WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
March 30, 2015
Girard-Perregaux | Girard-Perregaux 2011 S.I.H.H. Report!
Girard-Perregaux
A 220th Anniversary Collection Distilling Its Own History
Showcasing an Unwavering Philosophy of Watchmaking for the Future!
It has been exactly 220 years since the founder, watchmaker Jean-François Bautte, created a watch bearing his own name. In this commemorative year, Girard-Perregaux presents a captivating new collection that follows the royal road of watchmaking.
By Yasuhito Shibuya
At the end of October last year, Girard-Perregaux suffered the tragic loss of Luigi Macaluso, who had led the brand as owner and president since 1992 and had rebuilt and greatly developed it with his exceptional design and business acumen amidst the global watch boom.
However, the 2011 collection, unveiled under the direction of Stefano Macaluso, who succeeded his father as president, may not feature flashy gimmicks, but it is filled with captivating new models befitting this prestigious maison, one of Switzerland's most illustrious historical names, and truly follows the royal road of watchmaking.
This year marks exactly 220 years since the founder, watchmaker Jean-François Bautte, created a watch bearing his own name. What truly excites watch enthusiasts are the models announced to commemorate this occasion:Tourbillonmodels and small seconds models.
In addition, from the regular collections beyond the 220th anniversary special editions, new releases from the popular "Vintage 1945" collection, the definitive classic for Girard-Perregaux's rectangular watches, conceived by the late Luigi Macaluso, are not to be missed.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Tourbillon with Gold Bridges
A masterpiece where the legendary Tourbillon Bridges merge with a simple design.
The masterpiece that represents Girard-Perregaux's 220-year history is, first and foremost, the "Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges" pocket watch developed by watchmaker Constant Girard in the mid-19th century and awarded a gold medal at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle. With its structure placing the barrel, center wheel, and tourbillon escapement on three parallel vertical bridges, the Gold Bridges have become an icon symbolizing the company's advanced watchmaking technology since this award.
The model unveiled this year is a tourbillon model using the special "Baguette" design Gold Bridges, identical to this masterpiece. The total weight of the tourbillon escapement, assembled by hand from 72 parts with a diameter of only 10mm, is an astonishingly light 0.3 grams. Furthermore, the Breguet numerals on the silver dial and the blued steel leaf hands, crafted by heating steel parts by hand, are also reproductions of the representative styles of pocket watches from the same era. The case back is also adorned with hand-engraved inscriptions, just like the masterpiece pocket watch. It is a gem that encapsulates the company's history and technology.BreguetIt is a gem that encapsulates the company's history and technology.
Automatic, 40mm diameter pink gold case, alligator strap, limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 15.3 million yen. Availability TBD.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds
Reproducing the charm of good old pocket watches, including the beautiful enamel dial!
Enamel, a vitreous glaze fired at high temperatures onto metal plates such as iron or copper, is an excellent material with a beautiful luster unique to vitreous materials and superb durability against acids and alkalis. Fine enamel used in crafts, known as "cloisonné" or "enamel," was widely used for watch dials during the pocket watch era. However, as time moved on to the age of wristwatches, and mass production became the norm, enamel dials disappeared. This is because the significant expansion and contraction of metal and vitreous materials during the firing process made it essential for skilled artisans to apply fine numerals and indices, requiring advanced craftsmanship. Furthermore, due to the high defect rate and cost during manufacturing, they were replaced by easier-to-produce and lower-cost printed or applied dials.
This classic and simple small seconds model, made as a limited edition to commemorate the brand's 220th anniversary, features an enamel dial, specifically one made using the classical "Grand Feu" technique from Switzerland. While it is a wristwatch, it allows one to appreciate the beauty of pocket watch dials from a bygone era. Moreover, the case features a see-through back, offering the pleasure of admiring the latest in-house automatic movement, the "GP03300-50," from the back. This is a special timepiece unique to the prestigious Girard-Perregaux, blending excellent elements of both old and new.
Automatic, 40mm diameter pink gold case, alligator strap. Limited to 220 pieces worldwide. 2.184 million yen. Scheduled for July release. White gold version (2.331 million yen) also available.
Vintage 1945 XXL
The taste of classic rectangular watches from a bygone era in a modern, large size.
The "Vintage 1945," a classic rectangular watch introduced in 1995 based on the Art Deco style designs from 1945, offers the elegant taste of the golden age of Swiss mechanical watches from the 1940s and 50s, with its small seconds and beautifully three-dimensional curved case. It was, and still is, Girard-Perregaux's most popular model, considered an "antique watch you can buy new." The basic model was renewed in 2009, with further improvements to the dial and other elements. In 2010, models with even more elegantly curved crystals and dials, and integrated case-side crowns, closer to the original design, became available. The "Vintage 1945" collection offers various size and function variations, in addition to the most basic 28.2 x 28.6mm size.
The "Vintage 1945 XXL" unveiled this year is the simplest small seconds model in the largest XXL size within the collection. The case and dial, which were previously linear, have now adopted an elegant curved design, similar to the popular basic size models. The crown has also been changed to a type integrated with the case side, similar to the 2010 original model. The case is now a see-through back specification, allowing one to visually appreciate the in-house GP3300 movement. It has been reborn as a wristwatch with a refined character, despite its large size. We highly recommend this to those who previously hesitated to wear the "Vintage 1945" because they felt it was too small for their wrists.
Automatic, 36.2 x 35.25mm pink gold case, alligator strap. 2.352 million yen. Scheduled for October release. Stainless steel case model (945,000 yen) also available.



