The pinnacle of elegance from a brand that embodies Japanese pride | GRAND SEIKO

GRAND SEIKO | Grand Seiko

Embodying Grand Seiko's Identity
A Perfect Balance of Function and Form

As dress watches are gaining attention, Grand Seiko has introduced an elegant model that represents the pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking. Beyond its classic design that asserts a confident presence at the cuff of a crisp, well-tailored shirt, the watch houses the latest caliber of Spring Drive, a unique mechanism, within its intricate workings.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

A Mechanism Boasting Compelling Beauty and the Pursuit of Precision

At first glance, I thought, 'What a beautiful and striking watch.' It possesses a nobility that needs no explanation. The sense of quality, conveyed directly from its appearance, resonates with our Japanese DNA through its soft case curves and exquisite finishing.

Consider the silhouette, for instance, where the case side twists and then smoothly transitions into a straight line towards the lugs. Such beautiful and lustrous lines are surprisingly rare. Many other designs are more linear or feature multi-faceted, robust constructions. While those have their own structural beauty, they don't quite evoke that breathtaking feeling.

Furthermore, the dial, which expresses a snow pattern, and the model where this pattern is extended to the case itself, are the work of skilled artisans. This is the pinnacle of craftsmanship, possessing the overwhelming presence unique to handmade pieces. The shadows created by the texture, meticulously rendered by human hands, are deep and meaningful, leading to a 'specialness' that testifies to the dedication involved. Guilloché, or machine engraving. Even though it's 'machine' work, it's the artisan's touch and feel that guides the tool against the watch case. While Swiss guilloché tends to be linear or concentric, geometric in nature, this snow pattern is organic, depicting the ephemerality and transience of natural phenomena. I personally prefer this approach, where the watch case appears almost like an extension of the skin.

Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary Model

Meanwhile, this model is equipped with the latest manual-wind caliber of Spring Drive, which celebrates its 20th anniversary. Spring Drive is a hybrid system, a fusion of mechanical and quartz technologies, where a mainspring powers the gears, but a quartz crystal precisely controls their speed. Its high mechanical torque allows it to drive thick, substantial gold hands. And its precision is vastly different from purely mechanical watches. While Grand Seiko's mechanical models have a daily rate of approximately +5 to -3 seconds, Spring Drive achieves a daily rate of ±1 second, a significant difference. Even though Grand Seiko's mechanical watches meet or exceed COSC standards for accuracy, Spring Drive surpasses them.

The new caliber also features the novel 'Dual Spring Barrel' mechanism. By housing two mainsprings within a single barrel, it significantly extends the power reserve compared to a standard manual-wind Spring Drive. It also incorporates the 'Torque Return System,' proven in 'Credor,' another of Seiko's luxury brands. This Torque Return System is an ingenious mechanism that recycles the excess energy released when the mainspring unwinds to move the hands, channeling it back to rewind the mainspring. One might liken it to a regenerative braking system in a car—an eco-friendly, 21st-century mechanism that reuses energy loss.

To summarize, this caliber is equipped with two advanced mechanisms: the 'Dual Spring Barrel' and the 'Torque Return System.' As a result, the power reserve has been extended to 84 hours, compared to the 48 hours of a typical manual-wind Spring Drive caliber. Generally, a power reserve of around 60 hours is considered desirable, allowing the watch to be worn again on Monday morning after being taken off on Friday evening. This timepiece comfortably exceeds that benchmark.

Incidentally, the 18K yellow gold and stainless steel variations of this model do not feature the Torque Return System. However, with the 'Dual Spring Barrel' alone, they achieve a power reserve of 72 hours, which is more than satisfactory.

What do you think? This latest creation from Grand Seiko. I believe it is a piece that Japan can proudly present to the world. While the price is substantial, I hope it finds its way to the wrists of those who truly appreciate it—individuals who will showcase Japan's identity on a global stage. It is a truly exquisite model from 2019.

Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary Model