One-way fares from ¥4,490* and up. Fly with Jetstar to "The Culinary Capital" of Shonai | Jetstar
LOUNGE / TRAVEL
October 9, 2019

One-way fares from ¥4,490* and up. Fly with Jetstar to "The Culinary Capital" of Shonai | Jetstar

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Shonai: A Treasure Trove of Seafood, Mountain Produce, and Farm-Fresh Ingredients. The Reason Top Chefs Flock to This Region Revealed (1)

When you think of delicious food destinations in Japan, what comes to mind? Hokkaido's seafood? Matsusaka beef from Mie? Or perhaps Kyoto's Kyo-yasai vegetables? While all are excellent choices, I actually knew the answer all along. My father was born in Sakata and raised in Tsuruoka, after all. The Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture boasts ingredients that are exceptionally delicious.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Where Culinary Culture, Brought by Kitamaebune Ships, Flourishes into a Miraculous Land for Gastronomy

It's truly a "miracle." To have so many delicious things overflowing everywhere in one place. Normally, you might discover a few truly delightful culinary gems here and there. But in Shonai, everything you encounter is a gastronomic delight. It's possible to spend an entire day eating your fill of "gourmet" food alone.
For those who think, "It would be amazing to eat delicious food for all three meals!" Shonai makes it effortlessly possible. French, Italian, sushi, Japanese cuisine... and these aren't just premium options. Even the ramen, tonkatsu, juices, and sweets here would instantly draw long queues if they were in Tokyo.
As you know, Shonai is a renowned rice-producing region, but it also cultivates a variety of vegetables. Furthermore, "there are several farmers with high aspirations. They're willing to challenge themselves with difficult-to-grow Western vegetables, which is rewarding," says Chef Komon of Bedda Sicilia. The Sea of Japan is right before us. Meats are sourced from dedicated farms. It's a comprehensive coverage of ingredients.
Moreover, the culinary culture here is of a high caliber! Sakata Port was a stop for the Kitamaebune ships. This port town, which prospered from herring trade during the Edo period, saw the influx of high culture originating from Kyoto, which was then absorbed and developed by the castle town of Tsuruoka. This region possesses both abundant ingredients and the wisdom to prepare them deliciously.
So, let me reveal the answer upfront. Everything served in this region is "Made for you." All freshly prepared. They prepare only what will be served that day, delivering it to customers in the best possible condition. This is what they diligently adhere to. While in cities, preparations are often done in advance, here, everything is faithfully finished each day. That's why the freshness is exceptionally outstanding. Is it because the customer base isn't as large as in the cities? No, in the Reiwa era, we should consider it a miracle that this sincere approach to food preparation continues to be upheld. You'll understand once you taste it. It's overwhelmingly impressive!
Why has this wonderful gastronomic region not received more attention until now? It's simply because it was virtually an isolated landmass. The reason my father rarely returned to his hometown was precisely that it was inconveniently far! While expressways have recently been connected, the distance is still too great for a solo driver to reach from the city center.
By train, you can reach Niigata by Shinkansen, but from there, transferring to an express train takes a surprisingly long time. The Yamagata Shinkansen only goes as far as Yamagata City on the mountain side, making it inconvenient to reach Shonai. And what about air travel? ANA used to connect Shonai Airport with Haneda, but the ticket prices... While perhaps justifiable for business travel, it wasn't easy to use for casual trips.
Jetstar is No. 1 in the domestic LCC market share. *Source: Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism "Information on Specific Domestic Air Carriers" (July 2017 - June 2018).
Now, with the long-awaited launch of LCC flights, thank you, Jetstar!! Short trips from the city have become easily accessible. Ah, this is sure to spark a trend of "Shonai Gourmet Travel." It's still uncrowded because foreigners haven't discovered it yet, but that's likely only a matter of time. I can confidently recommend it: Shonai is the place to visit right now.
Now, we will move on to information about Jetstar's Shonai flights and recommendations for places to visit on your Shonai gourmet journey.
The flight time is about an hour, and it's a short drive from the airport to each restaurant. Renting a car is recommended, but if you're not confident driving, taxis are also an option. Focus on a few destinations and indulge in the food!
By the way, here is the flight schedule from Saturday, October 27, 2019, to Saturday, March 28, 2020.
Tokyo (Narita) - Shonai
Flight Number GK777
Departure 13:35
Arrival 14:45

Shonai - Tokyo (Narita)
Flight Number GK776
Departure 15:25
Arrival 16:35

One-way fare Shonai = Tokyo (Narita) route from ¥4,490 (tax included)
*Economy "Starter" one-way fare. Payment fees, airport usage fees, etc., are charged separately. Checked baggage fees are not included.
This timetable is also quite convenient. Both departures and arrivals are in the afternoon, so there's no need to rush to the airport in the early morning or late at night, and you can calmly enjoy dinner after arriving. Therefore, a relaxed schedule of one or two nights on the weekend is perfectly fine.
The first domestic LCC with a mobile-manageable boarding pass. If you have no checked baggage, you don't need to go through check-in procedures at the counter, so you can proceed directly to the boarding gate.
Ticket purchases can be made through the official Jetstar website. The Price Watch feature, which notifies you by email when your desired fare becomes available for specific dates and periods,http://www.jetstar.com/jp/ja/about-us/welcome/pricewatchis convenient. Since the fares on the official website are the most reasonable, purchasing through the official website is highly recommended. And if you download your mobile boarding pass from the official app, you can breeze through the boarding process.
*Conditions apply.

Shonai: A Treasure Trove of Seafood, Mountain Produce, and Farm-Fresh Ingredients. The Reason Top Chefs Flock to This Region Revealed (2)

Now, let's move on to our recommended spots.

First, we introduce "Ravi Wine Bar & Dining," a renowned establishment that forms the core of the Shonai gourmet journey. Located directly opposite the Sankyo Soko warehouses, Sakata City's premier tourist attraction, this French restaurant serves exquisite cuisine. It offers simple, classic French dishes that directly bring out the flavors of Shonai's ingredients. While fusion French with a twist is becoming mainstream in Tokyo, such twists are unnecessary in Shonai. When the ingredients are this good, simplicity is best.

Of course, even with simplicity, Chef Sato of Ravi spares no effort, and his work is meticulous. For example, the corn potage. Fresh corn, which can be eaten raw, is half grilled and half used raw. Milk and cream are added to make the soup, and the aroma of the grilled corn further enhances the flavor. This extra step is what makes it so wonderful. The sharp precision of his work, like that of a stagehand, shines through in every dish.
Left: Shonai's bounty, a whole, exceptionally sweet and tart tomato (course menu). Right: Flounder carpaccio caught in the waters of Shonai, served as a salad with radishes (course menu).
Grilled and raw corn cold soup. Also featuring a rich flavor from Shonai's fields (course menu).
Left: Grilled fat greenling. The four horizontal lines are tapenade sauce made with black olives. The fragrant fat greenling is coated with the rich sauce. Right: Roast beef of Yamagata beef with ginger sauce. Cooked thoroughly at low temperature, the umami is condensed and juicy. The sweet and sour sauce adds depth to the meat's flavor.
For drinks, consult with sommelier Miura. The wine list offers a range of price points. Ravi also offers à la carte orders in addition to course menus, so it's perfect for those who want to enjoy drinks. The interior lighting is dimmed to create a relaxed atmosphere, allowing you to enjoy your meal without formality.
Ravi Wine Bar & Dining
Tel.|0234-23-5228
URL|http://www.ravi-sakata.com
Address|Kawabe no Yakata 2F, 1-6-6 Honcho, Sakata City, Yamagata
Lunch Hours|11:30 AM - 2:00 PM (Last Order) *Saturdays and Sundays only
Dinner Hours|6:00 PM - 11:00 PM
Closed|Wednesdays
How about fresh juice directly from a fruit shop? All products are made to order, squeezed and prepared fresh upon request. Their vibrant colors and rich, natural sweetness and umami are a testament to this. They are reputed to be healthy, packed with the natural enzymes of fruits and vegetables. In addition to year-round favorites like kiwi and orange juice, they offer seasonal specials made with fresh fruits. In autumn, local pear and tart grape juices are recommended.
In addition to juices, their smoothies are also highly praised. The "Pumpkin Smoothie," made with pumpkin, vanilla ice cream, and maple syrup, has a taste that's just right, somewhere between pudding and ice cream.
The product samples above are Grape Smoothie for ¥530 (tax excluded) and Pumpkin Smoothie for ¥500 (tax excluded). Additionally, for the coming season, pear juice is in season. For takeout, they provide plastic containers.
Fruit Deli Nishimura
Tel.|0234-24-0470
Address|3-4-15 Nakacho, Sakata City, Yamagata
Hours|10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Closed|Wednesdays (Open on national holidays)
Another recommended spot for famous sweets in Sakata City is "Cafe e Gelato Moare," popular for its homemade gelato. Their healthy recipe uses minimal stabilizers to allow the natural sweetness of the ingredients to shine through. This gentle, homemade deliciousness is their secret. They produce small batches daily in-store to maintain a consistently fresh taste. They offer 17 flavors, including 6 classic options like milk, matcha, chocolate, sesame, strawberry, and Malaga, along with seasonal flavors. For the upcoming season, the gelato made with Yamagata rice "Tsuyahime" featuring a chewy texture, and La France gelato are recommended.
Pistachio, sesame, and Malaga (Italian liquor) triple scoop for ¥420. A simple flavor with moderate sweetness. It melts easily due to the reduced stabilizers, so be careful. There is an eat-in space inside where you can enjoy your gelato on the spot.
Cafe e Gelato Moare
Tel.|0234-22-5280
Address|1-7-18 Nakacho, Sakata City, Yamagata
Hours|10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
Closed|Open daily
Kariya pears are a famous brand in the local area. Thanks to the mineral-rich soil from Mt. Chokai, which boasts one of Japan's largest beech forests, exceptional pears are grown here every autumn. The Kariya region, just a 20-minute drive from Sakata City's downtown, has over 40 pear farms where you can purchase directly from the farm or enjoy pear picking.

"Pears are best right after picking!" says orchard owner Ken Komatsu. He advises waiting until they are fully ripe on the tree and consuming them as soon as possible after picking. Supermarket pears are often picked early due to distribution logistics, which is why their sweetness can be diluted. You can enjoy them from late August to late October each year. All-you-can-eat pear picking, where you eat freshly picked pears, is also recommended (¥600 per person, reservations accepted). You can also buy pears to take home, but it's a smart move to have them delivered to your home at a specified date and time, timed for when they are perfectly ripe.
Komatsu Kyusuke Pear Orchard
Tel.|0234-28-2164
Address|4 Komatsunoya, Kariya, Sakata City, Yamagata
Email|pear@cameo.plala.or.jp
In Sakata, where the Kitamaebune ships once docked, a corner of Nakamachi retains the atmosphere of a port town. Wakaba Ryokan is located nearby and is a perfect base for enjoying the flavors of Sakata. While all 36 rooms maintain the ambiance of a traditional Tohoku ryokan, the plumbing has been renovated with the latest facilities, ensuring a clean environment. The garden, selected as one of the "Top 100 Gardens of Shonai," is prepared with traditional snow-hanging in winter (a traditional style where ropes support the branches from the top of the tree to prevent them from breaking under the weight of snow).

The large communal bath with its herbal bath, overlooking the cozy garden, is also popular. Inside the inn, 700 Kokeshi dolls collected from various parts of Tohoku create a Tohoku atmosphere.

The lunch menu at the main dining hall "Shingetsu" (choose two out of four main dishes, combining meat and fish, for ¥800!) draws such long queues of locals that it's a testament to its popularity. The chef trained at Tai-Mei-Ken in Nihonbashi, Tokyo, and offers a wide range of Japanese and Western dishes. It's no wonder it's praised as the "kitchen of Sakata citizens." Dinner service at "Shingetsu" has its last order at 10:30 PM.
Garden view special room overlooking the "Top 100 Gardens of Shonai" with bath/toilet. ¥10,000 per night (including tax and service charge, breakfast included) *Mention OPENERS when booking to receive a ¥9,500 discount per night.
Wakaba Ryokan
Tel.|0234-24-8111
URL|http://wakabaryokan.jp
Address|2-3-9 Honcho, Sakata City, Yamagata
Next, we introduce a sake brewery that produces "Hatsumago," a famous brand from Shonai. Here, you can visit the "Kura Tofukan" (Brewery Exploration Hall), a museum dedicated to sake, free of charge. In the "Kikizake Corner" (Sake Tasting Corner), you can sample various brands, including "Hatsumago Daiginjo," and purchase your favorites on the spot. You can also try limited seasonal labels and other rare items, so be sure to compare them and discover the variations in flavor due to different brewing methods.
Kura Tofukan, Tohoku Meijo
Tel.|0234-31-1515
URL|http://www.hatsumago.co.jp/kuratanbo/
Address|125-3 Murahigashiyama, Jūrizuka, Sakata City, Yamagata
Hours|10:00 AM - 4:30 PM
Closed|Mondays *Closed from December 1, 2019 (Sunday) to January 20, 2020 (Monday)
Admission Fee|Free
*Conditions apply.

Shonai: A Treasure Trove of Seafood, Mountain Produce, and Farm-Fresh Ingredients. The Reason Top Chefs Flock to This Region Revealed (3)

Although it's a bit outside the center of Tsuruoka City, "Bedda Sicilia" is a must-visit for an authentic Italian experience. Chef Komon, who honed his skills in Tokyo, fell in love with Shonai's ingredients and opened this Sicilian restaurant. "BELLA," the Italian word for "beautiful," becomes "Bedda" with a Sicilian accent. The restaurant's name means "beautiful Sicily."

The lunch menu is uncompromisingly focused on Shonai ingredients. Furthermore, many of them are sourced directly from local farmers. The speed at which they provide freshly harvested ingredients on the same day is a key selling point; these are the kinds of products that would be considered premium vegetables and sold in department store basements in Tokyo.

I was astonished by the "Dadacha-mame Frittata." Frittata is a dish similar to quiche without the pastry crust. It's characterized by its light texture, but the rich flavor of the Dadacha beans spreads rapidly in the mouth along with the light texture. The power of "freshly harvested Dadacha" is truly immeasurable. You can feel Chef Komon's skill in elevating the ingredients' unique characteristics to a higher level.
Appetizers from the lunch menu (buffet style). The square, yellowish item in the foreground is "Dadacha-mame Frittata."
Left: Buffet of 8 appetizers served during our visit. Dishes like Manganji chili pepper and sansho oil marinated vegetables, tomato (ox heart) baked with basil breadcrumbs, and eggplant baked with Pecorino cheese – each could stand alone. Right: Pasta with clams and Sicilian Rouge in oil sauce (lunch menu).
Grilled Japanese sea bass with fresh oregano (lunch menu). This main dish, along with the appetizer buffet, pasta, and dessert, plus a drink, was ¥2,700 for lunch. There are also lunch courses with just the main dish (¥2,200) or just the pasta (¥1,700).
Dinner is by omakase course only, starting from ¥4,000. Unlike lunch, the dinner courses utilize Shonai's geographical advantage by sourcing seafood from Ishinomaki, not limiting themselves to Shonai produce. To fully experience Chef Komon's culinary prowess, make a reservation for dinner and savor the experience at a leisurely pace!
Bedda Sicilia
Tel.|090-1808-3420
URL|http://magnolia-7b.tv/newsblog_bedda-sicilia/
Address|164 Mitsubashimaeda, Haguro-machi, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata
Lunch Hours|11:30 AM - 2:30 PM (14:00 Last Order)
Dinner Hours|6:00 PM onwards (Reservations required)
Closed|Wednesdays
In contrast to Sakata's famous local ramen, Tsuruoka offers a diverse ramen scene. Among them, "We aim for ramen that can be eaten every day!" says representative Ken Honma, leading to the creation of Unnoito's light Chinese soba. The sweetness and umami of the dried sardine base blend perfectly with the wavy noodles. You can choose between thin or thick noodles, but the chewy, springy thin noodles are recommended. They don't skimp on the extra step of hand-kneading the noodles on the spot. Please try this flavor, which ranked first in the new restaurant category of the latest Ramen Walker Grand Prix Yamagata.
Niboshi Chuka Medium (220g) Thin noodles, light flavor ¥800. You can choose noodle quantity, thickness, and soup richness (light/rich). Various toppings like seasoned egg and nori are also available.
Unnoito Tsuruoka Branch No. 2
Tel.|0235-26-0226
URL|https://www.mokkedanofoods.com
Address|7-48 Showa-cho, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata
Hours|4:00 PM - 12:00 AM, 3:00 PM - 11:00 PM (Sundays and holidays)
Closed|Open daily
The first generation was from Aomori, hence "Aomoriya." When they started offering seasonal fruits in tarts, it was a huge hit. Leveraging the speedy procurement possible at a fruit shop, they maximize the flavor of fresh fruits. Since the fruits are the stars of these tarts, the sweetness of the cream is kept to a minimum. Their delicate work, preparing several types of pie crusts and creams to match the fruits, has earned them popularity among the citizens of Tsuruoka, a city renowned for its gastronomy.

Fresh fruits are cut in-store, so their shelf life is limited to the same day. However, you can enjoy them on the spot in the eat-in corner, so rest assured.
Autumn Mix ¥490 (tax excluded). This tart features 10 types of fruits, including Japanese pears, Western pears, plums, and grapes, on a pie crust with custard cream.
Shine Muscat ¥490 (tax excluded). This tart features seedless "Shine Muscat" grapes from Yamanashi, which can be eaten with the skin on, placed on a white chocolate cream on a pie crust.
Fruit Shop Aomoriya
Tel.|0235-22-0341
URL|http://www.aomoriya0235220341.co.jp
Address|7-24 Suehiro-cho, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata
Hours|10:30 AM - 7:00 PM
Closed|Open daily
The store "Kurayashiki LUNA" has been remodeled from a sake brewery that has been used since the Edo period into a kaiseki restaurant. The course menus, produced by the same management that orchestrates stylish weddings in Tsuruoka (including aquarium ceremonies at the Kamo Aquarium!), are not only delicious but also visually stunning. Is it just me who feels a Kyoto-esque sensibility here? The exchange brought by the Kitamaebune ships must have brought prosperity to this land, fostering a culture that cherishes food.

Tsuruoka City is designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, and a visit here makes it clear why. The Shonai kaiseki, enjoyed while reflecting on history, is exceptional. Lunch sets are also reasonably priced. The images below show a meal with rice, soup, pickles, and dessert for ¥2,000 (tax excluded).
Kurayashiki LUNA
Tel.|0235-22-1223
URL|https://www.web-luna.com
Address|12-23 Showa-cho, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata
Lunch Hours|11:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Dinner Hours|5:30 PM - 9:00 PM
Course Prices|From ¥2,000 (tax excluded) (Lunch) / From ¥5,000 (tax excluded) (Dinner)
Closed|Mondays
The new accommodation facility "SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE," which opened in 2018, is the talk of the town. As the name suggests, the contemporary architecture that suddenly appears amidst the rice paddies is magnificent. The design is by Shigeru Ban, a recipient of the Pritzker Prize, often referred to as the Nobel Prize of architecture.

Remarkably, a large part of this building is made of wood, exuding a wonderful sense of warmth! The shared facilities, including a hot spring, fitness center, and library, are also well-equipped, ensuring that your stay is never dull. It's truly "COOL JAPAN" in Shonai. The main dining hall features a chef who honed their skills in Tokyo hotels and has returned to their hometown. Here, you can fully enjoy local ingredients, local sake, and prefectural wines. It's about a 20-minute drive from Shonai Airport, with good access to the city centers of Sakata and Tsuruoka.
SHONAI HOTEL SUIDEN TERRASSE
Tel.|0235-25-7424
URL|https://suiden-terrasse.yamagata-design.com
Address|23-1 Shimo-tori-no-su, Keta, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata
Hollywood Twin with Garden View from ¥10,850 (per person/per room for 2 people)
So, we've introduced recommended gourmet spots and accommodations. Have you noticed that some famous restaurants are missing? If so, you're a true connoisseur! That's correct. We've omitted highly-rated sushi restaurants in Sakata and Italian restaurants in Tsuruoka that can be easily found on "Tabelog" and in guidebooks. We hope you'll experience the depth of Shonai's gastronomy beyond just the famous establishments.

So, let your next travel destination be Shonai. See you in Sakata and Tsuruoka!
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