The New RJ, Hinting at a Swiss Watch 2.0 Era, and the New CEO's Ambitions | RJ
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
July 30, 2018

The New RJ, Hinting at a Swiss Watch 2.0 Era, and the New CEO's Ambitions | RJ


RJ


Reigniting Swiss Watchmaking Prowess
From the Former Romain Jerome to the New RJ (Part 1)


In my view, RJ underwent the most dramatic transformation at BASELWORLD 2018 (to be precise, RJ held its own independent presentation at a hotel adjacent to BASEL WORLD). The brand name was changed from the former Romain Jerome to RJ, and a new CEO was appointed in December of last year. This new CEO is remarkably young, becoming the head of a global brand in his early thirties, yet he is no mere lucky "yuppie." In just over two months, he has re-envisioned the brand concept and even produced prototypes for new models. This article summarizes the content of an interview conducted with the new CEO during his visit to Japan after BASEL WORLD. I believe this article will be helpful in assessing the future potential of the new RJ. The feeling is very good! This brand seems poised for significant growth.

Photographs by SUZUKI Takuya (Portrait)Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)




New Slogan: #JUSTRAW





To begin, before becoming CEO, how did the watch brand Romain Jerome appear to you, Marco?

MarcoIt's a very unique brand. I also like the characters and DNA it has focused on. Its strong individuality, incomparable to other brands, was something I personally admired.

How will this brand change under your leadership, Marco?

MarcoWe are going to change the branding. As part of that, the name has changed. We've changed the brand name from "Romain Jerome" to "RJ."

However, I see this not as launching a new brand, but simply clarifying the brand's current status while retaining its original name.


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Marco Tedeschi, the new CEO of RJ.





Nevertheless, changing the name is a significant step for a brand. Please tell us the specific meaning behind the new name, "RJ."

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Arrow Chronograph 45MM


Movement | Automatic
Case Material | Black Ceramic
Case Diameter, Thickness | 45mm, 14.8mm
Case Back | Sapphire Crystal
Strap Material | Rubber (Interchangeable)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Price | ¥1,640,000 (excluding tax)






MarcoRJ is an abbreviation of the founders' names, Romain and Jérôme, but since the founders are no longer with the company, the name itself doesn't hold any special meaning.

In fact, for about the past eight years, we haven't used the brand name Romain Jerome, and have already been using the initials RJ on the dial. We've simply brought this to the forefront now. However, along with this name change, we aim to transition from a niche brand focused on marketing to a more authentic and serious luxury mechanical watch brand.

Specifically, how will it change?

MarcoFirst, we plan to establish three pillars. One is the "Arrow Collection" presented at BASEL WORLD. We believe this model will form the foundation of the new RJ. Next are the collections rooted in the brand's original DNA, such as the Titanic collection. And then, collaboration models with various characters.

In summary, we aim to grow the brand with the Arrow Collection, DNA, and collaborations as our pillars.

Indeed, the updated exterior of the Arrow Collection was clearly impressive, and its quality radiated from every angle. This differs from the former Romain Jerome's concept of emphasizing individuality through storytelling. Could you explain the intention behind this?



MarcoThe former Romain Jerome, while rich in storytelling for individual models, lacked elements that demonstrated its quality as a luxury watch. Therefore, with the newly launched Arrow Collection, we aim to showcase the high performance of RJ's watchmaking.

For example,

1We changed the case material of the standard models from stainless steel to titanium.
2We switched from black PVD to a higher quality black ceramic.
3For gold models, we upgraded the alloy composition to further enhance the texture.
4We adopted an interchangeable strap system for easier strap changes.

Additionally, we will announce our in-house movement at next year's SIHH. This is the first step towards transitioning all RJ brand models to in-house movements in the near future.

You mean becoming a manufacture?

MarcoYes. At the same time, we will leverage the brand's strengths in storytelling and DNA.

Since you became CEO, improvements have been rapidly made. How have you achieved this? Is it due to industry connections? Or has the production scale changed?

MarcoActually, I took office as CEO on December 23, 2017. It was the winter vacation period in Switzerland, but even during my break, I was constantly thinking about "how to shape the new RJ" and even sketching designs myself.

I believe the prototypes came to fruition thanks to the good personal relationships I've built with various suppliers over the past decade during the two months leading up to BASEL WORLD.

Page02.Brands Must Keep Challenging




RJ


Reigniting Swiss Watchmaking Prowess
From the Former Romain Jerome to the New RJ (Part 2)



Brands Must Keep Challenging


Marco, you were previously with Hublot, weren't you?

MarcoYes. I was with Hublot for 11 years. For the last six years, I was in charge of product development.

So you are well-versed in the know-how required for creating luxury watches.

MarcoIndeed. Furthermore, and this is very important for RJ's future production system, we acquired Brainee Moments, a company specializing in movement and case manufacturing, around the time of this year's BASEL WORLD.

The prototype cases for the Arrow Collection were also developed with Brainee Moments. In other words, we've collaborated from the beginning, and now we are truly aligned. It's all about connections (laughs).



What is the scale of Brainee Moments?

MarcoIt's a company with 4 employees and 3 large specialized machines, including CNC machines. While not large in scale, it's an essential organization for RJ to become a manufacture.

What is RJ's planned production volume going forward?

MarcoLast year, we produced 800 units annually. This year, we are projecting 1,500 units.

That's nearly double! Will the in-house movement planned for announcement in 2019 also leverage Brainee Moments' expertise?

MarcoYes. However, since we've fully acquired them, it's considered 100% in-house.

For a small company producing 1,500 units annually to develop an in-house movement seems like a very high value-add. However, is that value-add truly necessary? Does it align with the production scale?

MarcoThings that other brands can't do are inherently attractive. Being able to officially announce an in-house movement is a strength for any brand that prides itself on high quality.


06_RJ_OPENERS

Arrow Chronograph 45MM


Movement | Automatic
Case Material | Titanium
Case Diameter, Thickness | 45mm, 14.8mm
Case Back | Sapphire Crystal
Strap Material | Rubber (Interchangeable)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Price | ¥1,360,000 (excluding tax)





First, the in-house movement we will unveil in 2019 is planned as a complication model with an open-worked face. Then, by 2020, we aim to transition all models to in-house movements.

Your goals are set very high.

MarcoBrands aren't interesting if they don't keep challenging themselves (laughs).

Also, I have something else to share. Sergio Silva has joined the new RJ team. He worked at Roger Dubuis for 12 years and, along with Carlos, was involved in the development of various movements. In other words, he was instrumental during the era when that brand produced a variety of exceptional movements each year.

After that, Sergio demonstrated his skills at HYSEK, releasing 32 movements over 9 years. We are proud to have such a talented movement designer join RJ.

At the beginning of the interview, you explained the three pillars of the new RJ. It seems the first pillar is already becoming quite substantial.

MarcoThat's right. This is the foundational work for the brand.

For a luxury watch brand, exterior quality is crucial. The satisfaction of wearing the watch is particularly important. Please explain the key points of refinement in the Arrow Collection.

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13_RJ_OPENERS

11_RJ_OPENERS


MarcoFor the new case of the Arrow Collection, we incorporated a significant amount of ergonomics based on our experience. The lug shape also differs considerably from previous designs, and I believe the fit has clearly improved.

I tried it on myself, and it feels very good. But why is there such a significant difference?

MarcoIt's simply the accumulation of details. If you look at the previous models, the case, lugs, and strap were designed separately, resulting in gaps. In contrast, the new design is integrated, with the case, lugs, and strap harmonizing beautifully into a single, flowing form.

Indeed, there are no gaps between the lugs and the strap, and no step difference with the bottom of the case. It feels integrated when worn on the wrist.

MarcoRegarding the buckle as well, there's a sense of balance with the watch case in terms of weight. Therefore, I believe the watch is less likely to shift.

Page03.We Must Not Forget the Brand's Roots




RJ


Reigniting Swiss Watchmaking Prowess
From the Former Romain Jerome to the New RJ (Part 3)



We Must Not Forget the Brand's Roots





Do you have any brands that you consider rivals, Marco?

MarcoThat's a tough question (laughs). However, given the brand's unique personality, I don't see any direct competitors in that regard. In terms of watch design, there are likely no brands competing with the Arrow Collection. But in terms of price range, we might overlap with brands like Panerai. This is purely from a pricing perspective, of course.

I understand you were previously with Hublot, Marco. What do you analyze as the reasons for Hublot's success? And how do you plan to apply that success to RJ?

MarcoThe most important thing for a brand is its product. If the product isn't truly excellent, no amount of marketing can salvage it. Therefore, the new RJ has upgraded its products themselves.

In the Swiss luxury watch industry, what do you see as the main issues, Marco? And how will you approach these issues?

MarcoIt's crucial not to forget the brand's roots. While it's important for the output to evolve, the roots must not be forgotten.

Also, being creative is essential.


07_RJ_OPENERS

Arrow Chronograph 45MM


Movement | Automatic
Case Material | 18K Pink Gold & Titanium Combination
Case Diameter, Thickness | 45mm, 14.8mm
Case Back | Sapphire Crystal
Strap Material | Rubber (Interchangeable)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Price | ¥1,910,000 (excluding tax)






01_RJ_OPENERS

PAC-MAN LEVEL Ⅲ


Movement | Automatic
Case Material | Black PVD-coated Titanium
Case Diameter, Thickness | 46mm, 15.5mm
Strap Material | Rubber
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥2,050,000 (excluding tax)
Limited Edition | World limited to 80 pieces






If a brand loses its creativity, it will quickly resort to copying other brands and lose its identity.

You were at Hublot, a highly successful brand. What was the reason for you coming to RJ?

MarcoWhen I joined Hublot in 2007, it was still a small company with about 40 employees. Over time, it grew into a large company with over 500 employees. During that growth process, I felt a strong sense of having "accomplished it all."

I'm only 32 years old, and I wanted to remain a challenger, so I accepted this position.

I have a feeling that ambitious young individuals will continue to emerge from major Swiss brands and make moves like yours. What do you think?

Marco(Laughs). Even if they don't leave, many brands are currently undergoing CEO transitions.

Although they are considered young in the industry, they are about 10 years older than me.

I believe these shifts will change the Swiss watch industry. Of course, I want to change it even more than they do.




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http://eaurouge.tokyo




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