Malcolm Betts Jewelry: Cherished by Three Generations

Barneys New York has hosted the annual October trunk show for the British jewelry brand Malcolm Betts for 19 years. "We are delighted that some customers have been wearing our pieces for three generations – mothers, daughters, and their children," says Malcolm Betts. The brand is handled exclusively by Barneys New York in Japan.

Malcolm Betts jewelry is characterized by its meticulous and precise hammering technique, a traditional method of shaping metal with a hammer, with all processes completed by hand. The warmth and unique character inherent in handmade pieces have garnered a large number of repeat customers.

Ahead of the trunk shows in Kobe and Fukuoka, we spoke with Malcolm Betts at Barneys New York Shinjuku.

—What is your design philosophy, Malcolm?


We have a small atelier in Notting Hill, London. Firstly, I want people to notice our commitment to combining different materials within a single piece. For example, in our wedding rings, we combine hard platinum on the outside with soft 22K gold on the inside, using the materials to envelop the gold. This is crafted with the image of marriage, where the man protects the woman.

In terms of design, we aim for simple designs that incorporate classic elements within a contemporary framework, avoiding excessive ornamentation. Also, we are particular about selecting stones with unique shapes and colors, such as diamonds.

The Charm of Handmade Pieces, Each with a Unique Character

—What is your design process, Malcolm?

I start with sketches, and the image is almost complete at the sketching stage. The design is fundamentally based on techniques like hammering, which has been passed down through generations. When creating a piece, I'm often inspired by art, decorative objects, and architecture.

—What are the characteristics of the men's collection being unveiled this time?

Based on materials like yellow gold, white gold, and silver, we've focused on an elegant aesthetic suitable for mature men, incorporating elements like a single diamond.

To keep prices accessible, we've used silver as the base and added motifs like leaves, representing autumn, in white gold or yellow gold. You should also see bangles that feature hammered textures resembling leaf veins, twisted to evoke an ancient Roman feel.

Unlike the rounded designs of the women's collection, the men's collection features bolder, heavier pieces with angular designs, offering a different kind of enjoyment.

—What changes have you noticed since you first held a trunk show 19 years ago?

It's difficult to compare, but our brand's launch coincided almost exactly with our debut at Barneys New York, and they've carried our pieces in the US since around that time. Some customers who bought rings 18 years ago still wear them when they visit, and it makes us very happy to hear them talk about enjoying the patina and luster that develops over time.

Our Japanese customers appreciate the details and the quiet craftsmanship of hammering. This inspires me to study Japanese culture and appreciate its aesthetics. Because they have a deep understanding of craftsmanship, I feel our pieces resonate with the sensitivity inherent in the Japanese DNA. We will continue to create simple, beautiful, and timeless pieces that are loved for a long time.