Van Cleef & Arpels | Geneva Salon: A Comprehensive Report!
Van Cleef & Arpels
A Highly Anticipated New Addition to the "Poetic Complications" Collection
Simultaneously a marvel of precision engineering and a supreme work of jewelry art, Van Cleef & Arpels watches possess a charm distinct from those of dedicated watchmaking brands. The "Poetic Complications" series perfectly embodies this essence, and this year sees the arrival of captivating new creations.
Text & Event Photographs by SHIBUYA Yasuhito
Renowned as a premier haute joaillerie maison, Van Cleef & Arpels has, since 2006, also captured the attention of watch aficionados with its groundbreaking concept of "Poetic Complications" – timepieces that translate romantic narratives into complex mechanical expressions.
This year's new releases continue the story that began in 2007 with "Lady Arpels Fairy," depicting a fairy bestowing "happiness, love, and joy" upon a sleeping infant in a cradle, rendered through a retrograde mechanism. The following year, 2008, saw the evolution to "Lady Arpels Jour et Nuit," which illustrated the girl's growth and her stroll through Paris on a dial that completed one rotation in 24 hours. Then, in 2010, this young woman fell in love with a gentleman, and at the center of a bridge over the Seine, they exchanged a kiss at midnight and noon each day.—This moment was depicted in "Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux" using a retrograde mechanism.
The two new models, presented under the name "Poetic Wish," are a sequel, depicting the subsequent chapter for this young woman and gentleman. The most significant difference from the preceding models lies in the dramatic advancement of the incorporated complications. Beyond the traditional dual retrograde display for hours and minutes, these timepieces feature a display of time via three automata (automaton figures) and a "5-minute repeater mechanism" that chimes the current time in five-minute intervals with exquisite sound. In essence, the unfolding romance is now further embellished with luxurious complications and an artistic accompaniment.
The story is still unfolding with these new models. While it may be a bit premature, the anticipation of what comes next is part of the allure of these watches.
"Midnight Poetic Wish" Watch
A young man entrusting his wish to a shooting star
From atop Notre Dame Cathedral, a young man gazes towards the Eiffel Tower, thinking of his beloved, now far away. The "Poetic Wish" collection's men's model depicts the drifting clouds and a shooting star carrying his wish towards the Eiffel Tower, rendered through intricate mechanisms. At 2 o'clock, operating the crown causes the young man, standing on the cathedral terrace, to advance slowly towards the center of the dial, stopping at the precise marker indicating the hour. Simultaneously, a small mother-of-pearl cloud moves along the same horizon, and as they meet, the bells of Notre Dame chime via the 5-minute repeater mechanism. Following this, a shooting star, set with diamonds, emerges from behind the cloud, indicating the minutes. The movement was developed exclusively for this model.
Manual winding, white gold case set with a total of 5.4 carats of baguette-cut diamonds, case diameter 43mm. Price ¥53,130,000 (preliminary), made to order.
"Lady Arpels Poetic Wish" Watch
A maiden sending her thoughts on a flying kite
A maiden on top of the Eiffel Tower gazes towards Notre Dame Cathedral, thinking of her beloved. This ladies' version depicts drifting clouds and a kite carrying her wish towards Notre Dame Cathedral, using the same mechanism as the men's model. While similar to the men's model, the dial's components feature exquisite gold micro-engraving, miniature painting, and sculpted crystal and mother-of-pearl, crafted by master artisans. The diamonds set on the bezel are of DEF color grade and VVS clarity, imbuing it with the value of a supreme jewelry creation.
Manual winding, white gold case set with a total of 3.4 carats of diamonds, case diameter 39mm. Price ¥45,780,000 (preliminary), made to order.
"Pierre Arpels Watch 38mm"
A legendary men's watch bearing the name of a legendary gentleman
Pierre Arpels, a leading European industrialist, became a pivotal figure in establishing the current glory of Van Cleef & Arpels after World War II, acting in a role akin to a creative director. The special model he commissioned for himself in 1949 was commercialized in 1971 and has long been cherished as a masterpiece representing Van Cleef & Arpels' men's watches. It features a discreet and restrained Roman numeral dial, a unique attachment connecting the case and bracelet—devised in place of lugs to achieve a "perfect circle"—and an exceptionally thin case designed to subtly reveal itself from beneath a cuff without snagging on the shirt. The latest iteration is a contemporary reinterpretation of this iconic model.
Manual winding, pink gold case, diamond-set crown. Case diameter 38mm. Price ¥1,438,500 (preliminary), scheduled for release this autumn.
Van Cleef & Arpels
0570-00-8202
http://www.vancleef-arpels.com/