Birth of the In-House Movement "CHANEL Caliber 1. Jumping Hour"

The Chanel in-house movement "CHANEL Caliber 1. Jumping Hour" powering the Monsieur de Chanel is composed of 170 parts. Developed over five years, this manual-winding movement is a complete original, designed with the Monsieur de Chanel's unique philosophy in mind, integrating the complication mechanism directly into the baseplate, unlike modified movements with added modules.

The development of this movement reportedly involved numerous technical challenges. The jumping hour, indicated by an aluminum hour disc that instantly switches at the 6 o'clock position on the dial, is realized through a unique, newly designed mechanism. Chanel has overcome the difficulties of precise control over energy consumption and impact during this rapid transition with its exceptional watchmaking expertise.



Furthermore, the other complication, the off-centered retrograde minute display, features a minute hand that sweeps across a 240-degree arc every hour, repeating its motion. This minute hand can also be adjusted in both directions, allowing for effortless time setting without concerns about malfunctions. Due to the wide 240-degree retrograde arc, it requires substantial energy and places a significant load on the mechanism. However, by arranging two barrels in parallel, it achieves a power reserve of up to three days, and it is meticulously engineered to ensure that the impact generated by the minute hand's jump does not affect accuracy.

Looking at the case back design, one can see how Chanel's brand codes are intricately incorporated into the movement, highlighted by two circular bridges. The ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) coating and the meticulously calculated, beautiful three-dimensional structure are captivating. The varied blacks, utilizing matte and glossy textures, further enhance the movement's splendor. Chanel's pride in pursuing authenticity, distinct from other brands, is evident in this exquisite finishing.

Meticulous Design, a Hallmark of Haute Couture Brands

Of course, the movement is not the sole allure of this timepiece. Examining the details of the Monsieur de Chanel reveals that motifs, not only on the movement but also on the buckle and crown, are adorned with a lion motif. The symbol Chanel chose as a masculine icon for this watch evokes reverence for the "true man" worthy of wearing it.

Conversely, the case and dial are remarkably simple. Chanel's creation studio opted for a round case to beautifully showcase the jumping hour and retrograde mechanisms. The meticulous design evident throughout is a unique charm characteristic of watches crafted by a couture house.

Moreover, the opalescent ivory dial, with its subtle shimmer, presents a restrained presence despite housing two complex mechanisms. It exudes an expression befitting a gentleman's attire. This simple dial, contrasted with the three-dimensional "CHANEL Caliber 1. Jumping Hour" emphasizing the curves of the baseplate and bridges, is a testament to Chanel's uncompromising aesthetic sensibility.

The Monsieur de Chanel, a unique style born from exceptional craftsmanship, will be available in Japanese stores this summer. This ultimate complication watch, which generated the most buzz at this year's Baselworld, is sure to captivate many watch enthusiasts in Japan as well.










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