Watch & Jewelry
June 27, 2016
Feature | The Enduring Appeal of Patek Philippe | PATEK PHILIPPE
PATEK PHILIPPE
The Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370P
Feature: Why Patek Philippe Endures
What is the allure of PATEK PHILIPPE? It lies in its practicality, its exquisitely refined craftsmanship, and its meticulously designed, unforced elegance. We explore this appeal, focusing on the "Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370P."
Text by OPENERS
A Chronograph Symbolizing High Reliability and Precision
While a luxury watch brand that immediately comes to mind, Patek Philippe timepieces also possess unparalleled practicality. From simple collections like the "Calatrava" to grand complications such as the "Perpetual Calendar"—a world-first developed by the company—and the sporty elegance of the "Nautilus" and "Aquanaut," the consistent craftsmanship resonates with collectors, earning their immense trust.
Patek Philippe watches combine exquisite, meticulous craftsmanship with practicality. Perhaps it's better to say that their unforced, detailed design allows for such beautiful finishing. This craftsmanship is evident in the "Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370P" (hereafter referred to as "5370P"), unveiled at Baselworld in 2015.
The split-seconds chronograph featured in this model is a complication with two chronograph seconds hands that operate simultaneously. With a button press, one of the hands (the split-seconds hand) can be stopped and started independently to measure lap times. This mechanism places a significant load on the movement, but Patek Philippe has excelled in its execution, making it one of their signature complications.
In the "5370P," the start/stop button is located at 2 o'clock. Pressing the split button, coaxial with the crown, stops only the split-seconds hand. Pressing the split button again causes it to catch up to the leading chronograph seconds hand, disappearing behind it. This action is executed with flawless precision, a symphony of controlled motion.
The manual-winding movement, Caliber CHR 29-535 PS, used in this model boasts improved gear transmission efficiency and reduced friction compared to previous movements. Patek Philippe has been incorporating split-seconds complications since their first chronograph wristwatch in the 1920s. This tradition, continuously evolved with a focus on detail, is the very essence of the brand's high reliability and precision.
A Sparkling Black Dial
Upon picking up this watch, one is undoubtedly captivated by the column wheel movement visible through the case back. However, the black dial possesses an even more compelling beauty. The black dial is crafted using a technique called true black enamel. Black enamel is applied to a white gold disc and fired at a high temperature of 850 degrees Celsius. It is then cooled and meticulously polished by hand to achieve a uniform surface.
Patek Philippe has also excelled in creating one-off models featuring enamel and engraving, which they call "rare handcrafts," particularly for their pocket watches. While the brand is often celebrated for its mechanics, it has also cultivated unparalleled technology and craftsmanship in enamel decoration.
In recent years, enamel decoration on watch dials has become more common among other manufacturers, with luxury brands frequently releasing new models. However, these dials often show imperfections such as tiny air bubbles or the polishing marks left to remove them. Particularly with black enamel, distortions in the luster can detract from the aesthetic, diminishing the respect collectors have for the artisans. For the face of a true luxury watch, these are rarely commendable achievements.
Split-Seconds Chronograph
Ref. 5370P
Case: Platinum 950
Dial: White gold, true black enamel, Breguet numerals in applied white gold
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 13.56mm
Movement: Manual winding (Cal. CHR 29-535 PS)
Power Reserve: Max. 65 hours (min. 55 hours)
Functions: Split-seconds chronograph (chronograph seconds, split seconds, 30-minute counter, tachymeter scale based on 1000m)
Strap: Alligator (with platinum 950 buckle)
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Price: ¥28,010,000 (excluding tax)
However, the dial of the 5370P redefines the perception of enamel decoration on watches. Its lustrous finish, complemented by applied white gold, offers a captivating transparency akin to glass or onyx. The ability to offer such a dial as a regular production model, rather than a special commission, is a testament to Patek Philippe's unique capabilities. This is where the brand earns the respect of its aficionados.
This dedication to horological mastery is not confined to the chronograph alone. Patek Philippe offers a diverse range of models showcasing various exquisite techniques. If you find yourself visiting a watch boutique this season in search of a new timepiece, we encourage you to experience these watches that embody functional beauty.
Annual Calendar Chronograph
Ref. 5905P
Case: Platinum 950
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 14.03mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. CH 28-520 QA 24H)
Functions: Annual calendar (date at 12 o'clock, month at 2 o'clock, day at 10 o'clock), flyback chronograph, day/night indicator (small window within the 6 o'clock sub-dial)
Strap: Alligator (with platinum 950 buckle)
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Price: ¥8,790,000 (excluding tax)
Annual Calendar
Ref. 5396R
Case: Rose gold
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Thickness: 11.2mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303)
Functions: Annual calendar (day and month at 12 o'clock, date at 6 o'clock), moon phase, 24-hour display
Strap: Alligator (with rose gold buckle)
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Price: ¥5,390,000 (excluding tax)
Nautilus Annual Calendar
Ref. 5726A
Case: Stainless steel
Diameter: 40.5mm (10 to 4 o'clock)
Thickness: 11.3mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303)
Functions: Annual calendar (day and month at 12 o'clock, date at 6 o'clock), moon phase, 24-hour display
Strap: Alligator (with Nautilus folding clasp)
Water Resistance: 12 bar
Price: ¥4,440,000 (excluding tax)








