A Winemaker's Dinner at Hotel Indigo Karuizawa and VILLAESTA WINERY | TRAVEL
TRAVEL | Hotel Indigo Karuizawa
A Special Menu for One Night Only, Paired with Select Nagano Wines Grown in Rich Soil
Just an hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen. Karuizawa, one of Japan's premier resort towns, is surrounded by majestic nature and steeped in both Eastern and Western culture and art, attracting visitors from Japan and abroad year-round. Hotel Indigo Karuizawa, which opened in February 2022, is located in this area, brimming with a calm yet powerful and creative energy. The concept of Hotel Indigo is 'Neighborhood Story,' valuing local experiences that allow guests to discover and connect with the authentic, previously unknown charms and stories of the area.
A special one-night-only dinner, 'Winemaker's Dinner,' was held at Hotel Indigo Karuizawa, featuring select Nagano wines paired with wood-fired grill dishes. Conceived with the desire to draw people to Nagano Prefecture specifically for its wine, this event fostered a salon-like atmosphere, characteristic of Karuizawa, where guests could converse with winemakers about the charm and depth of wine. Sommelier Mr. Ueno personally visited the winery to propose the collaboration, which was then realized. This year, it was held four times, and I participated in the fourth event, a winemaker's dinner in collaboration with 'VILLAESTA WINERY'.
VILLAESTA WINERY is located atop a hill at an altitude of 850 meters in Tōmi City, in the northeastern part of Nagano Prefecture, within an area known as the Chikuma River Wine Valley. Tōmi City was certified as the first 'Wine Special Zone' in Nagano Prefecture in 2008. The Chikuma River flows from south to north, meandering as its name suggests, and has nurtured well-draining, fertile soil along its banks. This area is one of Japan's driest regions. With long hours of sunshine, a cool climate, and significant temperature differences due to being surrounded by mountains, it provides ideal conditions for cultivating wine grapes. It is particularly suited for European varietals such as Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. Grapes carefully cultivated in the field, embracing the blessings of sun, soil, water, and wind, are then meticulously fermented to produce clean, concentrated wines with exquisite balance in acidity, color, and sugar content. Many have been captivated by this land, leading to the recent establishment of numerous wineries and vineyards. It has now become a major production area, home to over 70 producers. VILLAESTA WINERY began winemaking in 2003 and has since earned numerous accolades, including the highest gold medal at the Japan Wine Competition. Its wines have been served to world leaders at the 2008 Hokkaido Toyako Summit and the 2016 Ise-Shima Summit, and it is now highly regarded internationally as a premium Japanese wine.
VILLAESTA WINERY was founded by Tamamura Toyoo, an essayist and painter who is the owner, and Toru Konishi, the current representative director and head of viticulture and winemaking. The story began in 1991 when Tamamura, who had moved to Tōmi City for health reasons, was captivated by the landscape and decided to cultivate the land, planting grapevines. Konishi, who had worked with Tamamura at TaKaRa Shusei Seikatsu Bunka Kenkyujo on the winery's construction plan, became the head of viticulture and winemaking to launch the project. Konishi participated in the Winemaker's Dinner, sharing insights into the charm, dedication, passion, and enjoyment of Nagano wines while guests savored the various wines produced by VILLAESTA WINERY.
The wines served that day were five varieties: VILLAESTA Cider, Pinot Gris 2022, Pinot Noir Rosé 2022, Vignerons Reserve Chardonnay 2021, and Vignerons Reserve Merlot 2020. The labels were designed by Tamamura himself. Accompanying these were a special one-day-only menu created exclusively for the wines of the evening. While wine is often paired with food, it is a rare luxury to have dishes expertly paired with wine as the central focus.
The toast was with VILLAESTA Cider. The crisp cider, with its rich aroma of Nagano-grown apples, stimulated the appetite from within. The first amuse-bouche was a curry-flavored crumble. This amuse was served with the cider. The crisp cider washed down the substantial and satisfying amuse, settling the stomach slightly.
Next was the antipasto misto. Expressing the essence of Nagano in winter, the dish's rich vegetable and sauce flavors were beautifully complemented by either the robust Pinot Gris or the elegant and delicate Pinot Noir Rosé. Both pairings offered a delightful and distinct harmony.
The pasta dish was linguine with mussels and tomato. Here, the flagship Vignerons Reserve Chardonnay 2021, also served at the summit, made its appearance. Aged for approximately seven months in barrels, it offered a rich volume of aromas from both the grapes and the oak, with a pleasant acidity.
The main course was grilled Tateshina beef. Beyond the excellent quality of the meat and its perfect cooking, the accompanying burdock root and arugula were also rich in flavor. Paired with this was the Vignerons Reserve Merlot 2020. Konishi mentioned that ideally, it would be aged for about five years, but this Merlot, fermented with its skins and seeds ('maceration fermentation') and then aged in oak barrels, possessed a deep and robust character. It mingled beautifully with the succulent ribeye, which was both light and tender.
Indeed, wine is exceptional when enjoyed alongside dishes made with the rich local ingredients, after hearing directly from the producers about their background, insights, and passion. The inspiration born from the stimulation of a neighborhood experience undoubtedly enriches life. The Winemaker's Dinner at Hotel Indigo Karuizawa, offering a taste of Nagano Prefecture's bounty in the superb setting of Karuizawa, is scheduled to be held again in 2024. We eagerly anticipate it.
2024 Winemaker's Dinner Schedule Friday, March 8 Manz Wine Komoro Winery Representative: Mr. Dai Shimazaki
Friday, June 14 VinVie (Matsukawa Town, Shimoina District) Head Winemaker: Mr. Takeshi Takemura
Friday, July 5 Sunsun Winery (Shiojiri City) Head Winemaker: Mr. Shogo Tamura
Friday, November 22 Château Mercian椀子 (Wanko) Winery Head Winemaker: Mr. Takayuki Tamura
