The Master Craftsmanship Behind MIKIMOTO Quality

This is not limited to luxurious, one-of-a-kindHaute Joailleriebut can also be found in bridal and everyday jewelry. The globally recognized MIKIMOTO quality is underpinned by a "craftsman's spirit" that allows no compromise, regardless of the product range. OPENERS gained an inside look at MIKIMOTO's creation process, documenting the journey from a hand-drawn design to the finished piece.



The piece we focused on is a pendant from the "A World of Creativity" collection, designed by Japanese designer Masumi Anzai. This collection is truly unique within MIKIMOTO; each season, centered around the theme of "a planet teeming with life-giving water – Earth," designs are selected through a competition among designers based at MIKIMOTO locations worldwide. This background explains the collection's distinctive, free-spirited, and inspiring designs.

The theme of this captivating design, where the brilliance of diamonds flows in graceful curves and a large pearl sways invitingly, is "Flame." Ms. Anzai explained that she envisioned the gentle, flickering flame of a candle rather than a raging inferno. She aimed to express the mystery and vitality of nature through the golden pearl and diamonds. A key feature is its structure, allowing it to sway smoothly with every movement.



Simply looking at the finished piece, one might focus solely on its design. However, this delicate piece of jewelry was constructed with meticulous precision, evident in its smoothly swaying structure, the way the metal gracefully curves and connects, and the precise angles at which the diamonds are set to always face forward.

The design blueprints are created using a CAD system, implemented 12 years ago. While MIKIMOTO also employs traditional techniques like "Ippin Saiku," where every part is finished by hand from a metal sheet, the company strategically uses different methods depending on the product's characteristics. CAD is particularly suited for jewelry with complex structures and for pieces requiring extreme precision, such as earrings designed for perfect symmetry.

Presenting a Challenge is What Truly Fulfills a Craftsman

The creation process begins with detailed discussions between the designer and the artisans responsible for each stage, facilitated by the design sketch. For the designer, this is often the "first hurdle." Ms. Anzai herself recalls struggling initially with the rigorous scrutiny of the seasoned craftspeople.



"It was finished in five minutes (laughs). Actually, in the original design, the twisted part was straighter, and the spacing between the components was tighter. But they immediately determined that shape was impossible to create in reality (laughs)! So, I redrew it while simulating the movement with a model."

While delicate jewelry designs are currently trending, pursuing design alone can compromise durability. MIKIMOTO's craftsmanship, of course, does not permit this. This leads to intense discussions between designers and artisans. Masayuki Kojibayashi states that presenting a craftsman with an seemingly impossible challenge is precisely what makes the work fulfilling.




Based on the blueprints, which are finalized only after gaining the approval of both the designer and all involved artisans, the jewelry parts are created. This particular piece was made using "lost-wax casting," a method where molten metal is poured into a mold (made of plaster) to form the shape. The resulting metal pieces undergo various production stages, culminating in "Ishi-dome," the meticulous setting of the diamonds. This is an incredibly precise task.

The "Suridashi-tsume" Stone Setting Technique: A Test of a Craftsman's Skill

The metal is secured on a "yani-dai" (a base made of pine resin), and under a microscope, the artisan carefully shapes a small hole, pre-made in the metal, to match the diamond's size, meticulously embedding each stone. It's a task that makes one's hands tremble just watching. Peering through the microscope reveals a micro-world demanding absolute precision, filled with an almost palpable tension. Craftsman Hinotsugu Kurosawa explains that stone setting requires delicate micro-adjustments with exquisite control of force.





"I repeatedly make fine adjustments while considering the overall piece, ensuring the cut orientation and top surface height of the stones are aligned, and that the prongs are finished precisely along the metal's outline without overextending. The twisted sections are the most challenging in this case. After setting the stones, I finish by smoothing the corners of the prongs and lightly polishing the metal between the stones to enhance their luster. It's so intricate you might not notice it (laughs). But that extra touch makes a significant difference in the overall brilliance."

Creation Continues to Expand Alongside Tradition

Finally, the completed parts are assembled to form a single piece of jewelry. This stage is crucial for ensuring the smooth, fluid movement of the piece. For this pendant, "soldering," where parts are joined by melting and fusing metal of the same type, was used. This method not only results in a more aesthetically pleasing finish but also enhances durability.



Soldering involves working close to the melting point of metals – 960°C for sterling silver, 1070°C for gold, and 1800°C for platinum – making it a hazardous process. It also requires delicate heat control to avoid melting the surrounding metal. Amidst the tension, the process involves carefully checking the overall balance, the fluidity of movement, and whether the piece rests correctly facing forward when stationary.

Once the jewelry takes its final form, it is polished vigorously with a high-speed polishing machine. This requires intense concentration, as a momentary lapse could lead to injury. Finally, using a loupe in addition to the naked eye, every detail is meticulously inspected for scratches or areas missed during polishing. MIKIMOTO's stringent quality standards demand a flawless, smooth, and beautiful finish from every angle.



This polishing technique relies heavily on tactile sensation and cannot be taught through words; it requires dedicated practice. Consequently, the difference in the finish between experienced artisans and younger ones is striking. The unique skills honed over time are a cornerstone of MIKIMOTO's jewelry quality.



The creation of a single piece of jewelry involves a multitude of people, and their rigorous approach to each other's work was truly impressive. In this era of mass production, MIKIMOTO places the utmost value on the warmth and passion of human touch. It felt like a genuine encounter with the true value of MIKIMOTO quality, which transcends mere design or material excellence. What was also surprising was the presence of many young artisans, alongside the young designer, Ms. Anzai. Many of those we spoke with were in their thirties, and some were as young as 26. With careers ranging from 8 to 15 years, they have mastered all the necessary processes and are considered "fully-fledged" artisans. The legacy of skilled craftsmanship is being passed down effectively to the next generation.



To meet the fresh sensibilities of young designers like Ms. Anzai, artisans continuously explore new techniques. Thus, MIKIMOTO's creations do not remain static but evolve over time. This year, the brand celebrates 120 years since the invention of cultured pearls, a history built on successive steps of "innovation" that continue to shape its future.

MIKIMOTO Customer Service Center
Tel. 03-5550-5678
http://www.mikimoto.com/jp/