newly designed crown, while ergonomically considered, features a curved form that evokes the crowns of historical models. It is integrated into the side of the middle case, with the tube concealed from view.
In addition to the five-link bracelet, the lineup includes a three-link bracelet and a rubber strap. All are equipped with the "T-fit" rapid adjustment clasp, allowing for micro-adjustments without tools. This is said to significantly enhance wearing comfort.
Moreover, this model has obtained Master Chronometer certification based on the stringent standards set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This signifies that it meets high-quality standards in all aspects, including not only timekeeping accuracy but also magnetic resistance and water resistance. Being tested in its fully assembled state, it serves as a significant mark of trust for the user.
This piece, with the functional and robust form of the "Black Bay" enhanced by the elegance of the burgundy color, is a testament to Tudor's own aesthetic sensibility towards its archives, reinterpreting the charm of a prototype.



Black Bay 58
Case | Polished and satin-finished stainless steel case
Case size | 39mm
Movement | Manufacture Caliber MT5400-U (COSC, METAS certified), self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor
Power reserve | 65 hours (certified by METAS)
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds; accurate time setting via seconds stop function
Bezel | Stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel with burgundy anodized aluminum insert
Crown | Stainless steel, screw-down, with embossed Tudor rose
Dial | Burgundy, domed, with applied hour markers
Crystal | Domed sapphire crystal
Water resistance | 200 m (660 ft)
Bracelet | Five-link or three-link "rivet style" stainless steel bracelet (polished and satin-finished), or rubber strap, with Tudor's "T-fit" rapid adjustment clasp
Case | Polished and satin-finished stainless steel case
Case size | 39mm
Movement | Manufacture Caliber MT5400-U (COSC, METAS certified), self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor
Power reserve | 65 hours (certified by METAS)
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds; accurate time setting via seconds stop function
Bezel | Stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel with burgundy anodized aluminum insert
Crown | Stainless steel, screw-down, with embossed Tudor rose
Dial | Burgundy, domed, with applied hour markers
Crystal | Domed sapphire crystal
Water resistance | 200 m (660 ft)
Bracelet | Five-link or three-link "rivet style" stainless steel bracelet (polished and satin-finished), or rubber strap, with Tudor's "T-fit" rapid adjustment clasp
Inquiries
Rolex Japan / Tudor
Tel. 0120-929-570
https://www.tudorwatch.com/ja