In November 2023, I participated in a press tour organized by Tourism New Zealand. This was my second trip to New Zealand. When I mention going to or having been to New Zealand, nine times out of ten, people who have traveled there ask, "North Island? South Island? Where did you go?" Once you visit, you understand why they ask. New Zealand's cities each possess such distinct personalities, more so than in other countries, that it naturally prompts such questions.

Over the next three installments, I will introduce this press tour. First, I'd like to provide an overview of New Zealand as a country, and then discuss each city, focusing on the places I visited.

It is said that the Maori people migrated from Polynesia and settled in New Zealand, which was originally uninhabited, around the 8th to 9th centuries. Then, in 1769, the British explorer James Cook became the first European to land in New Zealand. He charted the coast and inscribed the name "New Zealand" upon it.

The country covers an area of 270,334 square kilometers, about three-quarters the size of Japan, with a population of approximately 5.2 million. Fundamentally, New Zealand consists of several islands, primarily the North Island and the South Island. As many imagine, it is a treasure trove of natural beauty and has served as a filming location for numerous movies, including "The Lord of the Rings," "The Chronicles of Narnia," "The Hobbit," and "The Piano."

The food and wine are also delicious. Broadly speaking, the North Island is home to most government institutions and offers a pleasant blend of urban life and nature. The South Island retains more untouched wilderness and offers dynamic landscapes that truly embody the essence of "New Zealand!" Unlike the North Island, it also features many European-style towns, with Christchurch, in particular, retaining a strong British character. The population is overwhelmingly concentrated on the North Island, with about 75 percent of New Zealand's residents living there.

Auckland, the country's largest city, is located in the northern part of the North Island. It is New Zealand's main international gateway and is home to one-third of the country's population. Due to its coastal location, it has long prospered as a major commercial port in the Oceania region and is affectionately known as the "City of Sails" because of the many yachts docked there. With numerous stylish shops and restaurants, it's a delightful city for a stroll. Attractions abound, including the Sky Tower, the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere, and the "All Blacks Experience," which opened in 2020.

Before boarding my return flight to Tokyo, I took advantage of a brief moment to visit Waiheke Island, a short 40-minute ferry ride from Auckland. With a population of about 8,000 people on an island covering approximately 92 square kilometers, Waiheke Island is a resort destination for Aucklanders seeking relaxation. The island boasts over 30 wineries, thanks to its suitable climate with temperature variations and well-draining soil ideal for grape cultivation.

This time, due to time constraints, I opted for a helicopter. As soon as we took off from Auckland, we flew over the sparkling emerald waters bathed in sunlight, and in no time, we landed on the lush green Waiheke Island. We landed at "Stonyridge Vineyard," which has a helipad amidst its vineyards. The people having lunch at the winery's restaurant looked up, wondering who had arrived. I felt a little embarrassed to say, "Just a Japanese journalist," but it wasn't an unpleasant feeling. A winery staff member offered me a glass of sparkling wine, which I savored while feeling a sense of elation, both physically and mentally.

"Stonyridge Vineyard" is one of New Zealand's premier wineries, not just on Waiheke Island, but recognized globally, even featured by the British newspaper The Guardian as one of the "Top 10 Wineries to Visit in the World." The wine that put the island on the map is "Larose," a blend primarily of Cabernet. I encourage you to look up its price; among Waiheke's generally affordable wines, it is quite expensive. Enjoying lunch on the terrace overlooking the vineyards while sipping this Larose is the ultimate indulgence for a wine lover.

Waiheke Island has several other wineries with attached restaurants. "Tantalus Estate," located near "Stonyridge Vineyard," is committed to organic farming and plants wild grasses over 3,000 square meters to control pests. Their craft beer, brewed at the attached brewery, was also delicious. There are also tours available to visit wineries on the island.

Wellington, the capital city, is located at the southern tip of the North Island. It's a simple, yet endearing city, perhaps best described as "less bustling than Auckland." It is also considered the heart of New Zealand's art and culture and is known as a filming location for "The Lord of the Rings." This is because Peter Jackson, the director of "The Lord of the Rings" and its prequel "The Hobbit," hails from Wellington. His company, Weta, has its headquarters in the Miramar district, and there you can find the "Weta Workshop Experience," a complex where you can glimpse behind the scenes of Weta's filmmaking. Creators lead tours of the studio, and on the day I visited, it was bustling with film fans of all ages.

The symbol of Wellington is undoubtedly the "Wellington Cable Car," with its iconic red carriages, which has been operating for over 100 years since its opening in 1902. It connects the city center to the residential area of Kelburn, situated on a steep hill. The route is 609 meters long and takes about 5 minutes one way. The fare is inexpensive, making it a recommended experience.

What left the most lasting impression on me in Wellington was "Zealandia Ecosanctuary Te Mara a Tāne," a sanctuary for native New Zealand forest and wildlife, located just a 5-minute shuttle bus ride from the cable car's upper terminus. Within the fenced area, designed to keep out pests, rare native animals roam freely. Simply walking around is therapeutic, but joining a guided tour is invaluable as it reveals rare birds and plants that might otherwise go unnoticed. It's also said that you might encounter New Zealand's national bird, the kiwi, during dusk or at night (I wish I had seen one!).

I would also like to revisit "Hillside Kitchen & Cellar," a restaurant I stopped at for dinner in Wellington, should the opportunity arise. It champions sustainability and ethics, and notably, it is a restaurant that does not serve meat. The dishes, such as soup made from vegetable scraps and sourdough fermented with homemade yeast, each have a story and are delicious. The natural wines served alongside the subtly flavored dishes were also exceptional. Most importantly, all the guests dining there seemed genuinely happy.

Let's turn our attention to the South Island. During this tour, after transferring to a domestic flight in Auckland, the first city I visited was Christchurch, the second-largest city in New Zealand and the largest on the South Island.

Due to its historical background, Christchurch is often described as "the most English city outside of England." Indeed, with its English-style parks and gardens, and stately Gothic architecture, it exudes a distinctly British charm! The "Isaac Theatre Royal," built in 1908, is the only Edwardian-style building in New Zealand still in active use today. Known for its abundant greenery, it is also called the "Garden City," a truly pleasant place.

Trams, restored from historic vehicles, run through the city. The entire loop is 2.5 kilometers and takes about 25 minutes, so it's recommended to take a tram ride around the city first before starting your sightseeing. For dinner, the "Tramway Restaurant" offers a dining experience while traveling through the city on a tram.

Another must-mention when discussing the South Island is Queenstown. Although I didn't visit this time, the city, named "a beautiful town fit for Queen Victoria to live in," has been the filming location for many movies. It's understandable why this was the first destination tourists returned to after the pandemic! The options for activities leveraging its magnificent nature are vast, including trekking in the summer and skiing, snowboarding, and trekking courses in the winter.

Finally, I'd like to mention Air New Zealand (NZ), which I used for this trip. As mentioned at the beginning, Auckland, the largest city on the North Island, serves as New Zealand's main international gateway. NZ is the only airline operating direct flights from Japan to New Zealand, connecting Tokyo Narita Airport and Auckland in approximately 10.5 hours. From Auckland, you can connect to over 20 domestic cities, including Christchurch, Wellington, and Queenstown.

NZ's distinctive black aircraft, reminiscent of the All Blacks, New Zealand's national rugby team, was also ranked first in the "World's Safest Airlines 2024" ranking. The in-flight meals are also delicious. Furthermore, they offer "Skycouch," an economy class seating option where a row of three seats can be converted into a flat surface for sleeping. Incidentally, while All Nippon Airways (ANA) introduced a similar couch-style seat called "ANA Couch" on its A380 flights to Honolulu from Narita, NZ was the first airline in the world to introduce this style of seating in 2011. Airlines that have adopted this service, including ANA, have a licensing agreement with NZ.

Additionally, within the 2024 fiscal year, they plan to introduce "Skynest," a three-tiered bunk bed that can be booked by the hour and allows passengers to lie down and sleep, in the economy class of some routes. They have also announced the launch of "Business Premier Luxe," which offers enhanced privacy by closing a door, also initially on select routes. NZ continues to impress with its constant evolution, making it an airline to watch.

The second part of our New Zealand travelogue will feature Kaikoura, a city that left a particularly memorable impression on this trip (to be continued).

With the cooperation of
Tourism New Zealand
https://www.newzealand.com/jp/
Air New Zealand
https://www.airnewzealand.jp/