It is an island where nature and the sea are cherished, and that is its true value.
LOUNGE /
TRAVEL
December 26, 2023
Savoring Food and Hot Springs on the Rich Island of Iki | TRAVEL
TRAVEL | Iki Island
In addition to Michelin's "5 Pavilions Inn," 5 out of approximately 100 eateries have been featured in Michelin!
An island rich in both fishing and agriculture. That is Iki Island. Surrounded by the sea, it offers not only fresh seafood but also thriving agriculture, with rice production being among the top-class self-sufficiency rates and yields for an outlying island. Perhaps it's because of this that Iki Island boasts many high-caliber restaurants. While there are no more than about 100 establishments on the island that do not serve meals, such as bars and snack bars, a total of six of them are listed in the "Michelin Guide" and "Michelin Guide Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Saga 2019." We would like to introduce you to the gourmet delights of Iki Island, and as a bonus, visit a unique Iki Island immigrant!
Text by KITAHARA Toru
Immigrants Also Live Here, Experiencing Ease of Living
As an overview of Iki Island, we have conveyed how this compact island is abundant, rich in history, and has fertile soil. Naturally, the island is surrounded by the sea on all four sides. Therefore, fishing remains an important industry for the island, as it has been. It is said that whaling once flourished, bringing prosperity to the island itself, and the squid caught in the Genkai Sea were landed at the port of Katsumoto, becoming a benchmark for squid prices in Japan. The catch volume influenced not only the island but also the Japanese market. Even today, fresh fish can be enjoyed at various places on the island. As will be discussed later, this too has given birth to a miraculous island.
As a side note, I heard that freshwater shrimp, hairy crabs, and eels can be caught in the island's rivers. That was also surprising.
Furthermore, the island yields abundant agricultural produce. This is unusual for an outlying island. Many outlying islands can barely sustain themselves for a week without food supplies from the mainland. News of food shortages in supermarkets and convenience stores on many outlying islands due to typhoons is not uncommon. However, Iki Island has a self-sufficiency rate of 100% (though not exact, it is said to be quite high), demonstrating its richness, even if food supplies were to stop.
There are no deer or wild boar, which are pests in agriculture, on the island (though they are said to cross the sea from surrounding small islands occasionally), and I have never seen a mole, according to Kazufumi Matsumoto of Mirai-ha Kazoku Farm. Due to its island nature, there are not many pests, making it an ideal island for agriculture.
Matsumoto, who also works as a hairdresser.
A farm built together by a husband and wife. The desire to pay attention to what we eat for a rich life, where health is paramount, is palpable.
We heard from Mr. Matsumoto of "Mirai-ha Kazoku Farm" about the island's suitability for agriculture, so here's a bit about Kazufumi and Sachiko Matsumoto of "Mirai-ha Kazoku Farm" and their endeavors.
Both were born on Iki Island and were classmates in junior high school. These two decided to work with "nature," an irreplaceable asset and resource. Wanting their children to eat healthy food, Kazufumi, while working as a hairdresser, started farming with his wife, using no pesticides, no chemical fertilizers, and no herbicides. Their desire to "make Iki Island an organic island!" is being realized by utilizing fallow land, which is increasing due to an aging population and a decline in farming. They engage in everything from land reclamation to sowing seeds and harvesting with people who can share the joy of vegetable cultivation, which they call "Kazoku" (family).
"We started with garlic. However, when we went to see the seeds, they were all from China. So, we searched and compared them, and found an heirloom variety from Ehime. We also use food waste from the island, such as the spent grain from Island Brewery's barley and pearl oyster shells, which were previously discarded, for recycling within the island. When sufficiently aged, it becomes good compost."
Now, they are gradually increasing the variety of crops they cultivate. Iki Island's organic plan is appealing. It offers a glimpse of a new circular society made possible by the island's compact size.
They were a very gentle and earnest couple, embodying the spirit of Iki Island. Their serious approach to the future of food and their continuous trial and error make it seem as though the entire Iki Island could become organic someday.
An Island Where You Can Live Without Buying Food?!
While Iki Island is said to have a rice self-sufficiency rate exceeding 100%, with exports to the mainland (though exact figures could not be confirmed), the island's richness extends beyond that. This is because bartering has been active on the island since ancient times. The morning market in Katsumoto Town still exists today, and its origins are said to stem from islanders exchanging fish and agricultural products. And this continues even now. When talking to island residents, I repeatedly heard the phrase, "I've never bought food." One person, who enjoys squid fishing, said that he catches squid in the morning, and if he catches more than he can eat, he shares it with his neighbors and receives plenty of vegetables and rice in return. The reverse is also true; he said that if he takes his harvested vegetables to someone who enjoys fishing, he receives fish.
In essence, the food needed for daily life on Iki Island can be almost entirely sourced from within the island. It is a leading region in self-sufficiency and can be called a quintessential island for local production and consumption. Perhaps because of this, currently, there are only about 100 or even 70 restaurants left on the island (with a population of around 25,000), and yet, five of them were featured in the "Michelin Guide Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki 2019 Special Edition," and there is also a prestigious "5 Pavilions Inn" in the "Michelin Guide."
With fewer than 100 restaurants (excluding snack bars, karaoke bars, etc.), six being featured in Michelin indicates that the overall quality of the unlisted establishments is also high. A place you stumble into is likely to be a good value for money.
The "5 Pavilions Inn," Iki Retreat Umi-no-Kairyu Murakami by Onko Chishin.
We have already written about "Iki Retreat Umi-no-Kairyu Murakami by Onko Chishin" in our Iki Island report, so this time, out of the approximately 100 restaurants on the island that primarily serve meals, an astonishing five were featured in the "Michelin Guide Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Saga 2019"! This is not mere coincidence; it is due to the high quality of ingredients such as fresh fish, delicious rice and vegetables, and Iki beef, reflecting the island's overall high standards. We want you to feel that Iki Island is a treasure trove of high-level cuisine by introducing these five select establishments first.
Umashima: An Iki Beef Restaurant Directly Connected to a Ranch, Located Directly in Front of Ashibe Port
Taking the jetfoil from Hakata Port at 10:20 AM, you arrive at Ashibe Port at 11:35 AM. As it's around lunchtime, "Umashima" is recommended. This establishment also has an attached butcher shop, so you can imagine the high quality of the meat. What was surprising, however, was that the Umashima ranch is run by siblings, ensuring a supply of high-quality Iki beef. In other words, it's directly from the source.
The lunch options were very reasonably priced. We had the "Umashima Lunch," a collaborative menu with Iki City, featuring thinly sliced Iki beef stir-fried with vegetables on a hot plate, served with rice, miso soup, salad, and pickles. However, the tenderness and flavor of the meat reveal its freshness and overall quality. It was simply delicious. The "Special Kalbi Set Meal" is also reasonably priced and popular, served as a grilled set meal right at your table. Enjoy the taste of Iki first in Ashibe. Savor Iki beef.
Marutatsu: Fully Booked Every Day, Unable to Visit During the Interview Period, Much to Our Regret
The discreet facade exudes the aroma of a truly special restaurant.
Regrettably, despite trying for three out of our four nights on Iki, we found "Marutatsu" fully booked each time. We can only express our frustration. Therefore, please bear with us as we share the experiences of others. In fact, the fact that it is fully booked every day, even on weekdays, speaks volumes about its high quality.
"When you come to Iki, you must try the squid. Marutatsu specializes in squid, and while their other fish dishes are also excellent, I highly recommend starting with the squid." "The sea bream chazuke made with natural sea bream is a flavor you can only find at Marutatsu. I think it's best to enjoy sashimi with sake and your favorite appetizers, and then finish with the sea bream chazuke." We heard that everything they serve is delicious. We are truly disappointed that we couldn't taste it ourselves.
Furin: An Izakaya Where You Can Drink and Stay Overnight. The Owner's Catch Determines the Day's Menu?!
Among the five Michelin-featured restaurants, "Furin" might be the most unique. The owner, Teruaki Yamashita, has a wonderful personality and creates a very relaxing atmosphere. Yamashita has loved fishing since childhood. His father runs an Iki beef restaurant next door, but he was told, "I won't let you inherit it," so he opened his own restaurant focusing on his favorite fish.
First, the assorted sashimi. The catch of the day was horse mackerel. It had a firm texture, and its deliciousness spread with every chew. The young bluefin tuna and sea bream were also full of flavor. Being able to stay overnight at the pension is also a great convenience for someone driving for an interview.
Miyuraya's Original Creations Offer a Unique Taste of Iki
Miyuraya's "Isomeshi Donburi" - a rice bowl cooked with turban shell and sea urchin, allowing you to savor the aroma of the sea.
Miyuraya gives the impression of a place where you can find almost anything you'd want to eat on Iki. It's the perfect spot to experience the taste of Iki. Among its offerings, the "sea urchin" is a popular menu item, so much so that they operate without days off during the sea urchin season. A brief overview of their diverse menu includes "Iki Beef Sirloin Steak," "Abalone Steak," and the local specialty "Hikitooshi Nabe" (hot pot). The dish that caught my eye was the "Isomeshi Donburi," a rice bowl of turban shell and sea urchin cooked together. I had it for lunch, and as soon as the lid was lifted, the aroma of the sea filled the air, which was satisfying in itself, but the taste was even more so. The sweet, chewy texture of the sea urchin rice, with the crunchy turban shell as an accent, made me finish it in no time.
Potto in Ashibe, Iki Island: Arguably One of Japan's Top Pizzerias
The final Michelin-featured establishment is "Pizzeria Potto." I visited at night and found a single light glowing in the dark road leading to Ashibe Port. Kento Hirayama took over his father's Western-style pub and transformed it into a pizzeria. He is self-taught, having not trained anywhere. Perhaps because of his self-taught approach, he has developed a unique flavor that can only be experienced here. The taste is simply, undeniably delicious!
I ordered the popular Margherita. The pizza dough, made with Italian flour and hand-shaped into a fluffy circle, thins out beautifully under the hands. It's then topped with homemade tomato sauce, basil, and mozzarella cheese, and quickly baked in an Italian pizza oven, with the pizza being rotated to ensure even cooking. This pizza crust is thin and light, yet it has a distinct flavor and chewiness. It goes down so smoothly, it's almost like drinking it. It's a place I want to visit again, and I wish I had a place like this near my home.
We've visited three more places, so we'll introduce them!
Chatting with the owner, who is knowledgeable about the island, will make your Iki Island trip even more enjoyable.
Initially a cafe, "Café & Zakka K's" is a cozy cafe run by the sisters Tomosato and Yokoyama, who are passionate about Iki Island. It also houses a雑貨 shop, or rather, their mother ran the雑貨 shop, and they took it over, expanding it to include the cafe they had always wanted. In the summer, they offer a variety of cold treats. As they are big proponents of Iki Island, stopping by K's first upon arrival and getting recommendations for the island will undoubtedly lead to a fulfilling island life!
Another place is "Kadomaru." It has a refined exterior, but the interior is bright and welcoming, making it a comfortable place to drink alone. While focusing on fish, they also offer meat dishes, creating a balanced menu of seafood and meat. The chef creatively prepares a wide range of dishes, from Japanese to Italian. With such a diverse menu, it gives the impression that you can savor Iki Island's cuisine all in one place. The chef and his wife are friendly and share tips on how to enjoy the island. They also seem to enjoy casual conversation, making it a space where you can spend fulfilling time while enjoying delicious food.
Another place is "Kaoru." This is a deeply local izakaya that locals prefer not to reveal. When I told people I met that I had been to "Kaoru," they would say, "That's a really deep cut," or "Everyone on the island knows that place." It's no exaggeration to say it's a beloved spot by the islanders.
Some say it's the number one place they don't want to reveal. If an outsider visits this place, they can surely become a stranger, and above all, it's delicious, and just by observing the locals' interactions, you can glimpse another side of the island and its daily life.
Excellent for Dining, Even Better for Staying: "Shima Yado Ito & Café Ito" is a Rising Star on Iki Island
"Shima Yado Ito" is a guesthouse, cafe, and restaurant. It's a luxurious space renovated from an old traditional house. It is run by the couple Hisashi and Masumi Masuda. Hisashi is the chef, and Masumi is the pastry chef. The full course from main dishes to desserts can only be described as exquisite. They focus on Iki ingredients such as fish caught around the island, locally grown vegetables, and game, utilizing their natural flavors and aromas. The inn has three rooms, with the large room on the second floor, featuring thick beams in the ceiling of the 60-year-old traditional house, being particularly luxurious.
The couple are immigrants to Iki Island. Hisashi visited Iki Island and decided to move there. At the time, he was also considering overseas options, which highlights the island's immense appeal. Both have gentle and soft personalities. The seamless combination of Hisashi creating the dishes and Masumi assisting with plate preparation and arrangement is superb! This flow makes the delicious drinks and food even more enjoyable. Time seems to melt away, leaving you with a sense of calm. It was our last night on Iki Island, but it was the perfect dinner. It's worth visiting Iki Island just to eat this.
The photos show the course menu from when I visited.
Finally, I met an interesting person whom I would like to introduce. His name is Hiroaki Honda. He was formerly an executive at a real estate company in Tokyo, then established his own company and became its representative director. In 2016, he was awarded the "Konju Hosho" (Blue Ribbon Medal). While his career is impressive, his life on Iki Island is in a trailer house! It was custom-ordered from America, and then transported from Yokohama to Iki Island by sea.
His family remains in Tokyo, and he lives alone on the island. For OPENERS readers, wouldn't living in a trailer house be one of their dreams? However, it seems there were considerable challenges, including the long journey to Iki Island (for the trailer house alone), installing a septic tank, connecting electricity and water, and securing the vehicle itself, all of which required more work and money than expected.
"Shizu Usami, a female calligrapher and the fourth-generation president of a soy sauce brewery that has been in business for 100 years in Kitakyushu, who wrote the logo 'Iki' for 'Resort Office,' told me, 'Iki is beautiful and a wonderful place, so please come visit sometime.' When I came, I found it to be a truly great place, and since I was considering moving to Chiba or Shizuoka at the time, I decided without hesitation to move here!"
Nevertheless, it's a trailer house. Isn't this a rather stylish way to live? Living with two beloved cats and two rescued cats, growing vegetables, and gazing at the sea – it's truly a life of leisure. We are incredibly envious.
