YOKO and TAKASHI: How Was Baselworld? | BASELWORLD2018
BASELWORLD 2018 | Baselworld 2018
YOKO and TAKASHI's Baselworld Coverage Diary (1)
600 companies withdrew; that's quite something, isn't it?
TAKASHIYOKO-san, how many years has it been since your last Basel coverage trip?
YOKOActually, I've forgotten how many years it's been. It was definitely before the renovations.
TAKASHIThen you must have been surprised when you actually saw it? That huge void!
YOKOIt had more character than I expected, changing with the time of day. I thought, 'Oh, this is actually quite nice.' I underestimated it just from looking at photos.
TAKASHIThere you go with the stylish expressions again. But it seems the news reports were saying you were disappointed by the reduced scale.
YOKOI felt that. The number of people, including the general public, felt much more bustling before. Also, each booth has become larger.
Perhaps that's reflected in the disappointment around here.
TAKASHI600 companies withdrew; that's quite something, isn't it? Although, the majority were small jewelry brands.
YOKO600 companies at once – that's almost a social crisis level. It's terrifying to think about the impact on surrounding accommodations and the decline in spending. But what could be the reason for the decrease?
TAKASHIEconomic stagnation? The precious metals business, including watches, relies on patrons, doesn't it? Japan was once the world's leading patron during the bubble era.
YOKOI did feel a decrease in visitors from Asia, including China, and from Arab countries.
TAKASHIBut even in such circumstances, I felt the brands' commitment. After all, they were all showcasing their bestsellers, weren't they?
YOKOIn my memory, everyone used to develop new mechanisms rapidly, especially the tourbillon development race. Each company felt immense energy in development, aiming to create unique tourbillons. They were all boasting about the movements they had created, focusing on the technology itself rather than sales.
TAKASHIThat atmosphere still remains for the super-rich. On the other hand, I noticed more daily models aimed at the middle class, rather than just a select few wealthy individuals. The most prominent example of this was Rolex's 'GMT-Master'.
The stainless steel model with the blue and red bezel – that's like the grand finale of the year-end Kohaku Uta Gassen, isn't it? Like Sabu-chan's 'Matsuri'.
YOKOPerhaps it's because I'm from the generation that experienced the bubble economy, but I thought, 'Hmm, maybe it's a bit understated?' When they introduced new products, they'd start with a gorgeous model, and the daily models would appear around the third presentation. However, it's true that the daily models shown this time impressed me with their high cost performance. The craftsmanship is solid, and the quality has undoubtedly improved. Moreover, the pricing isn't outrageous. That's where I felt, 'Times have changed.'
TAKASHIIf they priced them outrageously now, they'd be torn apart online, right? That's how much information circulates. By the way, YOKO-san, what was the model that stuck in your memory this year?
YOKOBulgari Octo Finissimo. The year I first came to Basel, Bulgari announced the Aluminum. It's common now for jewelry brands to produce high-quality watches, but to see such a level of watchmaking in their lineup made me realize how much time had passed. That's why this model stood out.
TAKASHI
The Octo Finissimo won an award at GPHP last year and was quite the topic. Indeed,102912+102713+103011_001_cre

The efforts of brands other than watchmakers are also remarkable. On the other hand, everyone was talking about GUCCI. They incorporated fashion motifs like moths and roses directly into their watches, doing some really wild things. I thought they were quite energetic.
YA1264062_CMYK
Yes, this one! It gave me a sense of reassurance. And they weren't just being wild; they maintained GUCCI's stance on craftsmanship, which is meticulous. That's what impressed me.Having a wide array of models lined up is also part of the fun unique to fashion brands. It gave me that exciting feeling of 'Which one should I choose?'
TAKASHI
Exactly. Whether it's mechanical innovation or traditional craftsmanship, anything that makes us excited is...GUCCI "G-Timeless".
The best. GUCCI, while having some compromises due to its price range, clearly conveyed its mindset.
YOKO
Previously, changing watch straps required special tools, which was a hurdle, especially for women. This year, several brands offered models with easily interchangeable straps, which I thought was great. I recall that mechanism being patented by someone, right?TAKASHI
You mean the ones that don't require a spring bar tool (laughs)? Camille Fournet was working on those early on. Apparently, the patent has expired.YOKO
As expected, everyone is so perceptive! The idea of interchangeable straps didn't catch on before partly because it was too much hassle. Also, tourbillons are now available for around a million yen, and complex watch mechanisms that were once expensive are now being incorporated into daily models.TAKASHI
Longines Annual Calendar. It's amazing that they're offering this mechanism for around 200,000 yen. What's more, they say they haven't received technical assistance from Omega within the group. The brand's uniqueness is truly impressive. Last year, they also releasedVHP, a high-precision quartz, showcasing the underlying strength of mass-market brands.YOKO
Speaking of high-precision quartz, there's CITIZEN. Towards their 100th anniversary, they've developeda new movement with an annual accuracy of ±1.0 second. It feels like a new era of precision.TAKASHI
After all, the fundamental role of a watch manufacturer is to keep accurate time independently, not relying on other sources.Grand Seiko is also challenging again to improve the accuracy of mechanical movements withVFA.
YOKOIn the 1960s, official certifications were important, but now they are refining 'accuracy' from their own unique standpoint. Considering that accuracy has always been a measure of a watch's value, the competition in movement development continues.
From left: Longines "Longines Master Collection" (Annual Calendar), Citizen "Cal.0100" (Concept Model), Grand Seiko "Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Limited Model SBGH265".
Page02.Reassured by Breitling's Unchanged Stance?
BASELWORLD 2018 | Baselworld 2018
YOKO and TAKASHI's Baselworld Coverage Diary (2)
Reassured by Breitling's Unchanged Stance?
TAKASHIHey, YOKO-san, you've covered Breitling many times. What did you think about the company's management change this time?
YOKOLike many Breitling fans, I was certainly apprehensive about the new CEO. But I was afraid to know the answer, so I tried not to think about it too much.
TAKASHIHe seems to have climbed the ranks within the Richemont Group. They say he revived IWC and then became a leading figure for the entire group. To abandon that position and become Breitling's CEO must take courage. Wasn't he already secure in his previous role?
YOKOApparently, he quit a top position in a certain Richemont division just to come to Breitling. Furthermore, he reportedly acquired Breitling shares himself upon taking the role, so he must have had a very strong passion for it.
TAKASHIIt's the largest company still said to be independent, isn't it? It must be a brand with a lot of sentimental value for Swiss people too."Navitimer 8". I personally like it.
YOKOBreitling has many core fans, so I imagine many were upset when they realized the Navitimer 8 didn't have a slide rule. But the new CEO, Georges Kern, thoroughly studied Breitling's history and created the Navitimer 8 as a model reflecting that heritage... I think it's a great series.
TAKASHII like the non-chrono models. They seem practical. Also, the general-purpose chronographs, which don't necessarily use in-house movements, are very well-executed and address specific needs.
YOKOExactly! Considering that the prices of models with in-house movements have increased, and many fans couldn't afford them, it's good that more people can now experience Breitling's world.
I think it's wonderful that it's now accessible. Personally, I was drawn to the gold case of theNavitimer three-hand model.
Speaking of new CEOs...
TAKASHIIn terms of CEO changes, there's Romain Jerome. They've rebranded to RJ and are making a fresh start.
YOKOThis brand has a reputation for being a bit tricky. Has anything changed with the new CEO?
TAKASHIYes, the case finishing has dramatically improved. It conveys a sense of quality just by looking at it, and it sat very well on the wrist. I think the wearer would feel quite satisfied.
YOKOWhat about the price? I recall it being a bit on the higher side.
TAKASHIThe price range remains the same. They've put in a lot of effort. They're doing everything they can without changing the price.
YOKOI see. Speaking of CEOs, Mr. Biver is still going strong and was quite noticeable.
He was actively promoting at the booths of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot, which left a strong impression.
TAKASHIHe was being questioned by local reporters. They asked him about his company's withdrawal, given that 600 companies had pulled out. He responded emphatically, 'To protect the Swiss watch industry, withdrawing from Baselworld is out of the question.'
YOKOIf Mr. Hayek of the Swatch Group were still alive, he would have said the same thing. Basel remains a global icon for the watch industry, and there's a strong will to keep it that way.
TAKASHII wonder how many watches we touched during this period? It's a grueling task, rushing from one brand's booth to the next every 30 minutes, leaving us cold in body and spirit. Yet, I clearly remember the feel of the case lines confirmed by a gentle touch of my fingertips.
YOKONow that brands release information online simultaneously with Baselworld's opening, I believe the real value of attending Basel lies precisely there.
TAKASHIPhotos can be quite deceiving. And the feeling on the wrist. Real versus virtual. There's always a gap.
YOKOWhen the photos and the actual watches differ significantly, the namePatek Philippe inevitably comes up. While there are many aspects to praise, what personally impresses me is the texture of the metal. That's something photos can't capture.
TAKASHIThe charm of Patek Philippe cannot be captured in two dimensions. No other brand has refined tradition to this extent.
YOKOPatek Philippe's approach of adding white gold case models to existing lines while discontinuing yellow gold models is also unique to them. If they find white gold more appealing than yellow gold, they'll simply discontinue it.
A typical brand would say, 'We've expanded our lineup,' but they don't do that.
Perhaps that attitude is also a sign of their top-tier status.
TAKASHIMinute repeaters were also present this year. And not just any, but aworld time model that distinguishes between home time and local time.
YOKOAdding complex mechanism upon complex mechanism, continuously layering them – that's a level of technical skill only Patek Philippe can achieve. Being able to see, touch, and hear these ultra-complex models directly is a precious opportunity. After all, there aren't many chances to experience them in Japan, are there?
TAKASHIIndeed. But I wonder how super-rich one must be to travel overseas with a minute repeater model?
(End)
AddendumOn July 30, 2018, the organizers of Baselworld announced the withdrawal of the Swatch Group from 2019 onwards. Simultaneously, they declared their intention to energize this world's largest watch fair alongside the remaining brands.












