CHANEL | Basel Report: The 2013 New Watch Collection

CHANEL

2013 New Watch Releases: Baselworld On-Site Report

The J12 Collection Welcomes Its First Moon Phase

Moon phase watches are typically associated with classic, traditional designs. However, Chanel's new "J12" collection model, featuring its first-ever moon phase complication, captivates with its sheer beauty.

Text by SHIBUYA Yasuhito

The Most Sporty and Beautiful Moon Phase Watch Ever Created

Few would deny that Chanel's "J12" collection is a masterpiece in the history of sports watches. Jacques Helleu, who served as Chanel's Artistic Director for over 40 years, shaping its advertising and product design from his appointment in 1965 until his passing in September 2007, envisioned this timepiece.

Designed with the concept of an "eternal sports watch," this timepiece boldly utilizes high-tech ceramic—possessing a lustrous sheen like precious stones—for both the case and bracelet. It became a sensation, appealing to both men and women as a watch that, despite its sporty nature, possessed the allure of fine jewelry. At Baselworld 2013, the J12 collection introduced its first moon phase model, the "J12 Phase de Lune."

J12 Phase De Lune

Premiere Flying Tourbillon

The moon phase (in French, phase du lune) is a mechanism that most vividly symbolizes the intricate precision of watches, time, and calendars, all born from the structure of the cosmos. The moon orbits the Earth approximately every 27.3 days. The moon phase complication mechanically simulates this cycle and the resulting changes in its phases.

Historically, dating back to the era of pocket watches, the designs for this mechanism have predominantly been classic. Watch enthusiasts will likely be familiar with the common design featuring a rotating disc with a moon's face.

However, the moon phase complication on the J12 collection, presented as a sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position, is exquisitely beautiful, embodying Chanel's pursuit of aesthetic perfection. This sub-dial utilizes aventurine, which brilliantly reflects light, subtly scattering it from every angle to create a delicate, starry blue shimmer reminiscent of the cosmos, no matter the viewing perspective.

Furthermore, its display method is a significant draw: it employs a pointer system that clearly indicates the moon's current phase and its progression—from full moon to waning gibbous, new moon, waxing gibbous, and back to full moon—rather than relying on facial expressions. With a 38mm diameter, this is a fantastical piece that we highly recommend for both men and women.

Additionally, a new version of the chronograph model, named "Superleggera"—a term used for ultra-lightweight racing models of Italian sports cars—has made a comeback.ChronographThis is a model that car enthusiasts, in particular, should definitely take a look at.

For watch aficionados, another highlight to remember is the limited edition ladies' watch "Première" in its High Jewelry & FlyingTourbillonmodel. While the first model was unveiled in 2012, the new series released in 2013 features a special movement with a flying tourbillon, as its name suggests. This, combined with baguette-cut gemstones set along the bezel and case sides, creates a sublime radiance. It stands as one of the defining masterpieces of ladies' complication watches for 2013.

Furthermore, the exquisite pieces from the "Mademoiselle Privé" collection, embodying the pinnacle of artisanal craftsmanship, are not to be missed.